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Hi Stephen, just measured it, the diameter of the hole in the fixed bracket is 15mm, and the diameter of my plunger/pin is 13mm so there is very little room for error in alignment, if and when you get the front of the bonnet free then you will have to carefully move the bonnet through all points of the compass very small amounts with the latch held open and someone pushing down and up at the pin end until the pin is free and the spring can allow the bonnet to pop up.

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What initially was a depressing fault has turned into a bonding and fault finding session with my 15 year old son, so actually enjoying the process.  “When the wind blows, don’t just build shelter, al

So, you're not happy about the Triumph community - if you haven't already done so, and it appears you haven't since March 2016, then why not join the TR Register and add your voice to the club's suppl

FWIW the new repro catches have been strengthened in the area where the hook mounts to the spring plate, the hook on the receiving catch on the bulkhead may need bending forward a little so they all l

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7 hours ago, Rob Salisbury said:

Hi Stephen, just measured it, the diameter of the hole in the fixed bracket is 15mm, and the diameter of my plunger/pin is 13mm so there is very little room for error in alignment, if and when you get the front of the bonnet free then you will have to carefully move the bonnet through all points of the compass very small amounts with the latch held open and someone pushing down and up at the pin end until the pin is free and the spring can allow the bonnet to pop up.

Thank you, we have the front four bolts on each side of the hinges off.  Next weekend we’ll start the next part of the process.

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6 hours ago, jimcwestie said:

I would still be tempted to try a glass suction puller before I went to the lengths of trying to dismantle anything or drilling holes.

 

We managed to get a nylon clothes rope underneath the bonnet and tugged it every which way with no joy.  Also we managed to get the endoscope right next to the place where the latch releases, and something just doesn’t look right.  Bonnet hinges are released, we’ll see what next weekend brings.

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Just wanted to update you that the fro t grill is off, note to self, need a new front grill.  We have removed the four bolts that hold the bonnet, please note this, someone else told me only three, but there’s actually four.  Not a nice job but not massively difficult, just a bit painy.  We called it a day at that, and since I’m super busy at work next week another weekend job.

and, from the endoscope pictures, we managed to get right next to the latch, which was moving ok, but there’s something a bit weird about the latch, looks a bit like it’s damaged and leaving part inside the hole and hence note releasing correctly.  Maybe that’s why the previous owner left the bonnet plunger bolts to compensate for that.

Anyway, more to follow next week and again I’ll update next weekend on what I find.

96D362E3-BAB8-4E07-8673-3B8734C560D1.jpeg

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I've learned to be careful about changing PO modifications, there's generally a now unknown/forgotten  reason behind them. Still I would have thought replacing a dodgy bonnet latch would have been a high priority fix , given the TR6 community's collective bad experiences with them.

Good luck. Hopefully you can lift the bonnet enough to get at the latch.

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5 hours ago, Mike C said:

I've learned to be careful about changing PO modifications, there's generally a now unknown/forgotten  reason behind them. Still I would have thought replacing a dodgy bonnet latch would have been a high priority fix , given the TR6 community's collective bad experiences with them.

Good luck. Hopefully you can lift the bonnet enough to get at the latch.

What initially was a depressing fault has turned into a bonding and fault finding session with my 15 year old son, so actually enjoying the process.  “When the wind blows, don’t just build shelter, also build windmills”.  That’s been my windmill, closer to my son, it was really cool as he helped me with the digital stuff and I showed him some mechanical stuff, we’re both learning, which is cool, right ?

Stephen

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43 minutes ago, Scotland Director said:

What initially was a depressing fault has turned into a bonding and fault finding session with my 15 year old son, so actually enjoying the process.  “When the wind blows, don’t just build shelter, also build windmills”.  That’s been my windmill, closer to my son, it was really cool as he helped me with the digital stuff and I showed him some mechanical stuff, we’re both learning, which is cool, right ?

