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Dave Herrod

roll bar fixing

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Thanks Andrew.

What padding material did you use on your bar, it looks neat.

I can see that a very bumpy road could result in a rather bad headache without any padding above ones head !

Bob.

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42 minutes ago, Lebro said:

Thanks Andrew.

What padding material did you use on your bar, it looks neat.

I can see that a very bumpy road could result in a rather bad headache without any padding above ones head !

Bob.

It came from Safety Devices and is used on cage struts to protect flailing arms and legs.  It was recommended by them for road use as the specific roll bar padding is very hard being designed to be used when a helmet is being worn and could still deal a considerable blow to in unprotected head. 
I used two lengths and stick them together with Tigerseal. It is secured with wide tie wraps which are used inside out with the ratchet head tucked into the slot in the padding to present a smooth profile to the outside. 

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12 hours ago, Drewmotty said:

Very nice Bob. I may look at getting a tonneau cover for mine now. 
I was thinking about having an extra zip from the drivers right shoulder to the dash so that when the cover is in on the section from the door to dashboard/ shoulder level can stay in place. Cosy. Has anyone seen it done?

Is this what you mean Andrew?

Zip from dash area to driver's left shoulder. I can fold the driver side tonneau behind the driver's seat and it stays covering the passenger area.

EDIT Actually, I assume this isn't what you mean looking at Bob's tonneau! I think you mean keeping a section of the tonneau covering the driver's side cut out on the door?

IMG_1635.JPG.jpg

Edited by MilesA

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That’s right Miles. Just leaving a “tank commander” hole for me and the steering wheel. 

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2 hours ago, Drewmotty said:

Just leaving a “tank commander” hole for me and the steering wheel. 

Like the Jabbeke tonneau . . . but double-duck, and zipped around your shoulders?

JabA.thumb.jpg.22aa53271d36e30c1f63cff5d1347e49.jpg

JabB.thumb.jpg.8b24398f6e66999757c97f1ebd0e2994.jpg

Deggers

 

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Sew a kagool Into the hole and you are fully covered.

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17 hours ago, Drewmotty said:

Very nice Bob. I may look at getting a tonneau cover for mine now. 
I was thinking about having an extra zip from the drivers right shoulder to the dash so that when the cover is in on the section from the door to dashboard/ shoulder level can stay in place. Cosy. Has anyone seen it done?

Hi Bob,  I had a tonneau cover made up with a detachable drivers side that curved around the back of the driver seat.  in fact I'm just having a new  cover made up right now as the plastic zip failed in one or two places.  It had to be detachable because the shoulder straps of my full harness seat belts  wouldn't have  been accessible  otherwise.   The photo shows Claude Dubois   siting in the car - and on the bit of  tonneau cover that should be removed!  i then cut a slot into the cover to pass the seat belt straps though at a better angle and this was secured with a flap of velcro  when not in use.  The vertical curtain down to the gear box tunnel was a period factory modification. 

hoges. 

 

DSCN3820.JPG

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Thinking on, it'll be cold again soon....

 

special tonneau.gif

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On 5/27/2020 at 2:43 PM, john.r.davies said:

Thinking on, it'll be cold again soon....

 

special tonneau.gif

Like it .  Only problem I can see is you need someone to fasten you in to it and let you out at the other end of the journey.

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On 5/26/2020 at 8:54 PM, Drewmotty said:

Very nice Bob. I may look at getting a tonneau cover for mine now. 
I was thinking about having an extra zip from the drivers right shoulder to the dash so that when the cover is in on the section from the door to dashboard/ shoulder level can stay in place. Cosy. Has anyone seen it done?

Don't know if the attached idea is what you're after but, on the kit-cars I built many years ago, I found it worked exceedingly well to use separate side-screen lowers (one for either side of the car) together with the tonneau cover with its slightly off-centre zip.  I think you'll find they are more convenient than trying to do it in one piece, and more reliable than extra zips.  Made and fitted at the same time as the tonneau - they didn't cost much extra, and they used the same studs fastenings.

Pete. 

.P1350054s.thumb.jpg.7665c9dd0e84dcad7fa56044f0976755.jpg

 

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Good shout BFG. 
As often happens discussion prompts tangential thoughts: I may make a short side screen which will then open with the door. 

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1 minute ago, Drewmotty said:

Good shout BFG. 
As often happens discussion prompts tangential thoughts: I may make a short side screen which will then open with the door. 

Thats what Racetorations sell (expensively) http://www.racetorations.co.uk/triumph-c56/tr2-c3/tr2-body-and-exterior-trim-c65/racetorations-competition-side-screens-pair-p729

Stuart.

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Thanks Stewart. Looks ideal......I’ll try making one. 

