stuart Posted September 15, 2020 Report Share Posted September 15, 2020 Well done, looks good. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted September 15, 2020 Report Share Posted September 15, 2020 Hi Rich, all those questions and heart ache have paid dividends - nice job. Ā Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mike3md Posted September 22, 2020 Report Share Posted September 22, 2020 One small point that hasn't been mentioned about the original "tuck in" front fixing arrangement is that it is much easier to store the surrey fabric in the boot, useful when boot and rear bench space may be at a premium on long tours. Incidentally wind noise can be greatly reduced by feeding a length of small section glazing gasket under the lip, removing in seconds when you need to do the tuck. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rvwp Posted September 23, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2020 Horses for courses! The Surrey top fits very neatly in the back of the boot.Ā Rolled up It doesn't take up much more room than the frame anyway and does feel very secure when fitted. AsĀ I do not intend to do any long tours with my car it's fine for me. However with this upgrade by using the originalĀ 4A Ā soft top parts, windscreen, capping and rail, for anyĀ future ownerĀ if stowage isĀ a concern, then a replacement Surrey top windscreen capping and a standard Surrey top would return it to original styleĀ fitting CheersĀ Rich Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted September 23, 2020 Report Share Posted September 23, 2020 I seem to remember someone used a couple of straps fixed to the inside of the bootlid frame to take a rolled up Surrey with frame inside. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
qkingston Posted February 17, 2021 Report Share Posted February 17, 2021 So after much research and looking at the various approaches taken, I opted for the Revington modification to the TR4a windscreen frame to provide indented locking cams for a Spitfire soft-top frame bar. The Moss 4a Surrey frame was modified with the fwd tubes being shortened and then tapped to M10 both ends (pinched from Damson6 - thank you!), a length of 10mm studding connects the 2 parts. I had to the change the angle of the flattened ends of the frame legs slightly and also flattened the outer 'ear' of the Spitfire header rail to give a better location for the pins on the end of the Surrey frame legs. I also used the hard rubber bushes from the 4a arrangement to fit to the pins and locate in the header rail ears. The added benefit is that I now have adjustment at the front and back of the frame David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Malbaby Posted February 17, 2021 Report Share Posted February 17, 2021 Rich.....is your soft top fabric off the shelf or custom made. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted February 18, 2021 Report Share Posted February 18, 2021 15 hours ago, qkingston said: So after much research and looking at the various approaches taken, I opted for the Revington modification to the TR4a windscreen frame to provide indented locking cams for a Spitfire soft-top frame bar. The Moss 4a Surrey frame was modified with the fwd tubes being shortened and then tapped to M10 both ends (pinched from Damson6 - thank you!), a length of 10mm studding connects the 2 parts. I had to the change the angle of the flattened ends of the frame legs slightly and also flattened the outer 'ear' of the Spitfire header rail to give a better location for the pins on the end of the Surrey frame legs. I also used the hard rubber bushes from the 4a arrangement to fit to the pins and locate in the header rail ears. The added benefit is that I now have adjustment at the front and back of the frame David I think you may find you`ll struggle to engage the header rail with the frame with that sort of fixing at the front once you have the fabric attached to the header rail, the idea of the "Z" engagement with the Revington frame is so you just turn the header down around and engage with the frame which is already adjusted to suit otherwise there will be a lot of faffing about which isnt good when its come into rain heavily. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
qkingston Posted February 18, 2021 Report Share Posted February 18, 2021 ok thanks Stuart, I'll see how I get on, but there may need to be a mod2 :) David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