Stephen

Priceless. Many Dad's have sought to build a bridge to their son like your's and many have failed.

With my Dad it was helping him fix  tractors on the farm. Most people these days don't live on farms with tractors but I'll bet your now glad you've got the TR6, even though it might have occasional problems. 

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9 hours ago, Scotland Director said:

Next weekend we’ll start the next part of the process.

Noooo! You mean we've all got to wait a week to find out what happened. :o

It's great you've got a far as you have though and taken it as a good opportunity to spend time with your son. 

Be interested to know how you got the grille out and the steps to get to this point. 

Good luck for the weekend. 

Gareth

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12 hours ago, Scotland Director said:

Just wanted to update you that the fro t grill is off, note to self, need a new front grill.  We have removed the four bolts that hold the bonnet, please note this, someone else told me only three, but there’s actually four.  Not a nice job but not massively difficult, just a bit painy.  We called it a day at that, and since I’m super busy at work next week another weekend job.

and, from the endoscope pictures, we managed to get right next to the latch, which was moving ok, but there’s something a bit weird about the latch, looks a bit like it’s damaged and leaving part inside the hole and hence note releasing correctly.  Maybe that’s why the previous owner left the bonnet plunger bolts to compensate for that.

Anyway, more to follow next week and again I’ll update next weekend on what I find.

96D362E3-BAB8-4E07-8673-3B8734C560D1.jpeg

If youve removed the bolts under the bonnet where the hinge joins it then thats still not going to help as theres two more that are on the outer leg of the bracket and you will really struggle to get them undone. Better off undoing the two on the inner wing where the hinge affixes to.

Stuart.

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59 minutes ago, stuart said:

If youve removed the bolts under the bonnet where the hinge joins it then thats still not going to help as theres two more that are on the outer leg of the bracket and you will really struggle to get them undone. Better off undoing the two on the inner wing where the hinge affixes to.

Stuart.

Yep and that will test the friendship when trying to refit sounds like he has one of the duff repro catches 

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Having removed the hinge bolts how high can you lift the bonnet? if you can get a length of wood or flat metal is it possible to slide it over the manifolds and under the front of the latch agaist the striker/cone and move it, as it probably only needs a mm or two maybe at the same time someone pulling the cable. Might be the manifolds are too high not sure from memory. In my case a very weak spring on an aftermarket part did not help. Good luck.

 

Rob

 

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Hi Stephen, If you do a Google search on the Triumph No. 710592 you will get some clear pictures of the latch bracket and get a better idea of what you are dealing with and what may have gone wrong, as you may see from below there is a short tube into which the pin/plunger goes moving the sprung latch as it goes, the spring then holds it up against the latch and remains until the cable is pulled. Now two things might have happened, the pin is stuck in the slot that the latch uses, or the pin may have gone to the bottom of the tube and is stuck there, either way it's going to be tricky to release the pin, and this is where your camera will be really useful, ..... just a heads up, that slot for the latch is towards the bulkhead, so pulling the bonnet forward may release it so long as the latch is fully open.

Cheers Rob

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7 hours ago, stuart said:

If youve removed the bolts under the bonnet where the hinge joins it then thats still not going to help as theres two more that are on the outer leg of the bracket and you will really struggle to get them undone. Better off undoing the two on the inner wing where the hinge affixes to.

Stuart.

Hi Stuart 

Think he said he'd removed all four it was me who said three I'd forgotten about the two on the sides:unsure:. Will be interesting to see if it gives in now and opens fingers crossed.

Andy

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47 minutes ago, Rob Salisbury said:

Hi Stephen, If you do a Google search on the Triumph No. 710592 you will get some clear pictures of the latch bracket and get a better idea of what you are dealing with and what may have gone wrong, as you may see from below there is a short tube into which the pin/plunger goes moving the sprung latch as it goes, the spring then holds it up against the latch and remains until the cable is pulled. Now two things might have happened, the pin is stuck in the slot that the latch uses, or the pin may have gone to the bottom of the tube and is stuck there, either way it's going to be tricky to release the pin, and this is where your camera will be really useful, ..... just a heads up, that slot for the latch is towards the bulkhead, so pulling the bonnet forward may release it so long as the latch is fully open.

