RogerH Posted May 16, 2020 Report Share Posted May 16, 2020 (edited) Hi Folks, whilst playing with a few little rust problems on the 4A I hit upon a brilliant idea. A moment of genius. On the front of the offside inner wing there is a small section that goes down to the very front lower corner. I found this rusty about five years ago and so cut it off and welded a new piece back in. This was mild steel, coated with BondaRust, gloss coat and waxoyl. Even with a wheel arch liner it is in a very exposed area. Any way the repaired section was very rusty. Easy enough to replace but it will go rusty again. Now for the brilliance - you'll be mighty impressed - honest. I thought why not replace it with a piece of stainless steel. I know you can weld stainless and mild steel but I did not know about the long term issues. Onto google - you can weld the two. Preferably with a Stainless filler but mild steel filler will work OK. Now my mind got racing How about all those other areas that traditionally go rusty in the blink of an eye. Bottom edge of the front/rear valance, bottom inch of the sill lower inner section and the outer section. Or even to take it to an extreme the boot lower edge I wonder If I will get an award to industry for this OK come on tell me where I'm going wrong. Roger Edited May 16, 2020 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted May 16, 2020 Report Share Posted May 16, 2020 Sounds good. but You will just pi** off the tin worms and after they have complained through there elected representatives they will take direct action & attack the joint between the stainless and mild steels with renewed vigour. Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rob Salisbury Posted May 16, 2020 Report Share Posted May 16, 2020 Or replace the whole body with stainless, you wont even have to paint it then!! Rob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted May 16, 2020 Report Share Posted May 16, 2020 Only problem being stainless is a bugger to work into a shape. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 16, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2020 Hi Peter - sod the tin worm Hi Rob - so that Hi Stuart - except for the boot lid (and I'm sure that can be done) all the areas I thought of are flat.(ish) Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted May 16, 2020 Report Share Posted May 16, 2020 I have welded stainless using regular MIG wire. As predicted the weld rusted. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DavidBee Posted May 16, 2020 Report Share Posted May 16, 2020 tin worm will then complain to the EU Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted May 16, 2020 Report Share Posted May 16, 2020 When my Stag was repaired by Foundry Classics of Dorking (no longer there unfortunatly) he let in repair sections into doors & wings &he always used stainless steel. I have done a fair bit of stainless welding (mig) using stainless wire when the job was all stainless (sidescreen frames for my Hillman), if joining stainless to mild, then no point using stainless wire, but the two join perfectly. I find the "standard" gas mix of Argon, Co2, & oxygen works well for both. Bob Aerominx sidescreen frame after covering. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ed_h Posted May 16, 2020 Report Share Posted May 16, 2020 It's a brilliant idea, especially for areas that don't require much shaping. I think I'll borrow it. Ed Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 16, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2020 1 hour ago, foster461 said: I have welded stainless using regular MIG wire. As predicted the weld rusted. Hi Stan, the mild steel weld will rust so it needs as much protection as possible. I was hoping somebody may mention the speed of galvanic corrosion v environmental (weather) rusting. I still think it is a good idea if one is prepared to go to the TRouble Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ChrisR-4A Posted May 16, 2020 Report Share Posted May 16, 2020 (edited) Roger, I'm sure you could convert the 4A doors to Gull Wing and you will have the first-- Delorean-Michelotti - IRS. This could look good on the boot. DeLotti 4A-IRS Chris Edited May 16, 2020 by ChrisR-4A Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted May 16, 2020 Report Share Posted May 16, 2020 27 minutes ago, ChrisR-4A said: Roger, I'm sure you could convert the 4A doors to Gull Wing and you will have the first-- Delorean-Michelotti - IRS. This could look good on the boot. DeLotti 4A-IRS Chris Go for these hinges easier than full wing I’m sure you could sort it Roger FlowerW Universal Lambo Door Kit Bolt On Vertical Doors Hinge Kit, 90 Degree Ver... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B081Q71TPL/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_jnbWEbD8YWHXZ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 16, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2020 I think I have plenty of work before we go truly esoteric Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PaulAnderson Posted May 17, 2020 Report Share Posted May 17, 2020 18 hours ago, stuart said: Only problem being stainless is a bugger to work into a shape. Stuart. Isn’t that why the forthcoming Tesla truck is so angular and hence hideous to look at. Paul Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted May 17, 2020 Report Share Posted May 17, 2020 43 minutes ago, PaulAnderson said: Isn’t that why the forthcoming Tesla truck is so angular and hence hideous to look at. Paul Surely you have to consider the target market? