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my new gearbox? (Mazda MX-5 to TR)


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Hi,

hopefully it gets warmer in the garage now, so I will put all together again.

Yesterday I asked my friend Dieter to spend some time for me on his hudge lathe.

He's a real enthusiast: he bought it new for the price of a small car only for his hobby!

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Very shure I will never have to change the clutch plate anytime in my livetime,

but for the next owner Dieter modified the flywheel to fit a new clutch new plate without the need to modify the rievets.

ABLVV86-0rDR_ErICwk6pXXnOAZVIDvaaJonUQsj

Now I'm thinking of changing from the B&B new design to a Sachs 30 82 100 041....but the forces now I need on the pedal are already very low.

Costs only 90-115 €...

Ciao, Marco

 

 

 

Edited by Z320
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Ups, the adaptors are already delivered, I'm really surprised about the laser cut surface! Tomorrow will be first fit, please keep fingers crossed for me.  

Thanks Russell and Andi, thank you very much, all worked well, fit was 100% on first attempt, the 8 mm drills are exaxtly to the point they have to be for the 5/16" bolts! Btw, the bar is on

Talking of gearbox changes, back in the 8o`s when I was involved with Jaguar racing we converted a V12 XJS from a GM 400 auto box to a Cosworth T6 manual 5 speed by a cut and shut of the two bell hous

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Glad you found someone with a lathe big enough to create the relief recess for the friction plate rivets.  This is clearly not for you but for those who come in the future.   Nice to have access to such a machine and somewhere to keep it.

It all looks like it is going in the correct direction.

 

While we are talking flywheels......Here is another "Flywheel" - Memories of The Open Road.

If you can find a copy I recommend this as brilliant enthusiast writing, done to keep their little grey cells working.

IMG_5597.thumb.jpeg.f8e8ceb805a3ef9644eae56819c16dcc.jpeg

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Hi all,

the Sachs ...041 arrived today, weight and construction is mostly the same like the B&B "new design",

that came with my TR4A, apart from the some less stronger spring. This is why hopefully the pre-load

of my hydraulic release unit should be the same +/- 1 mm.

ABLVV869Ka5pYWut3XhpJO_1Dy7liWxqRuTUVi7I

Flywheel in position again with greetings to the next owner, I hope never to touch this again.

ABLVV87_28y-DUCcsDOlRkj7Q84eYaVy9allqLUu

With the clutch cover installed I checked 3 times the pre-load (how deep is the spring in the gb bell VS how deep is the release bearing in the gb bell)

ABLVV85SF1_wS2aJoztWWPG-NkYshlVVxVJVNpRM

I need about 8 mm pre-load to avoid the piston to be pressed out, I measured 11.5 - 12 mm, all OK!

Oh, I could clean the silencer?!

Ciao, Marco

Edited by Z320
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Nice progress.  Thanks for the details on the clutch.   It gives good information for us to change from the old recommended B&B.

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Hi Peter,

you are welcome!

Shure you know my post about the measurements Jockem did for our hydraulic concentric release bearing project.

The Sachs 3082 100 041 is about the same as the B&B "old design" and about 15% less force as the B&B / ap "new design".

With my crane the gb is in now. My clutch is now "ultimative easy" to operate..., with the seats in I will measure.

ABLVV84WBsaNICpKUT668_Hy6lmW8QTg4IYXMaBm

Ciao, Marco

Edited by Z320
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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi,

last modification with the new gerbox tunnel and H-frame installed:

made a new Z-shaped extension 10 mm shorter (only 40 mm now), turned it pointing upside and welded it in the shaft.

ABLVV87kteq1S-qdgxDgQVXpfxw6c-GPRZmYJyim

Fitted the new tunnel again, closed the hole in the console and have the car ready for a Ausfahrt tomorrow.

ABLVV85Wlb9HTaCmKcEv7YMUnZFAP19V98abhf1l

To be true to myself:

this whole job was no fun, it needed too much time and so I hope I can make a brake from other TR-project.

I will scrap some parts and box some projects, some ideas I will give a long time brake. 

As my lovely wife states "don't repair things that aint broken", yes I know....

Ciao, Marco

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18 hours ago, Z320 said:

Hi,

last modification with the new gerbox tunnel and H-frame installed:

made a new Z-shaped extension 10 mm shorter (only 40 mm now), turned it pointing upside and welded it in the shaft.

ABLVV87kteq1S-qdgxDgQVXpfxw6c-GPRZmYJyim

Fitted the new tunnel again, closed the hole in the console and have the car ready for a Ausfahrt tomorrow.

ABLVV85Wlb9HTaCmKcEv7YMUnZFAP19V98abhf1l

To be true to myself:

this whole job was no fun, it needed too much time and so I hope I can make a brake from other TR-project.

