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String Theory (tracking)


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Following my complete upgrade and rebuild of my 3a front suspension I decided to track the front end. For the past few seasons I have run the front wheels parallel, so no toe in or out.

i have struggled in the past as I don’t have turning plates that allow the front tyres to move with fine adjustment. 
 

so I cut up some old thick Perspex into 4 bits, 2 for each side. I used clean engine oil between 2 sheets to allow the slip and lowered the front wheels on to them. Easier than trying to drive on. They spread a little With the camber.

I'm pleased to say it worked really well you could easily see the fine movement when turning the tie rod on each side by hand (Ensuring the steering wheel stays central) 
 

I get the strings Parallel  by equal measurement off the front and rear of the rear wheel rims.( this is the time consuming bit !) it didn’t work on a previous set of steel wheels as there was a slight buckle.

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Two thoughts on this method.

The rear track is ½" wider than the front  (3' 9" & 3' 9½")

Will your suspension mods have changed the front track at the point of measuring ?

Re the 2nd point, should be ok if the string was at the same height as the trunnion pivot, as that won't have changed.

Bob.

P.S.  I used a laser pen attached to a frame which magnetically stuck to the front wheels, & pointed it at a board attached to the rear wheels with a line of the same offset to the rim. I also forgot about the ½" difference !  must re-check sometime.

Edited by Lebro
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It’s all relative Bob I don’t use the rear wheel measurements to transfer to the front. 
 

the rear wheel rims are measured and be equal front and back of the rim at the string height (mid wheel)

then at the front I just adjust so the front and rear of the rim has the same measurement as each other to the string. This gives me my parallel.

Measurement using the tail of vernier calipers 

gets me quite close.

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1 minute ago, Lebro said:

Don't you need two of them ?

Bob

No .

Stuart.

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