Lebro Posted June 12, 2020 Report Share Posted June 12, 2020 (edited) So, found a suitable 100K pot in stock, have dismantled an old heater rheostat (it was broken anyway), and intend opening up the original rheostat shaft to take the new pot spindle(cut down) inside it. then the new pot body will screw into the rheostat housing once I have threaded it, & it will all look completely standard. A nice lathe job for tomorrow Bob. Edited June 12, 2020 by Lebro Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy Moltu Posted June 12, 2020 Report Share Posted June 12, 2020 It’s a question of whether I get impatient and swap the heater or be patient and swap it when the gearbox, engine and tunnel are out for my planned engine fettle. I like the 4A but needs a bit more poke although I won’t go quite as wild as the 6. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted June 13, 2020 Report Share Posted June 13, 2020 Original shaft shortened, & drilled ¼" 15mm deep, shaft on new pot shortened, & superglued into the original shaft. Checked the thread on the new pot - 3/8" X 32 TPI guess what - I had a couple of taps that exact thread ! who would have thought it. Even better the internal dia of the stripped down rheostat body was just right to take those taps !!! How lucky can one get one asks oneself ? Cut off the supplied pot, & wired in my replacement using same coloured wires (& extending them), the covered the exposed pot connections with hot melt glue. Next step is to wire it into the car. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted June 13, 2020 Report Share Posted June 13, 2020 (edited) Ok, all fitted. The worst part was removing the very short -ve wire from the heater to it's earth point on top of the heater ! By removing the glove box, I could just grab the end of the wire with long nose pliers, & then wiggle it back & forth till it broke off the ring terminal, I then had enough to reach in & extend it using an insulated crimp joining piece. The rest was just a case of providing an ignition switched +ve to the heater motor, & wiring the new speed controller into the now extended -ve wire. Found a convenient place to secure the controller on the back of the pedal box. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y4zMc-84inw&feature=youtu.be Bob. Edited June 13, 2020 by Lebro Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted June 13, 2020 Report Share Posted June 13, 2020 Bob what is the “T” piece for ? on the drain tube Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AndyR100 Posted June 13, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2020 59 minutes ago, Lebro said: Ok, all fitted. The worst part was removing the very short -ve wire from the heater to it's earth point on top of the heater ! By removing the glove box, I could just grab the end of the wire with long nose pliers, & then wiggle it back & forth till it broke off the ring terminal, I then had enough to reach in & extend it using an insulated crimp joining piece. The rest was just a case of providing an ignition switched +ve to the heater motor, & wiring the new speed controller into the now extended -ve wire. Found a convenient place to secure the controller on the back of the pedal box. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y4zMc-84inw&feature=youtu.be Bob. Well done Bob, Excellent job ! Big thumbs-up from me ....... Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Upriis Posted June 13, 2020 Report Share Posted June 13, 2020 Big Thumbs up from me to all, who’ve developed this project. great project to keep me out of trouble, for a bit! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted June 13, 2020 Report Share Posted June 13, 2020 1 hour ago, Hamish said: Bob what is the “T” piece for ? on the drain tube Drain from battery box,& vent combined into 1 pipe exiting over the gearbox Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted June 13, 2020 Report Share Posted June 13, 2020 Thanks H Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted June 13, 2020 Report Share Posted June 13, 2020 1 hour ago, AndyR100 said: Well done Bob, Excellent job ! Big thumbs-up from me ....... Andy Hi Andy, thanks for being the original instigator of this project. By taking the heater out I improved my cable routing and now understand abot more about PWM controllers. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AndyR100 Posted June 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2020 12 hours ago, RogerH said: Hi Andy, thanks for being the original instigator of this project. By taking the heater out I improved my cable routing and now understand abot more about PWM controllers. Roger Thanks Roger, this was a great team-effort - thanks to all who offered help and advise - I just asked the first question! Many thanks for taking the time to help my understanding of the Pot/controller/wiring, it reminds me that every day is a school-day cheers..... Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy Moltu Posted June 14, 2020 Report Share Posted June 14, 2020 Just waiting on a new matrix. Going to wire it with a 2 Speed switch for 3 reasons 1) For those who may drive it in the dark and unfamiliar with the mod will expect a pull switch. 2) There is slightly more grunt on full power when the controller is bypassed. 3) The Ebay controller is cheap and if it fails will give the option of the fan remaining functional. It will be interesting to see how much more air the Spal fan shifts compared to the original even though its motor is much lighter. If it does the job will do the same on the 6 although it works well enough the motor sounds like it’s on borrowed time. The same heater works better in the 6 because it is fed with hotter water compared to the 4 pot. Even more effective with the winter stat. I to have learned a bit about how motor controllers and Pots work. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted June 14, 2020 Report Share Posted June 14, 2020 15 minutes ago, Andy Moltu said: The same heater works better in the 6 because it is fed with hotter water compared to the 4 pot. Even more effective with the winter stat. Not sure I would agree with you there, if theyre both running at the same temperature then there would be no difference, the heater matrix is the same. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy Moltu Posted June 14, 2020 Report Share Posted June 14, 2020 I thought the 6 stat was 4 degrees higher Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AndyR100 Posted June 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2020 4 hours ago, Andy Moltu said: It will be interesting to see how much more air the Spal fan shifts compared to the original even though its motor is much lighter. I’d be surprised if you are not pleased with the outcome - I measured a consistent 30% fan improvement when I compared the original. I don’t know the rating of the original fan, but the catalogue lists 360 cfm for the SPAL which I chose (a101, not the a100) , that is more than some of the larger 6/6.5” having driven it over the last couple of days I am very satisfied with the result ........ Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy Moltu Posted June 14, 2020 Report Share Posted June 14, 2020 Crickey Andy heater on in June, what next hood up like an MGB Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AndyR100 Posted June 15, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2020 10 hours ago, Andy Moltu said: Crickey Andy heater on in June, what next hood up like an MGB Well, having just spent some effort doing the job, it seemed daft to wait until the cold morning commute to test it out. Yes - the roof is often up for the drive to work as well, i try and avoid the drowned-rat look on arrival (usually) ........ Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted June 15, 2020 Report Share Posted June 15, 2020 16 hours ago, Andy Moltu said: I thought the 6 stat was 4 degrees higher Depends on what stat you have fitted so irrelevant as standard stat is the same 82C. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Leno Posted June 18, 2020 Report Share Posted June 18, 2020 Thanks for starting this topic AndyR100, and thanks to all that contributed - great community once again that covered the topic thoroughly and found new solutions. I was looking at the squirrel cage route, but with this article - I've just ordered my spal fan, so will be assembling my heater early next week (TR4 rebuild) Cheers Len Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AndyR100 Posted June 18, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2020 3 hours ago, Leno said: I was looking at the squirrel cage route, but with this article - I've just ordered my spal fan, so will be assembling my heater early next week (TR4 rebuild) Excellent! glad it has helped you...... i do hope we havn't started a shortage of 5.5" SPAL fans ....... Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MRG1965 Posted September 18, 2020 Report Share Posted September 18, 2020 HI, thanks for this tip. I have a spare heater box in the garage with the intention of replacing the fan and motor with a newer hamster cage fan and motor, sorry don't know the correct name, but I'm sure all will understand who read this will. Purchased a cheap heater box off e-bay with all the wiring and resistors etc from a land rover discovery with the intention of modifying the top motor cover to take the new motor and fan, but the Spal fan is sooooo much of a better idea. Cheers Mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AndyR100 Posted September 19, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2020 17 hours ago, MRG1965 said: HI, thanks for this tip. I have a spare heater box in the garage with the intention of replacing the fan and motor with a newer hamster cage fan and motor, sorry don't know the correct name, but I'm sure all will understand who read this will. Purchased a cheap heater box off e-bay with all the wiring and resistors etc from a land rover discovery with the intention of modifying the top motor cover to take the new motor and fan, but the Spal fan is sooooo much of a better idea. Cheers Mark Glad this has helped introduce an alternative option for you - it is a simple idea, but sometimes that is all that’s needed. Hope it works well for you Weirdly, I’m now looking forward to the cooler/damper mornings! ...... Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted September 19, 2020 Report Share Posted September 19, 2020 Hi Andy, having done your mod' I can assure you that on my 4A the heat blows out a treat and the demisters actually work. Even with the US heater valve upgrade it just needs to be cracked open for more than enough heat. I shall take it out in the late autumn and fit some sound deadening stuff on the mounts Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted June 1, 2022 Report Share Posted June 1, 2022 I’ve just read through this excellent thread and shall be ordering a spal fan ! thanks everyone for contributing another genuine ‘improvement’ opportunity for my ‘6 steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted June 1, 2022 Report Share Posted June 1, 2022 Hi Steve, ensure you mount the fan on rubber feet.Otherwise it can vibrate. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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