michaeldavis39 Posted May 15, 2020 Report Share Posted May 15, 2020 (edited) Well after a bit of research I found some plugs which are a good fit for the arms- the top outer area is not as big as originals but they still look the part and won't fall out. The photos are quite self explanetary. Cost was around ten pounds for 4 incl postage. Michael Edited May 15, 2020 by michaeldavis39 Text missing Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted May 15, 2020 Report Share Posted May 15, 2020 5 hours ago, michaeldavis39 said: Well after a bit of research I found some plugs which are a good fit for the arms- the top outer area is not as big as originals but they still look the part and won't fall out. The photos are quite self explanetary. Cost was around ten pounds for 4 incl postage. Michael They look quite good anyway and would do the job which was only to stop that hole filling up with water/mud Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave McDonald Posted May 15, 2020 Report Share Posted May 15, 2020 Michael, The finish on the assemblies looks good. Are they painted, if so what paint, or powder quoted? Going by the coating covering the bolt heads and washers have they been coated as a complete assembly or individual components? Dave McD Quote Link to post Share on other sites
michaeldavis39 Posted May 16, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2020 David the arms were sand blasted then acid etch primed, bolted together and sprayed with 2 pac primer and 2 pac top coat - paint is from Rustbuster the gloss black is called PROTECT UVR HIGH GLOSS Topcoat. I painted the bolts as I figured they won't need to be removed for assembly as they didn't need removing for disassembly either, I may still remove them and put fresh ones in depends how ocd I feel. All the other nuts, bolts, washers are brand new zinc plated and when torqued up will be getting a coat of Rust bullet clear which I recently discovered is a uv resistant clear coat for metal so the zinc coating should look shiny for longer--I hate seeing recently restored cars and the bodywork is all shiny then you look at the suspension components and they're all rusty nuts and bolts but then that's my ocd again lol. Michael Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jerrytr5 Posted May 17, 2020 Report Share Posted May 17, 2020 You might struggle to get the trunnion bush in without loosening the bolts. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, 'cos it does look pretty. Jerry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
michaeldavis39 Posted May 17, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2020 Already tried the trunnion bolt Jerry no problem there but thanks for the concern. I'm just waiting now for the new Super Pro bushes to arrive as my mechanic friend unfortunately lost the last lot - he's paying this time for the replacements. Bit frustrating as after several years I've now got time to start putting this car back together and wanted to crack on with it last couple of days and couldn't--all I got done was fitting the top fulcrum pin which is about all you can do without bushes--yes I did fit it the right way around and I gave the body a clean-its still in primer. Michael Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted May 18, 2020 Report Share Posted May 18, 2020 (edited) Hi Michael, edit because I was unfriendly, sorry me. I just wanted to recommend you, it may be less effort to put it in pieces again to fit it on the car. Ciao, Marco Edited May 18, 2020 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
michaeldavis39 Posted May 18, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2020 Marco I may be non tr savvy but when I removed the spring I did not take the bottom spring pan apart! Also I did not use the through the spring onto the top turret spring compressor - I used 2 modern spring compressors one each side taking my time and being careful and had no issue with that. Michael Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted May 18, 2020 Report Share Posted May 18, 2020 You are right, several roads guide to Rome. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted May 18, 2020 Report Share Posted May 18, 2020 1 hour ago, michaeldavis39 said: Marco I may be non tr savvy but when I removed the spring I did not take the bottom spring pan apart! Also I did not use the through the spring onto the top turret spring compressor - I used 2 modern spring compressors one each side taking my time and being careful and had no issue with that. Michael Thats a very dangerous way to do it, if they had slid round (Which they are quite prone to do) you would have ended up in lots of trouble. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted May 18, 2020 Report Share Posted May 18, 2020 (edited) I should be quiet, but allow me to mention this: +1 for Stuart Edited May 18, 2020 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
michaeldavis39 Posted May 18, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2020 Point taken Stuart and I didn't know at the time and now know different. Michael Quote Link to post Share on other sites
michaeldavis39 Posted May 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2020 Here you go guys first side suspension done. As can be seen I didn't have to undo the spring pan from the wishbone arms- I bolted the wishbone with spring pan attached to the chassis frame, then I got 2 small g cramps and wound up the spring by about half an inch so that I could get the spring with isolators under the turret and into the top of the spring pan- this was not at all dangerous as the spring was not at all under massive amounts of tension, then once spring was on the spring pan I fitted my spring compression bar between pan and turret and once it was bolted in place I removed the g cramps- no damage to powder coating no damage to me and all went very smoothly and safely. Photo shows my setup, oh and the progressive spring. I thoroughly enjoyed doing all this work and despite everyone's concerns I did it my way and it was easy. Michael Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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