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Hi Folks,

Another small job I've found while putting the body of my TR3 back together following its recent respray, is that there's quite some play in the hinge pins on the driver's door, particularly from the bottom one. This is after checking all the screws for the hinges are secure and that there's no movement from the A post.

Question is, do I replace the hinges in total or just the hinge pins? The hinges are the brass type rectangular ones as fitted to the TR2 and early TR3. From what I've read it's usually the pins and not the hinges that wear the most, so I'm hoping that just replacement of the pins should be sufficient. Apart from that the cost of replacement hinges from the usuals is a King's ransom at over £53 each. For these reasons plus also wishing to maintain the original equipment, I'd prefer just to replace the pins if possible.

I've searched the Forum and not been able to find anything on how to replace these pins. There's plenty on the 3A and 4/4A but these are different style hinges. Could anyone advise on the best way to tackle this job and whether the pins should be taken out from the top or the bottom of the hinge? I'd prefer not to apply heat as the hinges have been resprayed along with the doors - not that this is a major factor, especially if I have to replace the hinges in total.

Thanks all in anticipation.

JEFF

 

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Hi Jeff,

You will find the pins are bigger diameter one end than the other  - usually the top.  So push out through top of hinge.  I expect you will be lucky to save the paint finish.

I put hinge pins in the TR2-3 parts catalogue but I know they were 1/4" diameter to be a direct fitment  pt no 602065X  see item 4

https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/body-chassis/doors-fittings/doors-fittings-tr2-3a-1953-62.html

Do It Yourself.

Just done this on the brass hinges for my brother's TR2.  He is doing serious bodywork and wanted the hinges 'as new' to give a fighting chance of getting the doors in the right place. - Outcome was excellent.

Photo the hinges before you knock out the pins as they will re-assemble with the top door leaf half on the bottom A post leaf half - ask me how I know....

I drifted out the old  worn 1/4" diameter pins. Thankfully most of the wear was on the steel pin rather than in the brass bits.

Bought a length of 6.5mm silver steel. (I could have bought 1/4" pins or steel but I feared that would be a loose fit in his worn hinges) 

Under a fiver did 4 hinges https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SILVER-STEEL-BAR-6-5mm-dia-13-long/230289973364?hash=item359e5a2074:g:fkoAAMXQn11RfmoX

I had considered using stainless but I could only find that in 7mm - Useful if your hinges are REALLY worn, but needs more reaming.  https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stainless-Steel-Stange-4mm-17mm-1-4301-V2A-304-round-Rod-Profile-bar-2-Meter/264459890707?var=564134807356&hash=item3d9309b013:m:m8jlNo1mUB9J-meqsNE5VVw

Slowly and carefully eamed the holes in the hinges to suit the 6.5mm silver steel - leaving the ones in the fixed leaf (one screwed to A post) slightly tighter to grip the pin once tapped in.  I have already got an adjustable reamer for this.

Peen the end end of the pin with a ball pein hammer, so it does not fall through.

I also made some shim washers to fit between the leaves to remove top-bottom movement. (vertical slop)  0.010" I think - measure before you knock the pins out with a feeler, if you intend to do this.  I made my own but maybe these might work  https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/A2-Stainless-Steel-Shim-Washers-Shims-0-1mm-0-2mm-0-5mm-1mm-Thick-DIN-988/254018021604?hash=item3b24a768e4:m:may428q-lDHNWICz7gz71SQ

A friend has drilled and fitted grease nipples to his hinges, but I am not that enthusiastic and it just another greasy item on the car.

Cheers

Peter W

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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Hi Peter,

Thank you very much for your comprehensive response and explanation - just what I was looking for - even better as you've included the various source references.

Your posting also fills a gap in the knowledge base of the website - so should prove useful to others searching the files for similar help

Now to get on the with job.

All the best,

JEFF

 

 

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Hi chaps,

I have been thinking of replacing the hinge pins on my 3 too, so was very interested in your comments and approach.   My doors drop so much that they are taking the paint off the sills. So doing this repair would save me a lot of heartache.   One question, and apologies if it seems a bit stupid,  but to repair/replace the pins, I assume you take the doors off?  If so, can you just unscrew the 4 screws/hinge shown in the photo (are there captive nuts in the A post?).

Yours, Laurence 

20200501_211216.jpg

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Yes the hinges need to be removed.  Unscrew the slotted screws which screw into caged nuts.   Problem may be unscrewing the screws . I have found an impact screw driver the most useful tool for that job.

this sort of thing. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/US-PRO-7PC-IMPACT-SCREWDRIVER-SET-1622/264684834061?hash=item3da0720d0d:g:QEwAAOSwFnlegzQW

cheers

Peter W

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FWIW, when I rebuilt my TR3a I replaced all the pins in the hinges by reaming to 9mm and using 9mm silver steel rod. 

I also drilled and tapped the hinges to accept a grease nipple so that I can periodically lubricate them. 

Rgds Ian

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Regular lubrication certainly. The later type hinges on my car were all pivoting on the thin part of the hinge top and bottom, having seized many years ago in the main body. After welding the pins at each end I had to heat the hinge to cherry red to get them moving again in the main part and they will now get a regular dose of the oil can.

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Hi Peter,

Wow, that's cerainly some wear on the pin you show there! How difficult was it to drift out?

The photo of the tools you used is interesting. Presumably that's a hand reamer you show there.

Thanks for all your advice and assistance - very helpful.

Regards,

JEFF

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