meesonia Posted June 7, 2021 Report Share Posted June 7, 2021 Hi picking my through this thread as Iām at the same point, but my question is does the door seal fall outside the Surrey Windscreen Capping? Looking at Tom Frremonts pic it does. But when the Top Cover isnāt on do we just leave the seal edge showing or is there a way of finishing it? My pics below. Thanks Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rvwp Posted June 11, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2021 Hi Ian, Sadly you should have left the seal protruding at the top, the surplusĀ Ā can then be squashed under the capping above the seal when it's popped riveted down to make a neat finish. SorryĀ Rich Ā Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted June 11, 2021 Report Share Posted June 11, 2021 (edited) Hi Rich, very interesting to see the elastic on your photos from Sept. 2020 which Stuart indicated on another post about the original TR4A soft top! Looks like same-same, thank you for that photo. Marco Edited June 11, 2021 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
meesonia Posted June 11, 2021 Report Share Posted June 11, 2021 12 hours ago, rvwp said: Hi Ian, Sadly you should have left the seal protruding at the top, the surplusĀ Ā can then be squashed under the capping above the seal when it's popped riveted down to make a neat finish. SorryĀ Rich Ā Itās ok Rich I can still do that, the angle of the pic does quite show the seal protruding above the screen frame, and the pic with the cappingĀ on, the capping isnāt fully down, just sat on. However if I tuck the seal under the capping it pulls it away from the glass at the top. Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted June 12, 2021 Report Share Posted June 12, 2021 (edited) 13 hours ago, meesonia said: Itās ok Rich I can still do that, the angle of the pic does quite show the seal protruding above the screen frame, and the pic with the cappingĀ on, the capping isnāt fully down, just sat on. However if I tuck the seal under the capping it pulls it away from the glass at the top. Ian You need to slit the top of the rubber so the bit that is in the channel goes up under the capping but the flap then continues up to meet the roof (If fitted) thus getting over the gap. Stuart. Edited June 12, 2021 by stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
meesonia Posted June 12, 2021 Report Share Posted June 12, 2021 Thanks Stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
qkingston Posted June 8, 2022 Report Share Posted June 8, 2022 Not having the benefit of an original screen capping for my 4a Surrey conversion, I realise there should be a popper stud at the front edges; have others just fitted an additional popper stud directly onto the screen frame at the top corner? Also when fitting the new Surrey top, how best to stretch the material to get a good tight fit, some gentle warming? How best to do this? Many thanks David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted June 8, 2022 Report Share Posted June 8, 2022 11 hours ago, qkingston said: Not having the benefit of an original screen capping for my 4a Surrey conversion, I realise there should be a popper stud at the front edges; have others just fitted an additional popper stud directly onto the screen frame at the top corner? Also when fitting the new Surrey top, how best to stretch the material to get a good tight fit, some gentle warming? How best to do this? Many thanks David What capping are you using then? Even the repro Surrey type have a hole on the end for a popper, theres not quite as much of an "ear" as the original but it will do for a location for a popper. I use a fan heater sat facing upwards between the two seats and drape the material across the frame to warm it up enough to stretch. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted June 9, 2022 Report Share Posted June 9, 2022 Hi David, Little Jim,Down Under; related a story to stretch his fabric. He hung it on the washing line in the blazing Oz sunshine and tied a couple of Koalas to the bottom to pull it down. Ā Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
qkingston Posted June 9, 2022 Report Share Posted June 9, 2022 23 minutes ago, RogerH said: Hi David, Little Jim,Down Under; related a story to stretch his fabric. He hung it on the washing line in the blazing Oz sunshine and tied a couple of Koalas to the bottom to pull it down. Ā Roger Thanks Roger, I'll see what I can do. Do you think small dogs might do the trick? David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
qkingston Posted June 9, 2022 Report Share Posted June 9, 2022 11 hours ago, stuart said: What capping are you using then? Even the repro Surrey type have a hole on the end for a popper, theres not quite as much of an "ear" as the original but it will do for a location for a popper. I use a fan heater sat facing upwards between the two seats and drape the material across the frame to warm it up enough to stretch. Stuart. Hi Stuart, It's the TR6 capping as I modified my screen top to take the cam locks of a 6 header rail David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted June 9, 2022 Report Share Posted June 9, 2022 Hi DavidĀ a couple of Toy St.Bernards with small barrels should sort it, Ā Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted June 9, 2022 Report Share Posted June 9, 2022 4 hours ago, qkingston said: Hi Stuart, It's the TR6 capping as I modified my screen top to take the cam locks of a 6 header rail David Then you shouldnt need the two studs as the soft top material should finish over the header rail the same as if it was finished for a soft top car. Sturt Quote Link to post Share on other sites
