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1965 TR4A progress and restoration


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3 hours ago, Jase said:

Well, spot on with the engine mounts, onejust popped so ordered a new set, changing all of the hoses at the moment and a new peyrol pipe kit on the way to battle the old ethanol.

 

 

 

I suspect you jacked-up the engine without loosening the engine mounts bolts and probably why it popped...

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2 hours ago, Geko said:

I suspect you jacked-up the engine without loosening the engine mounts bolts and probably why it popped...

 

I didn't and I should have but to be honest they look like they need changing like every other rubber pipe on the car. I was going to do it this year anyway :) 

Is the engine mount under the carbs as easy to get to as the other side? I haven't investigated that side yet, tooo many jobs to do today :( 

 

Thanks

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On 4/3/2021 at 7:05 PM, Jase said:

Is the engine mount under the carbs as easy to get to as the other side? I haven't investigated that side yet, tooo many jobs to do today :( 

I've not done it (..yet) but as I cannot even get a camera in there to see what sort of condition it's in..  I'm guess it would be easier to get to from under the car. 

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17 hours ago, Bfg said:

I've not done it (..yet) but as I cannot even get a camera in there to see what sort of condition it's in..  I'm guess it would be easier to get to from under the car. 

No it wouldnt, its done from the top.

Stuart.

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Cheers Stuart. 

I reckon it's a job I won't be looking forward to doing then.  :unsure:

I'm going to get rectangular mounts again.  I'm advised Land Rover ones are very similar but have slightly larger studs, and so the chassis holes need to be redrilled for the next size.  Easy enough when the engine's out but not something I want to struggle with in-situ.  I guess all of the principle suppliers offer appropriate ones, but is there anything I ought to know before ordering or in fitting.

Thanks,  Pete

 

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there are uprated ones on the market the likes of revington do them just so you are aware.

may be too inflexible for road use ??

 

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I've put an order into TRGB for replacements, also thoughtI'd change my joining pipe from the waterpump hose to the bottom of the rad to stainless at the same time. Arriving tomorrow so aiming to fit it all tomorrow if the weather is good to me.

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35 minutes ago, Bfg said:

Cheers Stuart. 

I reckon it's a job I won't be looking forward to doing then.  :unsure:

I'm going to get rectangular mounts again.  I'm advised Land Rover ones are very similar but have slightly larger studs, and so the chassis holes need to be redrilled for the next size.  Easy enough when the engine's out but not something I want to struggle with in-situ.  I guess all of the principle suppliers offer appropriate ones, but is there anything I ought to know before ordering or in fitting.

Thanks,  Pete

 

Theyre a straight swap no drilling required IIRC.

Stuart.

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4 hours ago, Bfg said:

I'm advised Land Rover ones are very similar but have slightly larger studs, and so the chassis holes need to be redrilled for the next size. 

 

8mm instead of the original 5/16, so not a problem, but you'll need to change the nuts of course.

Pete

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Posted (edited)

all my goodies arrived today, going to wait for a warm day before I fit the petrol pipes and also less fuel in the tank, hoping that when I jack her up on the side it won’t all run out.

 

Question, if you do this where do you secure your spare fan belt? Engine mounts and rad hoses fitted today, water test tomorrow.

 

 

 

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Edited by Jase
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12 hours ago, Jase said:

Question, if you do this where do you secure your spare fan belt? 

A bit iconoclastic but my emergency stretchable fan belt was... in the boot.

Edited by Geko
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In my opinion a good quality toothed type "20" does not fail, I use a "Flennor 20X900",

anyway I have a spare part (to help others) in my boot.

A typ "17" also works if it is not smaller than 17 mm (sadly I own a Gates "17" only 16 mm wide because of the tolerances).

Infact the "20" is much too solid for the TRs, recommended for pulleys not smaller than 160 mm.

This explains why you don't get  a "20" shorter than 900 mm (2 pulleys 160 mm + minimum distance between + lenght to get the belt fitted)

Anyway I use the "20"( toothed) on the tiny TR4 pulleys without problems.

Ciao, Marco

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Should be a tad higher I would say. 90° plug caps would sort that out.

Bob.

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60 degree plug caps would help.

Stuart.

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Or re-routing the fuel line (flexible) behind the engine swap the lids of the fuel bowls if you have have SUs and plug the fuel inlet on the rear carb.

Screenshot 2021-04-08 at 22.44.28.png

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So, Mabel the TR4A is earning her keep. Off to the local recycling centre now :) 

Look away if you are feint hearted :) 

8118F193-8AF0-4CF5-8485-CBADC85CB7D3.jpeg

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18 hours ago, mrehke said:

Jase -

Try something like this - https://www.frost.co.uk/brake-pipe-and-tube-bender/ - other pipe benders are available too...

Mark

Thanks Mark, that reminded about a brake pipe flaring kit and shaping tool I lent to someone over 5 years ago and I'm still waiting for it to be returned, will chase again. I should follow the advice from my father 'Never a lender or borrower be' :) so many tools missing over the years :(

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On 4/6/2021 at 1:50 PM, Bfg said:

Cheers Stuart. 

I reckon it's a job I won't be looking forward to doing then.  :unsure:

I'm going to get rectangular mounts again.  I'm advised Land Rover ones are very similar but have slightly larger studs, and so the chassis holes need to be redrilled for the next size.  Easy enough when the engine's out but not something I want to struggle with in-situ.  I guess all of the principle suppliers offer appropriate ones, but is there anything I ought to know before ordering or in fitting.

Thanks,  Pete

 

Pete

Don't buy the updated engine mounts, they are too harsh for road use. I tried them and immediately swapped them out for standard mounts. There is too much resonance which will be very noticeable compared with well worn and softened rubber on the old mounts.

Access is mainly from above, but you can get at the lower steady bracket from below (TR3) for additional access. I also removed the dynamo and disconnected the hose/steel pipe on the nearside from the water pump housing and pushed it towards the water pump clear of nearside mount. Both give you a better chance to get spanner access.

Rob

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