WWT338J Posted April 24, 2020 Report Share Posted April 24, 2020 Dear Wise Men I'm mid way through a job I wish I'd not started... When I first got my CP-series TR6 many years ago I converted the fuel pump to Bosch and adjusted the pressure. The boot has smelt of fuel ever since. I replaced the pump to PRV hose with an expensive braided hose from Revington some time ago without improvement. I subsequently fitted a new style pressure regulating valve. There is a slight weep of fuel from the short copper pipe that joins the PRV to the fuel line under the car (77 in the diagram). I assume messing around with the PRV has deformed the flange on the end which joins the PRV. So I thought I'd try and replace it. I've got the original pipe out and bent a new pipe to match, or almost match, the complicated pattern but it's proving to be a right sod to get back in. Part of the problem is that I haven't removed the petrol tank because it is half full of petrol. I'd be grateful for any advice. Has anybody substituted a flexible pipe? That would be a lot easier to fit. Thanks David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter V W Posted April 24, 2020 Report Share Posted April 24, 2020 Hi David, I replaced that pipe a few months ago, very tricky. The route is awkward. I took the fuel tank out first and replaced all my fuel pipes at the same time. the attached photo shows the route, but prior to fixing P clips. regards Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C Posted April 24, 2020 Report Share Posted April 24, 2020 This section in mine like most of my fuel system has a section of high pressure Gates Barricade in it to make it easier to fit. To make it easier to work on the PI system with a full tank, I've also fitted SS/PTFE ball valves in sections of the pipework that can drain when disconnected with a full tank- on my set up that's the supply and PRV return. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
WWT338J Posted April 25, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2020 Dear Both Thanks for the replies. Mike I like the sound of your set up. The specs of the hose sound good. Did you fit swaged ends to the hose? I’m anxious at the thought of using jubilee clips. If so where did you get the pipe made up? David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Xmas6 Posted April 25, 2020 Report Share Posted April 25, 2020 Hi I’ve used plastic pipe as used on “ modern” cars with either olive type fittings or barbed fittings with correctly sized double ear compression type clips. What is the thinking on this as the car is still under restoration and not yet on the road. cheers Neil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard71 Posted April 25, 2020 Report Share Posted April 25, 2020 1 hour ago, WWT338J said: Dear Both Thanks for the replies. Mike I like the sound of your set up. The specs of the hose sound good. Did you fit swaged ends to the hose? I’m anxious at the thought of using jubilee clips. If so where did you get the pipe made up? David That's what I'd like to know, can this Barricade hose be swaged? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C Posted April 25, 2020 Report Share Posted April 25, 2020 2 hours ago, WWT338J said: Dear Both Thanks for the replies. Mike I like the sound of your set up. The specs of the hose sound good. Did you fit swaged ends to the hose? I’m anxious at the thought of using jubilee clips. If so where did you get the pipe made up? David I just use 2 jubilee clips on each joint with the heads spaced 180 degrees apart. Last time I checked this gave a factor of safety of at least 2 according to Jubilee's website. There was a slight flare on the copper fuel pipe left by a PO who would have initially used rubber fuel pipe far inferior to Barricade. Before Barricade became available I used SAEJ30R9 fuel piping which, in the end , was lasting less than 5 years on modern Australian 98 octane. I can't answer on swaging the Gates piping as I've never needed to do it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted April 25, 2020 Report Share Posted April 25, 2020 You could go down the 2.5PI route and have 5/16" diameter nylon tube from the PRV to metering unit. Maybe could ask Chris Witor if he can supply said pipe. https://www.chriswitor.com/ Or buy the nylon pipe and fittings then do it yourself. . https://www.ssldieselparts.co.uk/brass-fittings-c-236.html Or ask Think Automotive to make you a flexible pipe with the correct fittings at each end. https://www.thinkauto.com/acatalog/On_line_shop_fuel_injection_hose_126.html Cheers Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C Posted April 27, 2020 Report Share Posted April 27, 2020 Don't forget the line from the PRV to the tank is under possibly a metre of so of petrol working head. No real need to go overboard on the pressure rating of its end fittings. More important to have it long enough to prevent resonance and the associated noise. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
WWT338J Posted April 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2020 Hi Peter Thank you for the link to Think. That's what I will get although I've finally got the copper pipe installed. David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
astontr6 Posted April 28, 2020 Report Share Posted April 28, 2020 On 4/25/2020 at 11:46 AM, Richard71 said: That's what I'd like to know, can this Barricade hose be swaged? I used this type of hose with swaged end fittings for easy install and better sealing. Bruce. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
astontr6 Posted April 28, 2020 Report Share Posted April 28, 2020 On 4/25/2020 at 2:20 PM, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: You could go down the 2.5PI route and have 5/16" diameter nylon tube from the PRV to metering unit. Maybe could ask Chris Witor if he can supply said pipe. https://www.chriswitor.com/ Or buy the nylon pipe and fittings then do it yourself. . https://www.ssldieselparts.co.uk/brass-fittings-c-236.html Or ask Think Automotive to make you a flexible pipe with the correct fittings at each end. https://www.thinkauto.com/acatalog/On_line_shop_fuel_injection_hose_126.html Cheers Peter W Nylon pipe does not seem to degrade even after years of use I.e. injector leads. but I would not use it to go from the PRV to M/U. I would always use a metal pipe for most of the run. Bruce. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John L Posted April 28, 2020 Report Share Posted April 28, 2020 I'm in the process of adding/changing from the CAV filter setup, to put the PRV return into the top of the tank, my CP only had one return port, should I add a drop tube to the fitting I'm going to braze into the top of the tank. I worried that as its not supported at the bottom, that it may break off eventually with the fuel sloshing around inside. Is there a way to attach it at the bottom, without making another hole in the bottom. There is a baffle plate at about a 1/3rd in from each end, the middle section is where I was planning to put the return, or should it be at the end behind the baffle plate above the outlet? I haven't looked in any of the new tanks metal or ali, if this has been fitted, could anybody confirm please. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C Posted April 28, 2020 Report Share Posted April 28, 2020 If you're fitting a new nozzle to your tank- my PRV returns to the tank about halfway up the passenger side (as far as I can get from the pump suction line). The idea is to keep the heated PRV return fuel away from the pump and to minimize fuel splashing in the tank. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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