qkingston Posted June 9, 2022 Report Share Posted June 9, 2022 ok thanks Stuart, that makes sense Quote Link to post Share on other sites
qkingston Posted June 10, 2022 Report Share Posted June 10, 2022 So I have the Surrey pretty much fitted - phots to followĀ (header rail conversion) has anyone got a phot of where the centre side popper goes on the soft top above the window; how high up/low down does it go? I've seen some phots with the popper on the hood section, others at the top of the flap below the hood, which is correct? Many thanks David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Besalu Posted September 1, 2022 Report Share Posted September 1, 2022 On 5/17/2020 at 8:59 AM, rvwp said: Hi Guys, At last I've come to decision on how to convert my TR4A from a Soft top to a Surry. I have read many comments of the attachment of the front of the Surry top at the front using the original Triumph 'tuck under' method which seems to be problematic. (sorry Roger) Having looked at the TR5/6 hood front rail method which also requires an upgrade to a TR5/6 windscreen and capping, all getting expensive!Ā However, taking note ofĀ Stuart's concern over the way the TR4A centre work and would not pull the rail down in the same way as the TR5/6 1/4 turn clamps, I shall still use the TR4A front rail with modifications. My method is to useĀ TR4A rail combined with Stuart'sĀ 'Z' brackets on the end of theĀ H frame sticks. After locating the rail by angling up at 60 degrees, as suggested, then locating the rail with the catches, two bolts are then entered through the existing hardtop fixing holes in the frame to lock down the rail securely in a similar way to the TR4/5 catches. To provide this facility a hole has to be drilled in the TR4A rail in line with these hardtop fixing holes, say 5/16, (M8) and a nut welded to the inside of the rail. This has to be positioned carefully so that when feeding the bolt through the frame it locates this nut. I intend using a SS threaded bolt made up with a SS wing nut for ease of use. Both available cheaply from Toolstation (M8). The end of the bolt will have a turned down portion at the end to aid entry into the nut. The cost of this modification if you have a TR4A soft top rail is only the cost of the SS bolt and nut. Of course you may have to buy a new fabric Surry top if you cannot unpick the front to provide material to fold around the head rail. I have to buy one anyway. Trials on the bench with myĀ TR4A windscreen is very positive and it does work. I don't believe that the time to put the Surry top up using this method will differ at all from using the TR4/5 rail. In any case using either method if caught in a sudden downpour means you are going to get wet! Any comments? Rich Ā Very informative Rich and just what i was looking for. I bought my 4a a few months ago and it has been with a mechanic since then. It is almost ready and i am just waiting for the backlight to be re-sprayed and for the glass to be re-fitted with new rubbers. Once i have the car (very soon i hope) my first job is to fit a soft top. I have quotes from all of the providers and looking at the exploded image from Moss i think i understand where the locating pins go on the backlight (62) and on the capper (59). However my capper doesnāt seem to have fittings on the ends for the stud and screw (68 & 69). Ā My car was imported to Spain from the UK in 1976 and converted to LHD. So i am not sure if the capper is actually an original 4a or a later model. Some of the elements on the dash are TR6 so not sure if this is also TR6? I am a tin-basher by trade so i need to take the capper off anyways for a bit of titivation and try and polish it up. If i can manage to tidy it up i will of course keep this original one and attempt to follow your example: My method is to useĀ TR4A rail combined with Stuart'sĀ 'Z' brackets on the end of theĀ H frame sticks. After locating the rail by angling up at 60 degrees, as suggested, then locating the rail with the catches, two bolts are then entered through the existing hardtop fixing holes in the frame to lock down the rail securely in a similar way to the TR4/5 catches. Would anyone by any chance have a more detailed step by step description/photos for a novice like myself? Many thanks, Richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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