MRG1965 Posted May 11, 2020 Report Share Posted May 11, 2020 Hi, looks like a home made cylinder leak tester, made one my self about 40 years ago. Set cylinder to TDC on the firing stroke, put in gear and chock wheels if needed, screw the spark plug adaptor in to the chosen cylinder and connect up your air line. Listen for air leaks out of the exhaust, carbs, crank case and also water or bubbles out of the radiator to indicate if valves, head gasket or rings are worn or failed. Mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted May 11, 2020 Report Share Posted May 11, 2020 You mean like this ? Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MRG1965 Posted May 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2020 Hi Bob, yes, spark plug body connected to an air line connector. Mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted May 11, 2020 Report Share Posted May 11, 2020 I wondered what this was about until I realise that some of you have received the latest traction (I hav'nt yet). Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Blanchard Posted May 11, 2020 Report Share Posted May 11, 2020 Handy tool to use when replacing valve stem seals. Remove rocker shaft then pressurise individual combustion chamber to hold valves onto their seats allowing you to remove springs and collets then replace stem seals. Saves removal of cylinder head. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Morrison Posted May 12, 2020 Report Share Posted May 12, 2020 Hi peter, welcome to the forum, sounds like yu know your stuff! John. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted May 12, 2020 Report Share Posted May 12, 2020 The rope trick also works for that if you don't have a compressor. Remember which cylinder you've moved the rope to though - see my post ages ago to see how I know Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DaveN Posted May 12, 2020 Report Share Posted May 12, 2020 Peter beat me to it! Changing valve springs and stem seals. I still have one kicking about somewhere! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted May 12, 2020 Report Share Posted May 12, 2020 TRaction arrived today. I had not realised that the item in question was the one I made !!! Yes made it to find out where my lost compression was going on No. 3 cylinder. Turned out it was rushing past the closed exhaust valve. Now all fixed. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Geoff Winkworth Posted June 3, 2020 Report Share Posted June 3, 2020 I just opened up TR Action 321 and I hav'nt seen one of these devices for years. Peter has the answer I think, I once owned a five cylinder Audi GLS which was prone to worn valve seals with a few miles on the clock. Characterised by clouds of blue smoke in the mirror when you take your foot off the accelerator. Loaned one by a Porche 924 owner with the same basic engine, yes its for changing valve seals without removing the cylinder head, and it works. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted June 3, 2020 Report Share Posted June 3, 2020 (edited) Please read the post above yours ! Mark was correct in the 1st post. Bob. Edited June 3, 2020 by Lebro Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John L Posted June 4, 2020 Report Share Posted June 4, 2020 As a matter of interest how much pressure do you need to be able to renew the valve stem seals, to compress the spring enough to get the collets out? I suppose you would have to keep flow/pressure there regulated by the compressor. I had thought of using the rope method, so don't have to take the head off. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted June 4, 2020 Report Share Posted June 4, 2020 Should be able to work it out - knowing the surface area of the valve head & the strength of the spring. if spring required 10 lb to compress it enough to release the collets & valve area was 1sq" then 10 PSI would hold it. Bob. BUT THAT IS NOT WHAT THE TOOL WAS MADE FOR !!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted June 4, 2020 Report Share Posted June 4, 2020 Sorry Bob, you are not trying to use the air pressure to resist the force needed to compress the springs. That force goes through the head. The air pressure is simply to resist gravity and stop the valve dropping into the cylinder. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted June 4, 2020 Report Share Posted June 4, 2020 Sorry Ian Knowing how the collets tend to stick in position until disturbed, when you depress the valve spring end cap it will want to take the valve with it even ignoring gravity, so applying enough pressure under the valve head to resist the spring should hold it up. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
HSM Posted June 4, 2020 Report Share Posted June 4, 2020 It is possible using an old plug with the centre cut out & a rod inserted with the end bent over enough to lock behind a valve & then pulled back holding the valve head shut & then clamped in position to remove the valve spring without removing the head. I have a home made tool somewhere in my toolbox that that has helped me at race meetings in the past to replace broken valve springs. Harvey S. Maitland Quote Link to post Share on other sites
HSM Posted June 4, 2020 Report Share Posted June 4, 2020 Just had a search in my stores & found the tool in question. The rod I used was an old push rod with last inch bent at approx. 30", have used it on MGBs should work o.k. on TR heads. Harvey S. Maitland Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted June 4, 2020 Report Share Posted June 4, 2020 I have only done this once with head in situ, & that was my old series 3 landie. I used the rope trick. it worked Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy Moltu Posted June 4, 2020 Report Share Posted June 4, 2020 Indian rope trick. Feed cord through plug hole, rotate until rope contacts valve. You can then remove valve spring. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.