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 17, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2020 Sha 51 minutes ago, PaulAnderson said: Isn’t that why the forthcoming Tesla truck is so angular and hence hideous to look at. Paul Shaping stainless is easily done with the right equipment. Just like the difference between OEM and repro panels; the OEM is thicker - but needs heavier more expensive presses to work it. Shaping stainless by hand is much more difficult than mild steel but can be done. Hard work though. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
john.r.davies Posted May 17, 2020 Report Share Posted May 17, 2020 I don't think you can blame the stainless for the looks of the Tesla. The DeLorean was all stainless, and had a fair few curves. The waist strake ridge was fashionable at the time - an Esprit had them because they were built from two GRP shells that met at the waistline Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Parkerscottages Posted May 19, 2020 Report Share Posted May 19, 2020 On the subject of Waxoyl, how much would one need to cover all the inner wheel arches, sils, etc, I am wondering to go for the larger 5ltr can or can one make do with 2 aerosol tins? Tks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 19, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2020 12 minutes ago, Parkerscottages said: On the subject of Waxoyl, how much would one need to cover all the inner wheel arches, sils, etc, I am wondering to go for the larger 5ltr can or can one make do with 2 aerosol tins? Tks Go for the 5Ltr. That way you will surely have enough. It will keep in the tin and will need re-applying in 2 - 3 years time The aerosol cans are very good for doing in the inside of the sills and chassis section. Dinitrol 3125HS for inside the box sections will extend the gap between re-application. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Parkerscottages Posted May 19, 2020 Report Share Posted May 19, 2020 Reading around it seems that you can heat the wax to liquify, poor some into a cheap garden sprayer and then spray rather than the £40 Waxoyl sprayer, would this work? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted May 19, 2020 Report Share Posted May 19, 2020 In my experience you need to heat it (and / or thin with white spirit) to spray it, especially if you are pushing it down a tube to get inside a box section. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted May 19, 2020 Report Share Posted May 19, 2020 For applying Waxoyl use one of these Waxoyl gun Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stagpowered Posted May 19, 2020 Report Share Posted May 19, 2020 A few years ago I found tin worm in the bottom of the sills on my TR250 where the clips push on that hold the bottom of the front wing. Since these clips tend to scratch the paint off when they are fitted, I decided to make the patch out of stainless. Just used ordinary mig wire and argoshield The first set of manifolds and exhaust system I built for my Stag engine conversion were made from stainless tubing migged with ordinary mild steel wire. I think they lasted about 17 or 18 years until the welds started rusting through. As the welding process fuses the two different metals together it must mix the chrome in the stainless with the mild steel, so although all the joints were butted up before welding, the rust was about 1/8th of an inch wide which made re-welding the rusted joints more trouble than it was worth. I ended up making a complete new system using stainless wire this time. Neil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted May 19, 2020 Report Share Posted May 19, 2020 6 hours ago, stuart said: For applying Waxoyl use one of these Waxoyl gun Stuart. I have a Schultz gun like the one above. I found it sprayed waxoil direct from the gun OK, but struggled to push it up the long tube. I now use a different type which actually presurises the container, thus pushing the waxoil out rather than sucking it out. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted May 20, 2020 Report Share Posted May 20, 2020 11 hours ago, Lebro said: I have a Schultz gun like the one above. I found it sprayed waxoil direct from the gun OK, but struggled to push it up the long tube. I now use a different type which actually presurises the container, thus pushing the waxoil out rather than sucking it out. Bob. Thats funny as the one I have which is similar has never had a problem with the wand and its had gallons through it, its not quite the same as the standard Shutz gun as the pickup pipe is twice the bore size, thats the difference for a waxoyl version. Do be careful using a pressurised container as they often arent properly pressure tested and can explode. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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