RogerH Posted May 31, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2020 Hi Stuart, the cam core plug is nice and dry& clean. As the oil seal on the input shaft is easy to change I will replace that tomorrow. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted June 1, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2020 Hi Folks, today I was playing with the heater unit. AndyR100 highlighted, on one of his threads, a very neat fan/motor to replace the languid windmill that was originally installed. Fitting the new fan was very easy. However over the years I have been annoyed every time I fitted the choke cable. The back end of the solid outer body would press hard against the heater box. This would cause the cable to be slightly on the p*ss. But it still worked. As I had the box in pieces on the bench I decided to attack it so that the choke cable was free to sit square into the dash. Luckily the part of the box that needed to be relieved was full of air. The matrix was at the other end of the box. After a lot of faffing about I ended up with a working box that had a lump cut off - but it is working better than ever. I'll post a pic tomorrow. I have the same problem on the TR4. The fix I did on this was to remake the end of the solid body of the cable with a curve to move the cable away from the heater. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted June 1, 2020 Report Share Posted June 1, 2020 The sidescreens have the same problem. It works, but only just ! Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TorontoTim Posted June 2, 2020 Report Share Posted June 2, 2020 Roger (and Andy), Do I take it that removing the heater & fan is easy? I have some annoying something or other that has got into the works of the heater and is rubbing on the fan making it too noisy to use. I suspect a squirrel, but I suppose it could just be a leaf or two. Anyway, I need to get it out and clear out the gubbins. Tim (still with a full time job from home and not getting enough TR work done). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AndyR100 Posted June 2, 2020 Report Share Posted June 2, 2020 (edited) 5 hours ago, TorontoTim said: Roger (and Andy), Do I take it that removing the heater & fan is easy? I have some annoying something or other that has got into the works of the heater and is rubbing on the fan making it too noisy to use. I suspect a squirrel, but I suppose it could just be a leaf or two. Anyway, I need to get it out and clear out the gubbins. Tim (still with a full time job from home and not getting enough TR work done). Hi Tim, Roger asked me about access as well , this is my reply to him: mine is a metal-dash 4 and I took my heater out without removing the dash. I had read all of the horror stories that it was a job from hell, but figured it must be possible..... I removed the glovebox to get some extra room, and also removed the de-mister duct (flexible and metal) and the radio, plus of course the hoses which go through the bulkhead. i had to disconnect the air-intake rod at the bottom to make room to get to the heater mounting bolt that sits above it. with those out of the way (and the heater box controls disconnected) once the 3 top fastenings and the side one on the passenger side the box can come downwards and with a small amount of wiggling, out into the passenger footwell. Coming out this way allows you to keep the water pipes relatively high and avoid tipping whatever is left in the matrix over the interior. I really didn’t find it too difficult, although my back ached the next day because it is all kneeling down and ducking under the dash - all doable. I would expect it to be the same process on a LHD car as well, just sliding out the unit on the glovebox side - which may mean a larger container needed to catch coolant from the matrix. i think it took me less than 3 hours all-in, but I’d never done it before so perhaps less next time (which I’ll try not to do too soon) - Roger took the dash out of his car. hope that helps ....... Andy p.s. I am in the same boat regarding employment and time! Edited June 2, 2020 by AndyR100 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted June 2, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2020 (edited) Hi Tim, there are two sticky bits - 1, locating the three screws that hold the top of the heater box under the top dash area. 2, removing refitting the two water pipes. For the extra tine it takes it is worth removing as much innards as possible. On the 4A the wooden dash, on the 4 the central gauge panel. Glove box. The two screen vent pipes. The little stay that supports the choke knob The Floor/dash H support My GB is out at the mo' but I think it would not cause too much of a problem with it in situ. Once you know where the three top screws are you may be able to get these off with the dash in place but fore the little extra work it is worth removing the dash. Before you take the heater box out check the clearance with the choke control. It is easy to reshape the box when on the bench. Roger PS - the vent flap operating rod can stay in place - use a UJ on the socket Edited June 2, 2020 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TorontoTim Posted June 2, 2020 Report Share Posted June 2, 2020 Thanks, both. I'll crawl in today and take a look... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
silverfox4 Posted June 3, 2020 Report Share Posted June 3, 2020 I installed and removed a Clayton heater (not a good fit in a 4A), then refurbed the original and re-installed that. During the process I found the quickest and easiest way to fit the three bolts for the heater was to let the inner steel crush tube hang below the grommet on at least the last bolt, then once the thread had taken nicely, just push the crush tube back into the grommet. This way also helps not losing the thick spacer washers between the grommet and the plenum. The distorted choke cable issue is far worse with the Clayton. Cheers, Alf Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted June 3, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2020 (edited) Hi Folks, this is what I have done to improve the choke cable fit. This is the unfinished condition. It looks better when cleaned up and painted. The channel is cut through the air section of the unit. The extra metal work is sealed to stop any air leakage This should not stop the heater functioning in any way. Roger Edited June 3, 2020 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted June 3, 2020 Report Share Posted June 3, 2020 ....I've heard of heated seats and even a heated steering wheel but this must be the first heated choke cable .... