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Looks like the side bracket as Ian has said needs to be level with the bracket on the car for one and the point about the hood pegs is very valid as the repro pegs have a pointed top whereas the original ones had flattened tops and just that little difference can make the hardtop sit up at the rear. TRF supply the correct ones http://trf.zeni.net/webcatalog/specials6.22/20.php?s_wt=1280&s_ht=1024

Stuart.

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10 minutes ago, iain said:

Hi Jeff

it will be worth it...:-)

Do the brackets rotate on the adjusting screws behind your nice lining? Mine are both level with the capping piece. Also is the rear of the HT down? I.e not catching on lift the dot pegs, there are receiving holes in the bottom metal rail of the HT which allow the top to fit closer to the rear capping and allow it to level out......i'm guessing the pegs might be being obstructed by nice new lining material, being taught across the holes? 

 

Iain

Hi Iain,

The brackets rotate to a limited degree, as you know they fit in slots in the reinforcing rail. Both brackets are reasonably horizontal when the HT is tightened down, the problem is mainly that the holes stand too far out from the bridge pieces to enable the fastening bolt to engage, albeit the rear seal around the bottom edge of the HT is nicely squashed down so the area should be watertight if only it could be screwed down. It's probably an indication that the HT is fitting squarely.

The three rear brackets sit down nicely on the capping pieces when they're fitted. The cappings are off at the moment to enable me to adjust things if necessary.

Regarding the rear tenax pegs, if I'm not careful they can ruck up the rear draught excluder when the top is placed on the car - this stops the pegs fully entering the receiving holes but clearing them doesn't give sufficient free play to move the HT that much further forward. As for my headlining, I'd like to think it was nice and taught but I haven't glued the edge around the rear rail yet until I'm confident the rear brackets are properly adjusted.

I'd wondered if the tenax pegs are possibly too long - they're the standard one's used with my soft top - but as far as I can tell they seem to fit OK in the receiving holes. What length are the pegs on yourTR?

Regards,

JEFFR

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34 minutes ago, stuart said:

Looks like the side bracket as Ian has said needs to be level with the bracket on the car for one and the point about the hood pegs is very valid as the repro pegs have a pointed top whereas the original ones had flattened tops and just that little difference can make the hardtop sit up at the rear. TRF supply the correct ones http://trf.zeni.net/webcatalog/specials6.22/20.php?s_wt=1280&s_ht=1024

Stuart.

Hi Stuart,

Thank you for your comments. I'd wondered if the pegs are right. They're not newly purchased, they've been on the car since it was last restored in the early nineties. Having said this the drawings of the one's TRF supply do look as though they have flatter heads. Here's a photo of mine - what do you think?

Cheers,

JEFFR

image.thumb.png.189bce1c4be9c652c6f7d743f6df9f4f.png

Edited by JeffR
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8 minutes ago, JeffR said:

Hi Stuart,

Thank you for your comments. I'd wondered if the pegs are right. They're not newly purchased, they've been on the car since it was last restored in the early nineties. Having said this the drawings of the one's TRF supply do look as though they have flatter heads. Here's a photo of mine - what do you think?

Cheers,

JEFFR

image.thumb.png.189bce1c4be9c652c6f7d743f6df9f4f.png

Yes they are the type normally supplied over here now the originals are like the TRF ones

Stuart.

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1 minute ago, stuart said:

Yes they are the type normally supplied over here now the originals are like the TRF ones

Stuart.

So you think that could make the difference? I'm not sure what the lead time is likely to be from the US at present. Are any available over here?

JEFFR

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You need to have a look at the inside of the hardtop to see if there are witness marks from the studs, that will tell you if it will make a difference 

Stuart

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6 minutes ago, stuart said:

I have some originals but they’re not shiny

Stuart 

CE1A5BD0-6501-4D83-BC3E-83DB4E663EF0.jpeg

Hi Stuart,

The photo really shows how different they are.

Is it necessary to fit these all around the HT or just at the sides. My next task will be to check for witness marks as you suggest. From what I can see the pegs on the rear rail don't go all the way into the receiving holes - I think the draught excluder on the rear seal inhibits this. If I only need a few I may take you up on your kind offer failing any shiny one's being available.

