Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Ahhh, to all of my Triumph friends,

Any ideas how to open the bonnet on my TR6, it’s not the usual snapped cable or issues with the lock assembly, they appear to be functioning and in any case there’s the “emergency” latch on the drivers side (RHD car).  No, the issue I believe is with the bonnet striker assembly.  Last time I was under the bonnet and noticed this mechanism wasn’t secure as the bolts were loose.  So, I thought, good principle would be to tighten them up, before doing so I thought I’d aligned it up well, bit of paper on the lock assembly and oil on the striker assembly etc..

Net result, non opening bonnet and super pissed off owner going about kicking things.  So, far I’ve had someone in the car rocking the release lever, then me putting weight (95kg) about the assembly (drivers side).  Large screw driver either side moving the bonnet with The Boy in the car rocking the release lever, net result chipped wings.  Passing a nylon cord into the bonnet and tugging the bonnet open, net result sore hands oh and me kicking more things !

Anyone got any ideas as I’ve reached the edge of my capabilities !

regards

Stephen

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 286
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

What initially was a depressing fault has turned into a bonding and fault finding session with my 15 year old son, so actually enjoying the process.  “When the wind blows, don’t just build shelter, al

So, you're not happy about the Triumph community - if you haven't already done so, and it appears you haven't since March 2016, then why not join the TR Register and add your voice to the club's suppl

FWIW the new repro catches have been strengthened in the area where the hook mounts to the spring plate, the hook on the receiving catch on the bulkhead may need bending forward a little so they all l

Posted Images

Dear dingle,

Thank you for taking the time to reply to me, I appreciate it.  However unfortunately it’s NOT the cable that’s snapped, the latch is unlatching ok.  The issue seems to be that of the striker being misaligned preventing the bonnet opening once the latch is released.

hope someone can help ?  Please ?

regards

Stephen

Link to post
Share on other sites

Ride on a bumpy road, while pulling regular or emergency release?

car on a lift, remove starter and exhaust to give you some room?

from underneath, can you reach the area with a long screwdriver and unscrew the springed "what you call it"?, or the assembly bolted to the firewall?

Graham

 

Edited by Graham J
Link to post
Share on other sites

If you've exhausted all the possibilities of freeing the plunger by putting force on the back of the bonnet with the catch open I'd look at removing the 8 bolts that hold on the grille then removing the grille to  get at the 4 bolts that hold the lower part of the hinges to the body where its stretched to  form a bowl for the headlights. You have to move the bonnet to get the plunger sideways out of the locking hole. Horrible job , removing the grille may be difficult as  these days  many of the original bolting patterns have been substituted. You should be able to access the grille bolts through the holes in the front skirt under the bumper bar. Anyway this is the area I'm talking about:.

20200524_164559.jpg

Edited by Mike C
Added information.
Link to post
Share on other sites

From underneath it maybe possible to release the two 1/4 unf bolts holding the catch to the bonnet. Not going to be easy. 
Best of luck

Paul

Link to post
Share on other sites

It is possible to gently raise the near side rear corner of the bonnet.

Do this and then insert a length pf 2" x 1" wood and give the latch assembly a few good pushes whilst pulling the cable and pressing the bonnet down above the latch.

 

Roger

Link to post
Share on other sites
10 hours ago, Scotland Director said:

the latch is unlatching ok.  The issue seems to be that of the striker being misaligned preventing the bonnet opening once the latch is released.

Perhaps the answer lies in levering (with wedges of wood not screwdrivers) to move / flex the bonnet sideways, forward or backwards, or whichever way diagonally  ie., in the opposite direction to where the latch is binding.  Most likely it will only need to move 1/8" to unlatch itself from the bracket and I suspect the hinges will flex that amount to achieve this

Your nylon cord might otherwise be used to loop around the bonnet latch itself to pull ' flex it forward or diagonally sideways ..

In either instance the object is to correctly position the latch centrally in the bulkhead bracket so that it unclips ..rather than trying to pull it up.

Pete.

 

Edited by Bfg
Link to post
Share on other sites

Stephen,

If the striker plate bolts are loose then don't push down on the bonnet as this will just make matters worse, from the front of the bonnet try getting someone to push the bonnet rearward a few mm keeping it flat (towards the screen) to force to striker plate against the loose bolts then see if you can release by lifting or gently levering the bonnet up in the area of the catch. 