Cheers Rob

Every day is a school day :D

I can see what you mean about the pin catching in the slot. That might also explain why the cable release does not spring back on its own as the slot might be blocked by the pin. If this is the problem then I agree, the bonnet needs pulling forwards.

If it has gone to the bottom of the tube that is a very long way. I wouldn't want to have to sort that problem out. Might be an angle grinder job :o

I am seriously thinking about removing the catch from my 6 and just tying the bonnet down with a bit of rope. 

Richard

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Hi Richard, it might be that my Triumph original bracket (TR4A 1965) is different from a later 6 bracket (same part No. is given for both these days) but but my pin only needs to move a few mm downwards to reach the end of the tube, this is all very useful information for me as I will soon be re-fitting my brand new bonnet, fore warned is fore armed as they say!! ..... Maybe the rope trick is a better bet!! 

Cheers Rob 

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Yet to fit mine as well which is some time away but while its a bare shell I think I'll cut a round 30mm hole at the rear through the bulkhead and fit a rubber grommet just in case given the grief Stephen's going through I'm not sure I'd be quite as laid back!

Removing a bit of dash etc would seem an easier option!

Andy 

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I'm surprised at all this bonnet catch shinanegans, I'm restoring my car and the bonnet catch hasn't been fitted yet- has someone got a definitive answer as to the best way to align this with the spring part?? Or should I too go down the piece of rope road as others have jokingly mentioned?? 

Michael

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I'm thinking get the bonnet fully aligned on the car and the catch pin at the other end of the garden!!, then , with cargo straps ready under the bonnet, introduce the pin and fixing plate but without the spring, masking tape over the hole in the bracket and gently lower onto the tape to get an idea of potential alignment, adjust accordingly, bias slightly away from the latch(towards the front of the car) finally fix the plate and check the pin hasn't moved, then spring on, latch fixed open gently lower the bonnet onto the bracket (I'm going to extend my tube so the pin can never become trapped at the bottom) and see if it will come up again!!   ... All good, release the latch and see if it works!!, just final height adjustment needed.

Well that's the theory!!

Leather straps and buckles maybe a better look!!

Cheers Rob

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 I was looking Austin Healey Le Mans style at when my bonnet kept springing open, but my problem was caused by trying to used the latch to "square  up" the bonnet when it closed. Once I accepted that there should be no force on the catch when it closed my springing open problem went away.

 

 

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On 5/31/2020 at 4:16 PM, jimcwestie said:

I would still be tempted to try a glass suction puller before I went to the lengths of trying to dismantle anything or drilling holes.

 

Hi Jim,

I have to agree with you! Years ago a TR owner near me had this problem. The cable was still working the latch, had not broken but the pin spring had broken one of its coils and had collapsed and could not push the bonnet up. They had to fashion up a hook and enter it under the back edge and pull the bonnet upwards while someone else pulled the cable release.

Bruce. 

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10 hours ago, Rob Salisbury said:

Hi Richard, it might be that my Triumph original bracket (TR4A 1965) is different from a later 6 bracket (same part No. is given for both these days) but but my pin only needs to move a few mm downwards to reach the end of the tube, this is all very useful information for me as I will soon be re-fitting my brand new bonnet, fore warned is fore armed as they say!! ..... Maybe the rope trick is a better bet!! 

Cheers Rob 

Interesting observation Rob. I didn't know there was a difference in the tube lengths. For some reason that particular scenario seems very scary. I must go and get that piece of rope before B&Q run out.

A lot of people waiting for the final outcome on this one. A real cliff hanger. I think Stuart should get his son to set up a live video feed so we can all watch. It will make up for there being no F1 on the TV at the moment.

Richard

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