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Lockdown out of the box thinking.


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  • 2 weeks later...

hi Folks,

I'm still at it. I have cut all the rubbish from the front end of the sill and inserted new metal.

If we were not in this lockdown I think I would have bought a complete sill and cut off the bit I needed. 

It would have reduced a couple of weld runs. Anyway, the sill is now sorted.

At one point I had to play with the bracket that attaches the floor to the chassis bracket item 101   https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/body-chassis/body-panels/rear-inner-body-panels-tr4-4a-1961-67.html.   The flanges attached to the floor drop flange had rotted away.  Easy enough to weld on new bits.

However I thought at the time if the attachment to the floor wasn't so industrial I would fit a new bracket.

Today I decided to have a look at the floor panel at the offside 'A; post attachment. It was quite rusty and so I decided to remove the rot and rebuild what I could.

I then realised that I could have replaced the bracket when the sill was in parts - aaarrrrggghhhhh.

Anyway, there was enough to save and I welded in a new section of floor

The next challenge is the angle where the floor joins the forward vertical kick panel. Over the years the Brake master cylinder has leaked an almost invisible

amount of fluid. This has gone down the bulkhead and made the paint soft and porous. - and then rusty.

Has anybody had success with KuRust rust remover gel.  I have always used DeOxC and it works.  This KuRust appears slightly worse then useless.

 

Roger

 

 

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Jenolite works along with De-ox and also Milkstone remover.

Stuart.

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After 24 Hours the KuRust Gel removed the surface rust and didn;t make the clean metal rusty.

Annoyingly it is a very awkward area to get at. 

I have mechanically removed the great majority and have applied rust converter and then a decent coat of BondaRust.

Roger

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