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Spire nut for interior door handle


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Last time I fitted pull handles to a TR door I used this sort of thing from my drawer of many oddments

 

Peter W

PS also used to hold headlamp buckets in.

 

A71BF49D-FB31-47C8-83A4-5D6D762CDC41.jpeg

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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Try passing a 3 foot length of thin wire in one square hole , fed onto it the two clip nuts  back to back, then pass the wire back out the other square hole.

pull the two ends of the wire so the clip nuts are just in contact with the inside of the door frame.   Clamp the wire so the clip nuts remain where they are and cannot drop into the well of the door.

Now start fiddling to fit the things.  Each time they spring out they will still be near to where you want them.   
As Roger says.  Get one leg of the clip in the Door frame then squeeze and tease the other leg in.

 

when done remove wire.
Cheers

Peter W

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I filed down a pair of M4 captive (cage) nuts they need a couple of ml to get them to fit in front to back - I also took the square nut out of the cage and filed that down so I could squeeze the cage enough to get it to fit in the square hole in the door frame.

Wind window down, remove the weather strips and fiddle! I used a small magnetic pick up to stop me dropping it into the door whilst I got it in place and pressed it in with my fingers. Went ok on passenger side and psyching myself up for the drivers door!

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An update:

The original 8/32 gage nut are no longer supplied. Oddly the same part number is used on the bumpers but is a significantly larger size!

Following RogerH's tip about the likely thread size I lashed out a whole £4.95 on Ebay and re-cut the threads for the 4A door handles that had been butchered by someone screwing them on with woods crews into the original cage nuts.

Buoyed by my success I thought about the M4 cage nuts I'd used to fit the same handles on the 6 by filing down to fit the apertures in the door frame as in Peter's photo (so I could use the cheaper repro door tops to replace the 20 year old originals that had disintegrated and are over £100 each). M4s are ideal in terms of size to recut with the 8/32 tap. So now held on with proper TR size screws! 4A door handles appear to be the same as fitted to many other cars such as the Elans and dare I say it MGs and are much cheaper on Ebay than the TR parts suppliers.

This time I used the slide it down the wire technique which takes away the risk of it dropping into the door and with it the need to fully remove the door cards.

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11 minutes ago, RogerH said:

Hi Peter,

I'll take my door card off tomorrow and see what is happening.

 

Roger

Roger please don’t go to that trouble, it’s a bit fiddly.

I Have looked at my repair manual and it looks ok.

I think the new spring is pushing door card away. (Passenger side)

the driver’s door card was flat before I removed it, and the mechanism is the same but handed.

 

 

BFF5C6D8-BB85-4860-856C-37CA62EAE588.jpeg

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12 minutes ago, stillp said:

That cranked bit looks awfully close to the top, but maybe it's different on the 4A - I guess the photo is your TR5?

Pete

Yes but the problem is the spring, turning it around or cutting it will probably solve the problem

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