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On 5/8/2020 at 12:29 PM, Drewmotty said:

These images may be of use to you Bob. I can just get my fingers between the rear trim panel and the harness bar. 
I don’t know which seats you have but note that the harness points are designed to be central on parallel mounted seats rather than the standard ‘splayed’ arrangement. 
 

B1843B44-2BC6-4954-9FF6-A1197F6BBB83.jpeg

13F26976-B73A-4736-B23D-DACD4D008A25.jpeg

982784F8-31D1-43E3-ADDE-BDE943585D3E.jpeg

171AE81E-E778-466E-8E31-9FE930A782CB.jpeg

Hi Andrew.  can you put up a photo of how you arranged the padding where the back struts attach to the main bar. planning to fit my padding today.

did you glue it to the bar as well as cable tie ?

Bob

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Here you are Bob. I originally stuck it with Sikaflex/Tigerseal but it did unstick after some time, probably due to release agent on the padding.

I took it right down to the foot plate; you could do the same,  cut it at tonneau height And slide the bottom bit down 10mm to leave a gap for the tonneau to slip in to. Should look neat. 
The pictures have uploaded at funny angles, I’ll leave you to sort out which way is up :-)

9456CBCF-5A83-4A04-BE1E-2A7479D54B6C.jpeg

7B00F78E-9DFD-4AA9-BD10-DE1F35F6CC3B.jpeg

788C46D5-0284-42D7-89CC-402BEC414E62.jpeg

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3 hours ago, Lebro said:

Hi Andrew.  can you put up a photo of how you arranged the padding where the back struts attach to the main bar. planning to fit my padding today.

did you glue it to the bar as well as cable tie ?

Bob

Bob

which padding did you go for ?

H

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I was going to follow Andrews recommendation of Safety Devices "Multipurpose", but it does not seem to be available any more. However their "Roll Cage" padding (which I went for) looks exactly the same as Andrews.

Thanks Andrew, I thought you would have to cut a section out where the pipes join, just could not see it on you earlier photos

 

Bob.

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You may or may not have clocked that you now have the ideal spot for a high level brake light Bob. 
Here’s how I fitted mine:

https://www.tr-register.co.uk/group/devon/social-report/2020/04/1694/In-the-Garage-April-20

I'm not sure how I will fare with the top erected and what will effectively be an intermittent high intensity red interior light. 
If it proves to be a problem I’ll fit a cut out switch. 

There’s a report on other small projects like fitting the T7 heater which may interest you too. 

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Being a TR3 I already have a central brake light, plus two on the edges with my led bulbs ;)

Bob

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On 5/26/2020 at 8:54 PM, Drewmotty said:

I was thinking about having an extra zip from the drivers right shoulder. Has anyone seen it done?

Hi Andrew, browsing an old Morgan forum this afternoon, I stumbled across this.

More akin to your original suggestion perhaps (now that you're considering a door mounted panel instead), but might still be of interest?

MorgTon1.thumb.jpg.ed269e54eea6fc15699b71f202d15780.jpg

MorgTon2.thumb.jpg.70162db54db9bac3f83358296b6909f6.jpg

(Original Morgan forum thread) HERE

Cheers, Deggers

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On 6/2/2020 at 11:33 AM, Drewmotty said:

Here you are Bob. I originally stuck it with Sikaflex/Tigerseal but it did unstick after some time, probably due to release agent on the padding.

I took it right down to the foot plate; you could do the same,  cut it at tonneau height And slide the bottom bit down 10mm to leave a gap for the tonneau to slip in to. Should look neat. 
The pictures have uploaded at funny angles, I’ll leave you to sort out which way is up :-)

9456CBCF-5A83-4A04-BE1E-2A7479D54B6C.jpeg

7B00F78E-9DFD-4AA9-BD10-DE1F35F6CC3B.jpeg

788C46D5-0284-42D7-89CC-402BEC414E62.jpeg

20200611_112258.thumb.jpg.6fbd2d87dcbf8016d039c6cbd542e6dd.jpg  20200611_112307.thumb.jpg.e0b68efe0f34fa327728d6dc95564ca6.jpg   Padding on, thinking about taping over the splits to keep water out.

Bob.

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16 hours ago, Lebro said:

20200611_112258.thumb.jpg.6fbd2d87dcbf8016d039c6cbd542e6dd.jpg  20200611_112307.thumb.jpg.e0b68efe0f34fa327728d6dc95564ca6.jpg   Padding on, thinking about taping over the splits to keep water out.

Bob.

I think I would have put the split more towards the underneath of the bar then you wouldnt need to worry so much, is that closed cell foam as that doesnt absorb water.

Stuart.

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The cross section of the padding is such that it is much thicker opposite the split, so no choice really.

The foam has a skin everywhere except where I have had to cut it. So should not absorb much water, but it could allow water to sit between the bar & the padding.

Bob

Edited by Lebro

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