I will scrap some parts and box some projects, some ideas I will give a long time brake. 

As my lovely wife states "don't repair things that aint broken", yes I know....

Ciao, Marco

Sometimes its good to walk away from things for a while your right Marco, I would still like to see your supercharger project finished sometime though. Good luck with the Ausfahrt tomorrow.

Stuart.

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Hi Stuart,

the car runs well - and indeed the SC project is sadly boxed for a not fixed time.

Today we have been out for a 110 miles tour and while I have been very pleased with the MX5 gearbox #1

I'm even MUCH more pleased with #2! It is very easy to shift, 1-2 AND 5-R is a dream; I see 4 posible reasons:

1st: #2 gearbox is better than #1, they run about 130,000 and 160,000 km?

2nd: the Z extension is MUCH shorter and the shifter less twisted for 1-2 and 5-R?

3rd: the rear bearing I added on recommendation from Nick Jones causes the improvement? 

4rd: I notice what I expected to safe me from being disappointed (cognitive dissonance reduction)?

All butyl mats are all still where I glued them.

Ciao, Marco

Edited by Z320
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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi,

to fit the MX5 NA gearbox on a TR2, 3 and 6 (diameter of the starter ring = 300 mm) regard this thread, please

Ciao, Marco

 

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  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

gearbox #1 is in pieces now again

AP1GczOX1TAP13qnqPAdQwBqSNvXfduXdye1_GM5

AP1GczN3kWJDgAPD6EQjQEM78JdVmqCrgC3nwckO

to do the gearbox #2 modification with the shifter housing (moving it about 32 mm forward)

AP1GczNvtiqlagP0nkuKYW7WosU5SqcK4oOUBgvY

and finally sell gearbox #1

edit: rear bearing added again, shaft slides easy

AP1GczOhXhNe6PCP4l1MeAHOFL8yV_BFupo6gUNN

Edited by Z320
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  • 6 months later...

Hi,

being a bit lazy with working on TR "issues" this summer

I thought it would now be the time to make gearbox #1 ready to sell.

Next thing is the speedo drive, which I make slightly different from the 1st one.

AP1GczOhj3oQfzaru2Dn32ps4O0xWyA8aKUdOGqk

Using a printer belt and cogs to speed the cable up to TR revs is the same, this spins surprisingly free (with the shafts in mini ball bearings).

AP1GczPDB9Llyr8lvB3FAUuK4tady0EAIAm1r6MS

That’s new: I need no reverse sprockets, the cable goes out above the frame and Crossmember (the wooden block) to the right side

(in my TR4A to the left side and below the frame) with the speedo cable now under the passenger's carpet (LHD).

And the fittings are bronze and soldered (not glued)

AP1GczMpORZUI4j-1kp1qseNKkB2OAoQuQ7AqWVv

This is the situation on my TR4A, the cable goes down under the gearbox to the left side.

AP1GczNF2sIjevuSE9dQAC9CZioHLs7pUFCKCnui

The steel will be chemical browned next and the belt / cogs will become closed.

Ciao, Marco

Edited by Z320
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1 hour ago, Z320 said:

Hi,

being a bit lazy with working on TR "issues" this summer

I thought it would now be the time to make gearbox #1 ready to sell.

Next thing is the speedo drive, which I make slightly different from the 1st one.

AP1GczOhj3oQfzaru2Dn32ps4O0xWyA8aKUdOGqk

Using a printer belt and cogs to speed the cable up to TR revs is the same, this spins surprisingly free (with the shafts in roller bearings).

AP1GczPDB9Llyr8lvB3FAUuK4tady0EAIAm1r6MS

That’s new: I need no reverse sprockets, the cable goes out above the frame and Crossmember (the wooden block) to the right side

(in my TR4A to the left side and below the frame) with the speedo cable now under the passenger's carpet (LHD).

And the fittings are bronze and soldered (not glued)

AP1GczMpORZUI4j-1kp1qseNKkB2OAoQuQ7AqWVv

This is the situation on my TR4A, the cable goes down under the gearbox to the left side.

AP1GczNF2sIjevuSE9dQAC9CZioHLs7pUFCKCnui

The steel will be chemical browned next and the belt / cogs will become closed.

Ciao, Marco

Great bit of "Get yourself out of trouble" Engineering there Marco well done.

Stuart.

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Hi Stuart,

thank you for your laud, I love to do such things.

Making them is alway a creative act and gives me quiet and peaceful moments in my workshop.

Ready now, browned and locked now, I'm comming one step closer to the real project which I want to continue...

AP1GczO0464vTWRIWm_N-3Hav2-dfckEAXyJ7EQ6

Ciao, Marco

 

 

 

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