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Actually replaced mine the other week with a cardboard one (from Rimmers), and it was a battle trying to get it fitted back in. At one point I wished that I had not removed my old one !!

I did however persevere and finally got it fitted, but not before dismantling most of the heater ducting pipes and brackets. Also had to apply some 'light' persuasion to the sides of the new  unit with a rubber mallet to get it in a rough position to align the screw holes  :wacko:.

Basically the new units are not made with the necessary inward ''bulges' to allow for the heater ducting pipes.

I would imagine the same issues may  be applicable to the plastic one, but I stand to be corrected

 

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I had the same problem as Neil when I replaced mine last year, it required a rubber mallet change its shape, as Ed say's if you can repair the old one thats the best way to go. I completely refurbished the cabin last year and off all the tasks and some are a pain, the glove box was the worst, a pain in the rear end..

 

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Hi,

I refurbished mine just a week ago and took it from grotty to really presentable. I didn’t go the extent that ed_h did but nevertheless got a really presentable result by simply cleaning, painting and making a couple of repairs/reinforcements using Gorilla type tape. It was a faff to reinstall and I too removed the heater ducting to make it easier. What I can’t achieve is getting the door to pop open when the lock centre is pressed. I’m not sure what pushes it, is it the light switch or is there another technique/component/adjustment I need to adopt? Any advice gratefully received.

Thanks,

Paul

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1 hour ago, Paulfc said:

Hi,

I refurbished mine just a week ago and took it from grotty to really presentable. I didn’t go the extent that ed_h did but nevertheless got a really presentable result by simply cleaning, painting and making a couple of repairs/reinforcements using Gorilla type tape. It was a faff to reinstall and I too removed the heater ducting to make it easier. What I can’t achieve is getting the door to pop open when the lock centre is pressed. I’m not sure what pushes it, is it the light switch or is there another technique/component/adjustment I need to adopt? Any advice gratefully received.

Thanks,

Paul

Items 15, 16 and 17 (If you have them) on John L’s link as well as the light switch will allow the door to spring open. 

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Hi All

My 10 peneth on this one is. I kept my original card one as the condition was fine so didn't have to think about new.

But my experience was that I've fully refitted all of my dash, including hoses and electrics and didn't have any fit problem or difficulties at all. So given the fitment comments above maybe resurrecting the original as Ed says is worth consideration.

The only thing i've done is flock the interior which makes it look and feel abit nicer.

Cheers   Keith

 

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  • 1 month later...

Hi all - when I did mine recently I made a cut out for the heater ducting and glassfibred in a section of plastic pipe to get around the disappointing fit of the cardboard cubby.

Straightforward mod but should have been unnecessary if the d**med thing had been made properly!

I’ll try photos if anyone is interested.

cheers Neil 

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Hi all,

I did a similar thing to Ed, and ‘stabilised’ my very tatty glovebox with PVA glue. Repairs were made up with a paper mache made up of brown wrapping paper and PVA. Same colour as the original cardboard, cheap and easy to do. A quick spray of black paint on the inside and job done.

I wanted to keep the original glovebox because it had the manufacture date printed on the cardboard, and at least I knew it would fit back in.

Chris

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