All the best,

JEFFR

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Best to have them all round the rear though the rearmost  ones are the important ones. Check your hardtop first for witness marks as it maybe you only need to re-align those side brackets.

Stuart.

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2 minutes ago, stuart said:

Best to have them all round the rear though the rearmost  ones are the important ones. Check your hardtop first for witness marks as it maybe you only need to re-align those side brackets.

Stuart.

Stuart,

Interesting you say the rear one's are the most important - as they're the ones that don't go all the way into the receiving holes - there's a good 2-3mm to spare. Maybe it's the rear seal stopping it or possibly the cantrails are not engaging sufficiently into the creen stanchions?

The above though, doesn't answer the question as to the sides not lining up - that could well be the pegs as you mention.

JEFFR

 

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2 minutes ago, Lebro said:

I may also have some originals, possibly a bit shinier than Stuarts ! you are welcome to them if they are of any use.

Bob.

Bob,

Thank you very much for your offer. Let me check for witness marks (tomorrow) and I'll get back to you.

Cheers,

JEFF

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Hello All,

Another day in the garage playing with my hardtop.

I did another trial fit of the HT today, to look for witness marks in the Ht receiver holes as an indication that the tenax pegs currently fitted are too long and do not allow the sides of the HT to move inwards sufficiently to allow the bolts for the side brackets to engage with the nuts in the bridge pieces. This involved several sessions of fitting and demounting the hardtop and checking the clearance betwen the body, the receiver holes and the pegs.

From what I can see it looks as though the three pegs on each side of the tub are slightly too long and are not allowing the HT sides to close up to the capping pieces.

See photo attached.

Bob, I may need to take up your offer for some original pegs. I'll PM you.

All the best,

JEFF

image.png.74ad1cc5b991a65c798527895170a4c7.png

Edited by JeffR
duplication of photo
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On 9/3/2020 at 6:20 PM, Lebro said:

I may also have some originals, possibly a bit shinier than Stuarts ! you are welcome to them if they are of any use.

Bob.

Hi Bob,

You may have seen my earlier post today. I'll PM you.

Cheers,

JEFFR

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On mine that I did I managed to get  the pegs To sit in the hardtop holes/recess. 
 

it may be easier to slot the body hole we’re the bridge retainers go to have some movement. 
 

I have to juggle my screen and hardtop fasteners a bit after I’ve had the screen off for racing. But I loose fit everything inc the screen. Then pull everything forward then bolt up the screen stantions first. 
then tighten the rest gradually. In turn. 

60B67CD8-B720-49B8-B866-7027339A1BC4.jpeg

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Hamish,

Thank you for your comments. It’s very interesting to learn the order in which you fasten your top down.

Like you, I find that fastening the three screen brackets first helps position the HT on the tub. Then it’s a matter of adjusting the rear of the HT to get the brackets to line up.

A problem I’ve had in doing this is that for the HT to feel comfortable it’s slightly off two of the three rear bridge pieces. These are fixed to the original drilling’s in the tub. 

With the HT in this position I’ve found that if I give the NS rear corner a good shove forward the NS side of the HT moves forward such that the peg you identified  in my post slots into the receiving hole adjacent to it. Similarly, giving the OS of the ht a good shove from the  rear corner moves that side forward such that I can now bolt the side bracket to its bridge piece.

The conclusion I’ve come to is that I may need to move and re drill the fixing points of the two bridge pieces on the rear frame that no longer line up - they’re about 4mm out. My only concern in doing this is that next time I fit the HT it may line up differently. Such is life.

Cheers,

JEFFR

 

 

 

 

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2 hours ago, Lebro said:

   683753501_LTD1.thumb.jpg.d7c0c4a8d02f25874cbb3bcbe52889e1.jpg   LTD2.thumb.jpg.039848be07a2240e34dcd63d17288d03.jpg

These are my selection Jeff, I assume you want the threaded type, rather than woodscrew. I will pop some in the post next week.

Bob.

Hi Bob,

Thank you for searching them out. Yes, it's the threaded ones I need. Maximum 6 for the sides if you can spare them.

I'm very grateful for your assistance with this. I was thinking that when I take the current pegs out I'll try to fit of the HT without any in the sides. That should give an indication if it's the pegs that are the problem.

Regards,

JEFF

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