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1965 TR4A progress and restoration


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Thanks Rob, I'd certainly prefer standard (softer) ones. 

Jase hasn't reported the same issue, but I'm concerned about the lowness of my engine ..or the excessive height of the steering rack in my own car, whichever is causing the interference of the fan extension, as discussed < here >.   If the engine goes up then the top hose pipe to the radiator will have to bend because the radiator itself cannot go higher (..the bonnet was touching it before I tilted the radiator back a little).  

From what you say this is job best done at the same time as I replace the water hoses, to save removing the bottom hoses twice, and at the same time as fitting a new fan belt. 

cheers, Pete  

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13 minutes ago, Bfg said:

 

From what you say this is job best done at the same time as I replace the water hoses, to save removing the bottom hoses twice, and at the same time as fitting a new fan belt. 

If you take the radiator out at the same time you can check the tightness of the crankshaft bolt.

Pete

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Good thinking Pete.  Yes, that'll make all the difference to better access each task.  And I can get rid of that darned horrid cardboard at the same time, and perhaps even tidy up the wiring to the headlamps ..and also correct the car's grille stays.  I can see how this 'five minute job' is going to go, but they've all got to be tackled at sometime.  With that in mind then, I'll wait until I move apartment in a couple of week's time. 

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2 hours ago, RobTR3 said:

Pete

Don't buy the updated engine mounts, they are too harsh for road use. I tried them and immediately swapped them out for standard mounts. There is too much resonance which will be very noticeable compared with well worn and softened rubber on the old mounts.

Access is mainly from above, but you can get at the lower steady bracket from below (TR3) for additional access. I also removed the dynamo and disconnected the hose/steel pipe on the nearside from the water pump housing and pushed it towards the water pump clear of nearside mount. Both give you a better chance to get spanner access.

Rob

We are talking 4a here so not the same and the L/R mounts are fine and much longer lasting.

Stuart.

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Looking to complete this sticker, does anyone have a clear image of this and the indicator side? I’ll re-draw and print replacements then.

 

55068995-263A-4A36-A47B-E6F03454336A.jpeg

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7 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

I’d say these should be printed on to clear vinyl, looks like they have printed black, probably won’t match the surround. Quick refresh of my wheel.

stalks need to be rubbed down properly next and painted with my new chrome aint.

 

20744723-3DEE-480A-9043-C81D2F4D75E2.jpeg

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22 minutes ago, Jase said:

I’d say these should be printed on to clear vinyl, looks like they have printed black, probably won’t match the surround.

No, they originally were on a black background. The plastic switch covers should also be black, but they fade to a greenis colour.

Pete

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Water slide were spot on, challenging to make though, were the water slides clear or black background?

 I’m foing to run mine on clear because of the variation of colour in my cowls.

 

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2 hours ago, stuart said:

Could do with a new gear lever gaiter too, theyre three piece FWIW. Items 7/8/9 here Gear lever gaiter

Stuart.

Going to wait until I purchase my new interior although they are quite cheap so may just tag onto another order. Thanks

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25 minutes ago, stillp said:

Stalks look good Jase, what chrome paint did you use?

Pete

I've been following the development of it on a website called Culture HustleL

https://culturehustle.com/collections/potions/products/mirror?gclid=Cj0KCQjw38-DBhDpARIsADJ3kjkU4CCKoa1pHch4JHysr000O5fumQhY0umWzEVmhbKzMUkah0foF4saAiwHEALw_wcB

 

Not sure how it will hold up to UV light but they said it would be fine. The small bottle will go a long way though.

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I think you ought to explain why chroming the tip of the steering column. Took me some scroll up to understand :D

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