stillp Posted April 30, 2020 Report Share Posted April 30, 2020 Catching up on some long-neglected tasks: I've changed the gearbox/OD oil from EP80/90 GL4 to Penrite GB40. Quite a lot of sludge came out with the old oil and the recess in the brass OD plug was full. Found the elusive water leak, which was the block drain tap. Probably repairable but a new one is only £7.50, so ordered a new one. I'll need to buy a 1/12" UNF tap to clean out the hole. While looking for something else, I found an unused sump gasket, and since the front end is already up on the elevating ramps I thought I might as well drop the sump and change the gasket, which I think is the cause of one of the many oil leaks on my engine. I think the main leak is from the timing cover though, so I should probably take the radiator out and fix that while the engine is drained. What next I wonder? Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rodbr Posted April 30, 2020 Report Share Posted April 30, 2020 Hi Pete, I would be careful about the "new one" as they have a tendency to leak if we are talking the taper one. It is worth taking it apart and lapping the surfaces to get the best seal possible. I would take to opportunity to change the crankshaft oil seal with a double lip Viton type. Be prepared to spend some time beating the flange particularly the bolt holes which tend to became bevelled over time from over tightening. Rod Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted April 30, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2020 Thanks Rod, the old one was leaking, so if the new one does as well I'm only worse off by a few quid! I couldn't find a good spring for the old one, or I would have lapped it again. Who stocks those double lip seals for the front of the crank? I guess I might need to change the crankshaft pulley as well. Yes, I remember spending a lot of time getting the flanges flat when I rebuilt this engine in 1989. It shouldn't need so much work this time, but I'll check it. Cheers Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rodbr Posted May 1, 2020 Report Share Posted May 1, 2020 Hi Pete, try the following: https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/Seals-Viton-Rubber/c19_4462/index.html?page=1 you can find a slightly narrower seal that fits and IMHO is a better option both in material and quality. I only wanted to do this once! Rod Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted May 1, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2020 Thanks Rod. Is it the first one on that page? Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted May 1, 2020 Report Share Posted May 1, 2020 If the crank pulley is grooved fit a speedisleeve. I can search out the number if you require it - I think CR 99175 is what I used last year on a TR2 engine with a very grooved front pulley. https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/m.html?_ssn=worldofbearings&LH_PrefLoc=&_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=99175&_sacat=0 Cheers Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted May 1, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2020 1 hour ago, stillp said: Thanks Rod. Is it the first one on that page? Pete That was a silly question, sorry! Is it this one Rod? https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p305595/SKF-CR17381-Double-Lip-Viton-Rotary-Shaft-Seal-1.75x2.502x0.313-inch/product_info.html?backstep=1 4 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: If the crank pulley is grooved fit a speedisleeve. I can search out the number if you require it - I think CR 99175 is what I used last year on a TR2 engine with a very grooved front pulley. https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/m.html?_ssn=worldofbearings&LH_PrefLoc=&_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=99175&_sacat=0 Cheers Peter W That's a lot cheaper than from the usual suspects Peter, could you confirm the number please? Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted May 1, 2020 Report Share Posted May 1, 2020 1 hour ago, stillp said: That was a silly question, sorry! Is it this one Rod? https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p305595/SKF-CR17381-Double-Lip-Viton-Rotary-Shaft-Seal-1.75x2.502x0.313-inch/product_info.html?backstep=1 That's a lot cheaper than from the usual suspects Peter, could you confirm the number please? Pete Yes SKF CR 99175 is right and that is where I bought it last year to fit an original front crank pulley hub of TR2-4A. The 99174 is the same diameter but shorter, so not so easy to use as you have to get the thing pushed on to the correct depth. OFF TOPIC - If you have the MGB front pulley/damper conversion without the tube spacer you will need something else and a different front seal. od 2.5" id 1.375"(?) - You'd need to measure the MGB pulley seal land. Peter W PS I think the CR 17381 double lip seal that Rod has guided you to is correct to replace the Triumph 104662 front seal of same engine. - Double check!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted June 19, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2020 I finally finished these tasks, and managed 50 miles or so before the rain started. Pleased to report that the timing cover doesn't seem to leak, either from the crankshaft seal or around the outside, and neither does the sump. The water drain tap leaked a little until I taught it a lesson with a small hammer, just to drive the taper home a bit tighter. The Speedisleeve went on easily and gave a nice surface for the Viton seal to run on. Unfortunately the Woodruff key was badly worn (the dog bolt was not very tight - it is now) and the replacement I bought was the wrong size, now corrected. I've also upgraded the headlamps and stop/tail lamps to LEDs, so the dynamo will have an easier life, if this rain ever stops and we're allowed out again. Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted June 23, 2020 Report Share Posted June 23, 2020 (edited) Pete, get out there now it is 30 degrees and see if it overheats! cheers Peter W PS the beauty of our country is that we have weather not just a boring old climate. Edited June 23, 2020 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted June 23, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2020 10 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: Pete, get out there now it is 30 degrees and see if it overheats! Will do! The aircon has packed up in my Focus... Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted June 23, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2020 Managed a decent run - about 60 miles. No sign of overheating, no oil around the timing cover. I checked and set the valve clearances, and it's a bit tappety now so I'll do them again. I think I should grind a feeler gauge down to the width of the valve stem, then the indent on the rocker face won't matter! The overdrive is better than it was with 80W/90GL4 in it, but still a bit sluggish when really hot - takes a couple of seconds to engage. Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted June 23, 2020 Report Share Posted June 23, 2020 "I think I should grind a feeler gauge down to the width of the valve stem, then the indent on the rocker face won't matter!" Or buy an SPQR tappet adjuster. Cheap as chips on Ebay. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted June 24, 2020 Report Share Posted June 24, 2020 How do they work then, don't you still need a feeler gauge ? Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
james christie Posted June 24, 2020 Report Share Posted June 24, 2020 Ah ! SPQR tappet adjusters. All the rage 50 years ago, never did figure out how to use them over all that time. I have stuck with the humble man’s feeler gauge. Seems to work for me james Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted June 24, 2020 Report Share Posted June 24, 2020 19 minutes ago, Lebro said: How do they work then, don't you still need a feeler gauge ? No Bob - it relies in assuming the thread pitch on the adjuster. It will compensate for wear on the surfaces as the starting point is fully screwed down to the valve stem and you back off from there to open the gap. You set the gap by a number of 'clicks' of the knob each representing a rotation of the adjuster by a few degrees. It works though not as accurately as feeler gauges but it does make it a two-handed job rather than a three-handed one. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted June 24, 2020 Report Share Posted June 24, 2020 22 minutes ago, james christie said: Ah ! SPQR tappet adjusters. All the rage 50 years ago, never did figure out how to use them over all that time. I have stuck with the humble man’s feeler gauge. Seems to work for me james James, perhaps the one you had was metric. Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted June 24, 2020 Report Share Posted June 24, 2020 It must therefore assume a particular TPI on the screw, & a particular ratio of length pivot to screw, pivot to valve. Surely these are not the same for every car ? Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted June 24, 2020 Report Share Posted June 24, 2020 10 hours ago, Ian Vincent said: Or buy an SPQR tappet adjuster. Cheap as chips on Ebay. Rgds Ian I had to look that one up. A learning experience- and I have one knocking around somewhere !!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted June 24, 2020 Report Share Posted June 24, 2020 (edited) That's right Bob. There was a chart supplied with the device of number-of-clicks for different models of engine presumably derived from empirical tests. As I said- not as accurate as feeler gauges but it did work provided your car was on the list. Nothing to stop you doing your own empirical test to start with though. Edited June 24, 2020 by RobH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Morrison Posted June 24, 2020 Report Share Posted June 24, 2020 Why was it the case that you needed to use the dedicated 1/2 inch spanner to do the job properly? John. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted June 24, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2020 13 hours ago, Ian Vincent said: "I think I should grind a feeler gauge down to the width of the valve stem, then the indent on the rocker face won't matter!" Or buy an SPQR tappet adjuster. Cheap as chips on Ebay. Rgds Ian Ah yes, got one of those. 50p at a car boot sale. Must give it a try sometime. 2 hours ago, John Morrison said: Why was it the case that you needed to use the dedicated 1/2 inch spanner to do the job properly? John. So they could take a bit more money off you! Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted June 24, 2020 Report Share Posted June 24, 2020 They don't need a dedicated 1/2" AF spanner, any 1/2" square drive socket will do. Yes it helps if you have the instructions but for TR's each click represents 2 thou so on my car it is 7 clicks for the inlets and 8 clicks for the exhausts. It does need a bit of practice to use but it is much quicker than feeler gauges, spanner and screwdriver and it compensates for worn rocker faces. I usually set them with the SPQR and then a quick check with the feeler gauge. But.... They are no longer as cheap as chips on Ebay, they are about £50 now. I bought my (admittedly well used example with a cracked case and missing one of the sockets, but including the instructions) for about a tenner a few years ago. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NigelH Posted June 27, 2020 Report Share Posted June 27, 2020 In younger days, my friends thought i was mad to be using one of these.. When you first try to use one you feel you need 3 hands to do the adjustment, used one on my herald and mini's. Once confident, its a simple tool really. Screwing the tappet down to closed then backing off the required number of clicks. Sounds a bit of a gimmick, but adequate accuracy for most engines. Like Ian I used to run the feeler through, but if the faces are worn, the feeler sometimes felt tight.. Nigel H Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Charlie D Posted June 27, 2020 Report Share Posted June 27, 2020 (edited) This might help Charlie Just discovered that better instructions are here as well: http://www.gunson.co.uk/product/G4094 And the price of a new one... £90.07.... Hmmm... Edited June 27, 2020 by Charlie D Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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