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted June 3, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2020 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Noel Maule Posted June 3, 2020 Report Share Posted June 3, 2020 What a good idea Roger. I'm having similar problems. I was thinking of drilling holes in my heater housing and running a steel pipe straight through and brazing the ends. Then run the choke cable straight through. Do you think this would work ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted June 3, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2020 On 5/31/2020 at 2:12 PM, stuart said: Are you sure its coming from there and not the front of the box? Stuart. Hi Stuart, I think I may have found the source of the leak. I took the extension off and noticed that the seal may not have been coincident with the raised part of the shaft the seal seals against The seal was fitted new to a new extension back in 2015/6. The seal was pushed to the bottom of its location. That put the seal lip at 0.8" from the GB face. The centre of the raised sealing ridge on the shaft is 0.6" and it is not that wide. So a new seal to be fitted with a packing piece behind it to ensure it stays in the correct place. So with the seal not on its sealing ridge would allow oil from the GB along the nose of the extension and then be spun around by the flywheel etc. I'll report back in five years as to whether it worked or not. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted June 3, 2020 Report Share Posted June 3, 2020 Well at least you have found an explanation Roger. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted June 3, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2020 7 hours ago, Noel Maule said: What a good idea Roger. I'm having similar problems. I was thinking of drilling holes in my heater housing and running a steel pipe straight through and brazing the ends. Then run the choke cable straight through. Do you think this would work ? Hi Noel, That will not work. I tried that idea as one of my R&D failures. You can get the cable into the tube but you can't then get the knob end into the dash. Unless the tube is about 1" diameter. That is when I decided to make it into a 'U' shaped channel. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted June 3, 2020 Report Share Posted June 3, 2020 9 hours ago, RobH said: ....I've heard of heated seats and even a heated steering wheel but this must be the first heated choke cable .... Just take the engine block earth strap off, your choke cable will get warm... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted June 3, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2020 5 hours ago, RogerH said: Hi Stuart, I think I may have found the source of the leak. I took the extension off and noticed that the seal may not have been coincident with the raised part of the shaft the seal seals against The seal was fitted new to a new extension back in 2015/6. The seal was pushed to the bottom of its location. That put the seal lip at 0.8" from the GB face. The centre of the raised sealing ridge on the shaft is 0.6" and it is not that wide. So a new seal to be fitted with a packing piece behind it to ensure it stays in the correct place. So with the seal not on its sealing ridge would allow oil from the GB along the nose of the extension and then be spun around by the flywheel etc. I'll report back in five years as to whether it worked or not. Roger Hi Folks, I have transferred the dimensions of the extension /seal and GB face onto my CAD drawing package and this supports my concern that with the seal sitting deep into the extension the sealing lip is not in contact with the sealing ridge on the shaft. So something is not right. Either the counterbore where the seal sits is toooooo deep or the sealing ridge on the shaft s too narrow. I have the old OEM extension so will be able to see if that is also too deep. It's a funny old game. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Noel Maule Posted June 3, 2020 Report Share Posted June 3, 2020 4 hours ago, RogerH said: Hi Noel, That will not work. I tried that idea as one of my R&D failures. You can get the cable into the tube but you can't then get the knob end into the dash. Unless the tube is about 1" diameter. That is when I decided to make it into a 'U' shaped channel. Roger OK Roger, I can see that now you've explained it. Glad I asked before going down that road. Cheers. Noel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted June 4, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2020 (edited) Hi Regarding the packing piece behind the lip seal in the GB extension. It ended up as 0.25" thick. This brought the top of the seal (Rear face) flush with the extension counterbore edge. When it is pushed on to the shaft I can feel the lip seall ride up the sealing ridge, move rearwards and then the extensions contacts the GB face. I am now happy the seal is in the right place and should do its job. Roger Edited June 4, 2020 by RogerH typo Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted June 4, 2020 Report Share Posted June 4, 2020 Well done Roger fingers crossed for you. H Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted June 4, 2020 Report Share Posted June 4, 2020 So does this mean the cover is bored incorrectly Roger. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted June 4, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2020 Hi Stuart, I would suggest at this moment that the bore for the lip seal is too deep by apprx 1/4". I can;t find my OEM extension that I took out n 2015 to see what an original looked like. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted June 4, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2020 Hi Folks, having sorted the GB oil leak (please be fixed) and the GB to OD adaptor plate leak and improved the heater unit I attempted to put the GB back into the car. Getting it into the car was easy, Connecting to the engine was another matter. I tried three times with no success. So I have made a decision - tomorrow I shall take the engine out, fit the GB to the engine and then stick the lump back in the car. The extra work will be easier than the brute force required that I have not got. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ntc Posted June 4, 2020 Report Share Posted June 4, 2020 8 hours ago, RogerH said: Hi Regarding the packing piece behind the lip seal in the GB extension. It ended up as 0.25" thick. This brought the top of the seal (Rear face) flush with the extension counterbore edge. When it is pushed on to the shaft I can feel the lip seall ride up the sealing ridge, move rearwards and then the extensions contacts the GB face. I am now happy the seal is in the right place and should do its job. Roger Roger You are aware there is a double lip seal available ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted June 4, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2020 Hi Neil, I wasn't aware of that. I think having the original seal fitted correctly may give serious improvements. If the problem persists than I will look into the double lip. Thanks for that. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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