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Original handbrake cable


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I have an original handbrake cable setup - the rubber boots have perished but that's no problem as I've found some new boots that fit perfectly. My question is this- this cable has no access for lubrication--my cable is in excellent condition and not rusted up inside or frayed so I'm going to reuse it but wonder how these cables get lubricated or is it the same principle as a bicycle cable which doesn't get lubricated as its sealed. Is it possible or necessary to fit a grease nipple like the Morris handbrake had or am I worrying about nothing?? As always your learned replies are gratefully received. 

 

Michael

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Hi Michael,

I would oil them (best done with cable vertical, drip oil on inner cable and move inner cable in and out). Do not use thick oil or the greasy sticky chain lubricant from a rattle can as this will increase resistance, especially when cold. The oil lubricates and prevents corrosion.

Waldi

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43 minutes ago, michaeldavis39 said:

I have an original handbrake cable setup - the rubber boots have perished but that's no problem as I've found some new boots that fit perfectly. My question is this- this cable has no access for lubrication--my cable is in excellent condition and not rusted up inside or frayed so I'm going to reuse it but wonder how these cables get lubricated or is it the same principle as a bicycle cable which doesn't get lubricated as its sealed. Is it possible or necessary to fit a grease nipple like the Morris handbrake had or am I worrying about nothing?? As always your learned replies are gratefully received. 

 

Michael

Hi Michael

I have always use a motor cycle cable oiler, mine is over 50 years old and still works. But if you renew you hand brake cable, only buy the German Market type which has a PVC jacket on which cuts down the rusting.

Bruce.

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If you can find a way of lubricating that's fine.  Maybe you could soak it in a vat of something.

Mine looked perfect in every respect and seemed to slide ok but I was amazed at the significant difference it made when I installed a new one.

It's 40 or 50 years old and never been lubricated - probably.  I don't normally recommend new over Stanpart, but in this case - fit a new one.

What's a motor cycle cable oiler Bruce?

Jerry

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The cables I've got may not be 40 or 50 years old as I've found evidence of a previous restore in the eighties. The cables are in no way rusted at all, not frayed and slide easily inside the sleeve--my car was a California car originally which ended up in Arizona so maybe it didn't have a hard life on USA roads--I removed a random stud from each trailing arm and the threads were perfect so didn't make any alterations to those as there was no need to - I just locktited them back in. I'm getting right into this chassis rebuild now taking lots of advice from here so thanks very much. 

 

Michael

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Here is a simple way to lubricate the cable using a plastic bag that you secure to the outer casing the turn inside out and fill with oil.  

https://www.motorcyclistonline.com/motorcycle-tech-tips-bike-maintenance-how-to-lube-lubricate-motorcycle-cables-mc-garage-video/

 

 

Cheers

Peter W
PS I use the finger of a rubber glove as the reservoir.

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On 5/27/2020 at 12:12 PM, jerrytr5 said:

If you can find a way of lubricating that's fine.  Maybe you could soak it in a vat of something.

Mine looked perfect in every respect and seemed to slide ok but I was amazed at the significant difference it made when I installed a new one.

It's 40 or 50 years old and never been lubricated - probably.  I don't normally recommend new over Stanpart, but in this case - fit a new one.

What's a motor cycle cable oiler Bruce?

Jerry

One of these Cable oiler

Stuart.

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On 5/27/2020 at 12:12 PM, jerrytr5 said:

If you can find a way of lubricating that's fine.  Maybe you could soak it in a vat of something.

Mine looked perfect in every respect and seemed to slide ok but I was amazed at the significant difference it made when I installed a new one.

It's 40 or 50 years old and never been lubricated - probably.  I don't normally recommend new over Stanpart, but in this case - fit a new one.

What's a motor cycle cable oiler Bruce?

Jerry

The cables lose their stretch over time. When you pull the hadbrake on you pull it on a few clicks - the clicks being teeth on a ratchet, with a new cable the elasticity of the cable keeps the tension as it drops on to the last tooth it clicked past.  With an old cable the lack of elasticity means the tension drops just a tiny bit as it relaxes onto the to the tooth. No amount of lubrication will get the elasticity back.

By all means lubricate a good cable but it may not be worth the effort if it's getting on say 10 or 15 years old.

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12 hours ago, michaeldavis39 said:

So where sells a decent handbrake cable as I've heard such bad reports of repro parts--even experienced it myself annoyingly. 

 

Michael

TR Shop ones are fine.

Stuart.

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On 5/27/2020 at 12:12 PM, jerrytr5 said:

If you can find a way of lubricating that's fine.  Maybe you could soak it in a vat of something.

Mine looked perfect in every respect and seemed to slide ok but I was amazed at the significant difference it made when I installed a new one.

It's 40 or 50 years old and never been lubricated - probably.  I don't normally recommend new over Stanpart, but in this case - fit a new one.

What's a motor cycle cable oiler Bruce?

Jerry

Hi Jerry,

A motor cycle cable oiler is a alum cylinder with a gland seal and cap at one end which goes over the cable jacket and is sealed by screwing the cap down You then fill the cylinder with oil. I use 3 in one with PTFE. screw the top cap on, connect a cycle pump on to the top and pump. That forces the oil straight down the inside of the cable. As I have a German market hand break cable with a PVC jacket this means I get a good seal but the original did not and leaks like a sieve. There is a case to use heat shrink over the standard one to seal out the dirt and grim.

Bruce

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1 hour ago, astontr6 said:

Hi Jerry,

A motor cycle cable oiler is a alum cylinder with a gland seal and cap at one end which goes over the cable jacket and is sealed by screwing the cap down You then fill the cylinder with oil. I use 3 in one with PTFE. screw the top cap on, connect a cycle pump on to the top and pump. That forces the oil straight down the inside of the cable. As I have a German market hand break cable with a PVC jacket this means I get a good seal but the original did not and leaks like a sieve. There is a case to use heat shrink over the standard one to seal out the dirt and grim.

Bruce

I did post a link to one further up this thread.

Stuart.

 

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