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How to adjust doors


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Hi hope you are keeping well  when driving over bumbey road their his plenty of banging in the door areas but when you drive whith doors open its all not making a banging at all any help to solve my problem will be good from billy

 

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Hi Billy, are the doors locked, I mean on the 2nd “click” of the lock mechanism? If so, I would start checking the bolts from the door glas guides, 2 can be accessed without removing the panel. Check hinges and door locks too for tightness. Shine a light with the window glass all the way down and check if you see anything weird. Otherwise, remove the door panel, this will make finding the culprit easier and make all parts accesible.
Cheers,

Waldi

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One of mine bangs, I felt it was coming from the lock area, there is a pin that engages when the door is shut, I'm sure I put some grease on to check but I can't remember if it temporarily resolved it, that's the only area of contact that could flex and move a little. 

Gareth

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Hi Billy,
Could it be rattling from the door-opening rod? This has felt to avoid that. A broken guide for the glas Is another possibility.

What exactly do you mean with “banging”?

Waldi

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OK I drove the car and what I've found is:

the door sits in the door opening in the right position.

The door lock is latched on the second click.

When the door is shut it's possible to hold the door even closer and then let go and it springs back and makes a knock.

The passenger side is hard against the door frame so doesn't move, I can't see how moving the striker plate will help as the door is already sitting right. The furlex stuff is in place too. 

Gareth

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Normally the door seal is acting as a stop/damper. This avoids rattling of the door in the door lock.is your seal think enough? I just measured mine (not furflex) and it measures 16-17 mm from the metal flange. Before fitting the door seal I checked the gap between door and body flange, and had to correct the distance here and there by careful bending to get it even. Doors close like a modern car.

Waldi

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It certainly feels like it should push harder against the seal to stop any movement. Could buy a new seal but it might not be any different. 

I had two thoughts, maybe remove the striker plate and try it over the catch/lock mechanism to see how well it engages with it and what movement there is, and also make up a rubber buffer to temporarily see if that cures it. 

I'll certainty check my flange to see if it's correct and measure my seal against your measurement and see what's going on there. 

Thanks

Gareth

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Gareth.

The normally available door seals are o shaped.  The original ones were flap shaped (!) not o shaped.  The o shaped are wider than original.  Woolies have the flap shaped version.  My door banging ceased when I used the woolies version.

 

cheers

 

dave

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Hi Richard,
A crack during opening normally comes from the “door opening limiter“.

Waldi

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12 hours ago, aardvark said:

Gareth.

The normally available door seals are o shaped.  The original ones were flap shaped (!) not o shaped.  The o shaped are wider than original.  Woolies have the flap shaped version.  My door banging ceased when I used the woolies version.

 

cheers

 

dave

Thanks Dave, I had found reference of these from my research on the subject, but I can't see how it would stop my door moving, it's as though when I'm on the second click of the latch you can push the door a bit more against the seal and then let go it bangs back on the latch. 

So if I could stop the door moving the noise should stop, I can't see the door seals being strong enough to push against the door, they clearly aren't now, would new or the correct ones make a difference, I can't see it. 

I feel like I need to add some rubber to the striker plate, with enough squish to allow the door to shut but hard enough to allow no movement. 

Gareth

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3 hours ago, Mk2 Chopper said:

Thanks Dave, I had found reference of these from my research on the subject, but I can't see how it would stop my door moving, it's as though when I'm on the second click of the latch you can push the door a bit more against the seal and then let go it bangs back on the latch. 

So if I could stop the door moving the noise should stop, I can't see the door seals being strong enough to push against the door, they clearly aren't now, would new or the correct ones make a difference, I can't see it. 

I feel like I need to add some rubber to the striker plate, with enough squish to allow the door to shut but hard enough to allow no movement. 

Gareth

If your sure its not the door lock worn and slipping off the second catch then by the sound of it if when shut the rear door edge lines up well with the rear wing edge and the door rubber isnt contacting the door enough then it may well be a case of bending the lip edge that the seal affixes to outwards a little to get the rubber to sit right.Normally its the other way round and the tube type seals as stated above are too big and make the door difficult to shut and the better option is to buy the flap type. Have a look here for different size seals. https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/category/37/side-seals

Stuart.

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Thanks Stuart, I'm going to have a good look into it, and compare it to my 'good' door and see if the seal lip is indeed too far away from the door, maybe a previous owner did it to help the door shut better when the seals were new?

Do the flap type still put pressure on the door like the tube type? 

Gareth

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2 hours ago, Mk2 Chopper said:

Thanks Stuart, I'm going to have a good look into it, and compare it to my 'good' door and see if the seal lip is indeed too far away from the door, maybe a previous owner did it to help the door shut better when the seals were new?

Do the flap type still put pressure on the door like the tube type? 

Gareth

Not really, the flap type are more useful when the doors are a tight fit to the aperture lip, thats what the cars had originally but if the sills have been replaced quite often the gaps alter.

Stuart.

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2 minutes ago, stuart said:

Not really, the flap type are more useful when the doors are a tight fit to the aperture lip, thats what the cars had originally but if the sills have been replaced quite often the gaps alter.

Stuart.

Ah that's what I thought, I've had a look and found I could close the door gap up a little by moving the striker in as far as it will go, and the lip you mentioned was a little bent in towards the interior side, so now with those two things it's a tighter fit, pretty similar to the passenger side now, you can still push the door inwards a little (but using more pressure) and there is still a knock as you let go as the door catch goes back on it's stop, again very similar to the other side which doesn't make a noise, so hopefully tightening it up will have sorted  it. I test drive over the weekend.

Also at the bottom of the door latch/lock below where the pin locates in the hole there seems to be a spring you can see, I wonder what that does?

Gareth

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3 minutes ago, Mk2 Chopper said:

Ah that's what I thought, I've had a look and found I could close the door gap up a little by moving the striker in as far as it will go, and the lip you mentioned was a little bent in towards the interior side, so now with those two things it's a tighter fit, pretty similar to the passenger side now, you can still push the door inwards a little (but using more pressure) and there is still a knock as you let go as the door catch goes back on it's stop, again very similar to the other side which doesn't make a noise, so hopefully tightening it up will have sorted  it. I test drive over the weekend.

Also at the bottom of the door latch/lock below where the pin locates in the hole there seems to be a spring you can see, I wonder what that does?

Gareth

Put some Vaseline all around the seal then shut the door, open it and see where the contact points are on the door then as Stuart said bend the lip so it fits. 

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59 minutes ago, Mk2 Chopper said:

Ah that's what I thought, I've had a look and found I could close the door gap up a little by moving the striker in as far as it will go, and the lip you mentioned was a little bent in towards the interior side, so now with those two things it's a tighter fit, pretty similar to the passenger side now, you can still push the door inwards a little (but using more pressure) and there is still a knock as you let go as the door catch goes back on it's stop, again very similar to the other side which doesn't make a noise, so hopefully tightening it up will have sorted  it. I test drive over the weekend.

Also at the bottom of the door latch/lock below where the pin locates in the hole there seems to be a spring you can see, I wonder what that does?

Gareth

The spring is a buffer for the receiver where the large pin goes into the catch unit.

Stuart.

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An update, after adjusting the door striker plate as mentioned above, it seems to have done the trick, had a good run out with the roof down and no longer noticeable.

Thanks for the advice.

Gareth

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