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replacing front wheel cylinder


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My front left wheel cylinder is leaking fluid all over the brake shoes, so I'm replacing it:

IMG_0625_front_left_wheel_cyl.jpg

IMG_0623_front_left_wheel_cyl.jpg

 

... but as I've tried to show with the pictures, the brake pipe turns along with the nut, thus, I take it, stressing the pipe unduly. How do I stop the pipe turning with the nut?

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Remove master cyl filler cap

Fit a doubled over plastic bag over the filler cap hole and screw the filler cap back on - that should stop all the fluid draining out of the disconnected pipework.

 

 Slacken the flexible pipe from the cylinder (1/4 turn)

Remove the bolt that holds the cylinder to the backplate

Remove the rigid pipe from the cylinder

Pull the cylinder and pipe through the backplate and unscrew the cylinder off the pipe.

 

Refit same way.  If the pipe is twisted when tightened then slack the pipe from the other end of the hose at the chassis.  Then slack the big nut holding the hose to the chassis.

Align correctly and refit/retighten everything.

Re-bleed in usual way.

 

Or just remove the hose completely

 

Cheers

Peter W

PS Do not lose the copper crush washer between hose and cylinder - It is there to create a seal between the two.

 

 

 

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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Thank you Peter!

: "Remove master cyl filler cap,Fit a doubled over plastic bag over the filler cap hole and screw the filler cap back on - that should stop all the fluid draining out of the disconnected pipework. Slacken the flexible pipe from the cylinder (1/4 turn), Remove the bolt that holds the cylinder to the backplate, Remove the rigid pipe from the cylinder"

Yep, thanks, done all that now. Your next step is to pull the cylinder through the backplate. Isn't the micram adjuster getting in the way though:

IMG_0627_front_left_micram_adj.jpg

 

So should I remove the micram adjuster and even the shoe next then? Or can I just leave them where they are and manoeuvre/bully the cylinder out?

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Thank you Bob, that's all done now :)

: "PS Do not lose the copper crush washer between hose and cylinder - It is there to create a seal between the two"

I've got a tub of Heldite. Has worked a treat for sealing petrol leaks. Is it a good or bad idea to give the copper crush washer a quick Heldite bath before refitting it? Maybe brake fluid (dot4) attacks Heldite, I dunno...

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Thanks again Bob, done that now.

: "If the pipe is twisted when tightened then slack the pipe from the other end of the hose at the chassis.  Then slack the big nut holding the hose to the chassis"

That "big nut" defeated my spanner collection, which only goes up to three quarters of an inch. I reckon that nut needs a one inch spanner. I'll get on ebay then...

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The connection at the fixed end of the flex pipe can be very hard to undo if it has been there for a while, lots of penetrating oil over the thread helps, but you also need a special "brake pipe" spanner, which is like a 6 sided ring spanner with a gap to allow it to slip over the pipe. You can buy these as a set on ebay (as I did a couple of years ago)

Bob.

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