Rob Salisbury Posted May 6, 2020 Report Share Posted May 6, 2020 If that solvent gets anywhere near them they'll be see through trousers!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted May 6, 2020 Report Share Posted May 6, 2020 Jaguar X350s had adhesive bonded aluminium panels. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted May 6, 2020 Report Share Posted May 6, 2020 2 hours ago, RogerH said: probably in the pocket of my camouflage trousers Roger Yes, but can you find them ? Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted May 6, 2020 Report Share Posted May 6, 2020 I believe the Acclaim was the first British-built car to have an adhesive-bonded panel - the roof. Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 15, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2020 hi Folks, I'm still at it. I have cut all the rubbish from the front end of the sill and inserted new metal. If we were not in this lockdown I think I would have bought a complete sill and cut off the bit I needed. It would have reduced a couple of weld runs. Anyway, the sill is now sorted. At one point I had to play with the bracket that attaches the floor to the chassis bracket item 101 https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/body-chassis/body-panels/rear-inner-body-panels-tr4-4a-1961-67.html. The flanges attached to the floor drop flange had rotted away. Easy enough to weld on new bits. However I thought at the time if the attachment to the floor wasn't so industrial I would fit a new bracket. Today I decided to have a look at the floor panel at the offside 'A; post attachment. It was quite rusty and so I decided to remove the rot and rebuild what I could. I then realised that I could have replaced the bracket when the sill was in parts - aaarrrrggghhhhh. Anyway, there was enough to save and I welded in a new section of floor The next challenge is the angle where the floor joins the forward vertical kick panel. Over the years the Brake master cylinder has leaked an almost invisible amount of fluid. This has gone down the bulkhead and made the paint soft and porous. - and then rusty. Has anybody had success with KuRust rust remover gel. I have always used DeOxC and it works. This KuRust appears slightly worse then useless. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted May 15, 2020 Report Share Posted May 15, 2020 1 hour ago, RogerH said: This KuRust appears slightly worse then useless. I agree. I've never really found any gel that works. Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted May 16, 2020 Report Share Posted May 16, 2020 Jenolite works along with De-ox and also Milkstone remover. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Oddball Posted May 16, 2020 Report Share Posted May 16, 2020 (edited) . Edited July 27, 2020 by Cameron Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 16, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2020 After 24 Hours the KuRust Gel removed the surface rust and didn;t make the clean metal rusty. Annoyingly it is a very awkward area to get at. I have mechanically removed the great majority and have applied rust converter and then a decent coat of BondaRust. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.