Good luck, Andrew

Link to post
Share on other sites

Maybe even try a desperate move like clamping  the lock cable in the open position and driving down a potholed road on the chance the bonnet and lock might move enough relatively for the plunger spring to force the bonnet  open.

Desperate times and all that.

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
17 hours ago, Scotland Director said:

Ahhh, to all of my Triumph friends,

Any ideas how to open the bonnet on my TR6, it’s not the usual snapped cable or issues with the lock assembly, they appear to be functioning and in any case there’s the “emergency” latch on the drivers side (RHD car).  No, the issue I believe is with the bonnet striker assembly.  Last time I was under the bonnet and noticed this mechanism wasn’t secure as the bolts were loose.  So, I thought, good principle would be to tighten them up, before doing so I thought I’d aligned it up well, bit of paper on the lock assembly and oil on the striker assembly etc..

Net result, non opening bonnet and super pissed off owner going about kicking things.  So, far I’ve had someone in the car rocking the release lever, then me putting weight (95kg) about the assembly (drivers side).  Large screw driver either side moving the bonnet with The Boy in the car rocking the release lever, net result chipped wings.  Passing a nylon cord into the bonnet and tugging the bonnet open, net result sore hands oh and me kicking more things !

Anyone got any ideas as I’ve reached the edge of my capabilities !

regards

Stephen

Hi Stephen, all the above are good suggestions and worth the time to explore. Would advise some caution with what you push under the bonnet as a jolt from a battery cable will make your eyes water:blink:. I have a small 4/5" plastic bag I keep in the car which has a small bulb pump attached to it for easing under the bonnet near the bonnet latch from the windscreen side, the idea being less likely to damage paint etc when inflating to lift bonnet. i can't remember were I got it but if all else fails try looking on google for one.

Good luck

Paul

Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, Andrew Smith said:

Stephen,

If the striker plate bolts are loose then don't push down on the bonnet as this will just make matters worse, from the front of the bonnet try getting someone to push the bonnet rearward a few mm keeping it flat (towards the screen) to force to striker plate against the loose bolts then see if you can release by lifting or gently levering the bonnet up in the area of the catch. 

Good luck, Andrew

Andrew, 

Thank you for you good luck wishes, the striker bolts were loose, but I tightened them, I’m thinking this is the crux of the matter, perhaps it aligned itself previously and prevented this problem.

BTW Nice car and beautiful scenery.

regards

Stephen 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Sounds to me that you may have got the arm from your secondary open device over the top on the bonnet release, that will stop both opening you could try pushing that upwards to bend the arm but no guarantee 

Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, Mike C said:

Maybe even try a desperate move like clamping  the lock cable in the open position and driving down a potholed road on the chance the bonnet and lock might move enough relatively for the plunger spring to force the bonnet  open.

Desperate times and all that.

 

Dear Mike C.,

That is an excellent idea, sadly I have a battery isolator fitted and therefore the battery is currently disconnected, so I can’t even do that, which is tragic, so I think that could have been a great option, but sadly not possible.

regards

Stephen

Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, ntc said:

Sounds to me that you may have got the arm from your secondary open device over the top on the bonnet release, that will stop both opening you could try pushing that upwards to bend the arm but no guarantee 

Dear NTC,

Thats an interesting comment, I don’t understand your point, could you please kindly elaborate ?

best regards

Stephen

Link to post
Share on other sites
27 minutes ago, Scotland Director said:

Dear NTC,

Thats an interesting comment, I don’t understand your point, could you please kindly elaborate ?

best regards

Stephen

Do you have the type that has a rod to pull down inside the car next to the battery tray?

Link to post
Share on other sites
On 5/23/2020 at 8:03 PM, jimcwestie said:

Did a search of the forum and this might help

 

Dear Jim,

Thank you for taking the time to search and then send this to me, another member has also suggest that this could be the cause, I trying to understand exactly what happens and then obviously how I recover the situation.  Anyway, it’s another avenue to explore next weekend, many thanks for that.

Regards

Stepehn

Link to post
Share on other sites
On 5/23/2020 at 8:37 PM, dingle said:

Here is a tip from the colonies-https://static1.squarespace.com/static/5c6dec53b10f25d4edf0b3f7/t/5d0193e9570e0800010c9b31/1560384490058/Bonnet+Cable.pdf 

Not sure how it would work on a RHD car.

Berry

Thank you from the Colonies , It’s not actually the cable that’s snapped, it’s something else, but thanks for trying to help me, appreciated.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.