Graham Posted April 24, 2020 Report Share Posted April 24, 2020 (edited) Just been watching a video where a chap far more knowledgeable than I suggesting that as far as the front differential mounting bridge is concerned the 4a chassis is better because of the large reinforcing gusset that sits between the bridge and the chassis rails this was not fitted to the 5/6 chassis. so question is it worth/possible to retro fit one on a bare chassis ? Edited April 25, 2020 by Graham Quote Link to post Share on other sites
M. Pied Lourd Posted April 25, 2020 Report Share Posted April 25, 2020 Hi Graham, Take a look at this gents video. I think it’s a good video and shares my sentiments. It goes into the differences of the various frames and their strengths and weaknesses. On my TR250 restoration, I added structural steel bars to support the diff from rocking foreword and back...not everyone’s cup of tea but I thought I’d go ahead and try something different than my TR6 stock frame set up... Cheers Tush Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graham Posted April 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2020 (edited) 7 hours ago, M. Pied Lourd said: Hi Graham, Take a look at this gents video. I think it’s a good video and shares my sentiments. It goes into the differences of the various frames and their strengths and weaknesses. On my TR250 restoration, I added structural steel bars to support the diff from rocking foreword and back...not everyone’s cup of tea but I thought I’d go ahead and try something different than my TR6 stock frame set up... Cheers Tush Tush this is the video I was referring to and I had seen from your videos that you had also re enforced the front diff bridge so I was wondering if the gusset section from a 4A would provide some additional support. However the guy does make the point that its taken 50 years or so for these cars to sag, so if I get my 5 rebuilt straight by the time it sags again it won't be my problem ! Edited April 26, 2020 by Graham Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted April 26, 2020 Report Share Posted April 26, 2020 (edited) Best mod if you want is two bars between the two mounting bridges. Back when Rubery Owen stopped making chassis there was a few new ones made by a guy in Hertfordshire and they had this mod plus extra brackets on the spring bridge to take shock in spring conversions properly not the flimsy kits offered these days. Stuart. Oh and before anyone says theres no re-enforcing on the diff pin tops, they didnt need it as both the bridges were made of 3mm plate and boxed in the same Edited April 26, 2020 by stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave McDonald Posted April 26, 2020 Report Share Posted April 26, 2020 I've not seen the extra brackets over the ends of the front bridge before, but I've added 2 bars between the two bridges on several chassis. I've always used 25 x 25 RSA lined up between the tops of the diff pins. Dave McD Quote Link to post Share on other sites
M. Pied Lourd Posted April 27, 2020 Report Share Posted April 27, 2020 Not everyone’s cup of tea, but I have modded my chassis as above but also have bars in front of the diff support...so support for and aft...this meant I had to channel and pocket my body tub so like I said, not everyone’s cup of tea... Cheers Tush Quote Link to post Share on other sites
M. Pied Lourd Posted April 27, 2020 Report Share Posted April 27, 2020 Stuart, question for you, I see you added some triangulation at the trailing arm box sections. Is there any concerns having the plates on top of the frame? Does this interfere with the body fitting down on the chassis outriggers or do you just add shims to compensate? Cheers, Tush Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted April 27, 2020 Report Share Posted April 27, 2020 6 hours ago, M. Pied Lourd said: Stuart, question for you, I see you added some triangulation at the trailing arm box sections. Is there any concerns having the plates on top of the frame? Does this interfere with the body fitting down on the chassis outriggers or do you just add shims to compensate? Cheers, Tush There is just enough gap anyway Ive found. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rcreweread Posted April 27, 2020 Report Share Posted April 27, 2020 On 4/24/2020 at 7:47 PM, Graham said: Just been watching a video where a chap far more knowledgeable than I suggesting that as far as the front differential mounting bridge is concerned the 4a chassis is better because of the large reinforcing gusset that sits between the bridge and the chassis rails this was not fitted to the 5/6 chassis. so question is it worth/possible to retro fit one on a bare chassis ? I don't think anyone has answered Grahams original question - the 4A U shaped double skinned gusset ( does it have a proper name?) would seem to add strength and it looks like there is sufficient space to fit it, so would it not be beneficial? The box sections shown welded between the diff bridges will certainly give both the bridges a lot more combined strength and that in itself will impart more torsional rigidity to the chassis in that area, but it wouldn't seem to address the weakest point which is the narrowest part of the waist in the chassis in front of the foremost diff bridge? Or am I missing something? Cheers Rich Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.