Acuspark distributor

[Casar66]

I want to spend my Lucas distributor an overhaulin. Maybe give it to the distributor doctor. 

But that need a little time. For that I am wondering if the accuspark distributor could be a reliable and cheap solution. Who has that part in use?

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

 

[Casar66]

Ok, did not niticed that topic. But no post in that topic described longer in use experiences with it. 

[Casar66]

I could not find a distributor that's fit to my car. I have a Lucas 22D6 without vacuum. But the accuspark ones all have that vacuum box. Could I use them, and if yes - what to do with the vacuum?

[harlequin]

I have no experience of an Acuspark distributor but I do have a 123 that has a vacuum connection that I don't have connected, the car runs fine.

In fact a PI TR has the vacuum module on the distributor but it' was not connected from the factory 

George 

[Casar66]

Are you sure? I think that the PI distributors have no vacuum box, eg the 22D6 41219B

[harlequin]

Yes I believe most have the module but it's not connected, I think it's not used because there is nowhere suitable that will produce enough vacuum and it was probably cheaper for Triumph to buy distributors  with the module.

I'm sure someone who is more knowledgeable on PI stuff will give a clearer explanation 

George 

[Derekmcallister]

I used an Accuspark distributor for a season while my original distributor was out to be repaired/rebuilt. It ran really well on my carburated '74; note that I did have a vacuum source for the advance. You will lose some advance if you simply cap the module but you can probably compensate/compromise by adjusting (advancing) your timing slightly. I'm not an expert on advance curves though...

[Casar66]

The advance curve should be correct. I can't drive my TR (or anything else) knowing that something is not correct. I am German (more more less)! 

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

11 hours ago, Casar66 said:

Are you sure? I think that the PI distributors have no vacuum box, eg the 22D6 41219B

TR6 PI from 1973 used Lucas distributor 41501 which did have a vacuum unit fitted.

Peter W

[DRD]

10 hours ago, Derekmcallister said:

I used an Accuspark distributor for a season while my original distributor was out to be repaired/rebuilt. It ran really well on my carburated '74; note that I did have a vacuum source for the advance. You will lose some advance if you simply cap the module but you can probably compensate/compromise by adjusting (advancing) your timing slightly. I'm not an expert on advance curves though...

Same here, I used it for a couple of months and it seemed OK. Sold it on eBay when I got my rebuilt Lucas one back from the Doc.

[Casar66]

Quote

TR6 PI from 1973 used Lucas distributor 41501 which did have a vacuum unit fitted.

And how or better with what you that vacuum unit connected?

[AarhusTr6]

I did exact same, put and electron one in whilst Martin overhauled by original.  Martin also added an vacuum advance and did a re-curve, lovely job.

[stuart]

3 hours ago, Casar66 said:

And how or better with what you that vacuum unit connected?

The vacuum advance is never connected on PI engines no matter whether the dizzy is fitted with it or not, you simply ignore it and time the engine as normal.

Stuart.

[Casar66]

ok. That means that I have only to take care about the right curve.

thanks all!

[TriumphV8]

I have a cheap dizzy for the TR6 and one for the V8.

The TR6 is with points.

 

I have that with a full ignition wiring for testing purpose ready to use and

it does a pretty good job for years.

 

If worried about advamce curve I would mark the 30 degree full advance on the pulley

and check what the dizzy will do at high revs. If necessary I would adjust the dizzy at idle

to achieve something between 30 to 32 degrees full advance in total.

Rest does not matter for a limited usage.

 

Part throttle advance is for crispy engine response and fuel economy,

so can be left open. It does no harm to the engine if not in use.

It requires a special pickup point at the carbs not to let advance at idle

but provides correct additional advance when throttle plates are a bit open.

 

That is why PI does not have that and can not be added easily.

123tune has a function to "simulate" such a pickup point that

part throttle advance is possible with PI and Weber DCOE.

Unfortunately 123tune is very, very lazy on reaction on changing vaccuum and so you can

add this function to PI and Weber but do not get completely happy because if you put the pedal down

123 is too lazy to follow the new condition quickly enough and fuel pinking will occure.

[Casar66]

And how many degrees is the range of advance at crankshaft without vacuum?

[Casar66]

today I got the powerspark Delco distributor from simonbbc. I want to change it and see how it works with a greater range of advance than my original one. But I cannot find any hint or advice on the cap or on the distributor itself to number the cylinders. Who knows it? 

[astontr6]

On 5/8/2020 at 8:43 PM, Casar66 said:

Are you sure? I think that the PI distributors have no vacuum box, eg the 22D6 41219B

My 1973 TR6 also has the vacuum unit but I sealed the take off with a bung. The dizzy is the original one!

Bruce.

[RobH]

4 hours ago, Casar66 said:

today I got the powerspark Delco distributor from simonbbc. I want to change it and see how it works with a greater range of advance than my original one. But I cannot find any hint or advice on the cap or on the distributor itself to number the cylinders. Who knows it? 

Well you don't seem to have had any replies to that so I can only suggest you do it from first principles;

  Install the dizzy and note where the rotor arm contact is pointing with cylinder 1 at TDC on the compression stroke - this is number 1 plug lead. The others are numbered anticlockwise from that when looking down on the top of the dizzy  -  1,5,3,6,2,4.  

[Casar66]

so I did. And it runs. The advance works fine. But the ignition itself ist not good. Feels like missfireing from idle on. Above 3000 revs is nearly underivable. 

[DRD]

14 hours ago, Casar66 said:

so I did. And it runs. The advance works fine. But the ignition itself ist not good. Feels like missfireing from idle on. Above 3000 revs is nearly underivable. 

Check it again you must have some of the leads the wrong way round.

Or maybe if it's a points dizzy have you set the gap properly?

Edited May 21, 2020 by DRD

[Casar66]

the leads are all on the right places, I hav not changed the gap of the points (it a pick up), it it a p&p distributor. Anyway, I will check again today. Today is a bank holiday here but tomorrow I will get a new coil, maybe it is a bit old. Otherwise it works with the original distributor and pickup perfect.

[DRD]

1 hour ago, Casar66 said:

the leads are all on the right places, I hav not changed the gap of the points (it a pick up), it it a p&p distributor. Anyway, I will check again today. Today is a bank holiday here but tomorrow I will get a new coil, maybe it is a bit old. Otherwise it works with the original distributor and pickup perfect.

If the old one works OK than the coil should be fine. Does the new one have points or is it an electronic one?

[Casar66]

It is an electronic one. I  try to understand it. Is it right or wrong, that cylinder 1 and cylinder 6 have the same ignition timing, just with an offset of 360 degree?

2nd question: my coil is a Lucas gold. I have read that the primary resistance of that coil is around 3 Ohm (other sources say 2,8 Ohm). My coil has 3,4 Ohm, sometimes 3,3 or 3,6. I do not know why it is different time by time, but is it possible that a coil get more resistance just by gaining age?

Edited May 21, 2020 by Casar66