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1965 TR4A progress and restoration


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TBH it looks like a pretty good basis to start with, the dent your on about in the arch is supposed to be there and you are missing the wing beadings on top of front and rear wings. The dash you have

Jase, I know these are strange times but I also live in Bridgend and have a 1962 TR4 and would normally offer you the opportunity to come and use as a reference or just a chat. Have you cont

Having spent quite a lot of time going through the car I decided to do an essential run today and drive it for the first time and pick up some petrol, just a few shots back on the drive and my essenti

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Up under each side of the dash there is a bracket that the screen frame tubes go down into, there is a nut and washer on the bottom of each tube that needs removing and there is also a bolt on the side of the bracket that screws into the side of the inner wing which also needs removing as it pinches the clamp together, you often need to try and prise the clamp apart slightly with a screw driver and then plenty of release agent around the tube where it goes through the bracket as it will be seized solid in there. If your renewing the rubber then just cut the old one and take the screen out first. The frame needs to come up equally side to side or it will jam, if its never been out before it will be a struggle. Easiest to take the seats out and stand in the car to get a straight pull up.

I use the Moss screen and rubber as its the best of the lot.

Stuart.

Edited by stuart
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Thanks Stuart, I know the frame has been replaced with a TR5 frame but that must be at least 40 years ago. The inner wing bolt is that one of the pair at the top you can see when you open the door as per photo above? Thanks

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2 hours ago, Jase said:

Thanks Stuart, I know the frame has been replaced with a TR5 frame but that must be at least 40 years ago. The inner wing bolt is that one of the pair at the top you can see when you open the door as per photo above? Thanks

Youve got the one you can see when you open the door but there is also another in the bracket under the dash where the tubes go down into it. Number 11 here https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/body-chassis/windscreens-glazing-fittings/windscreen-tr4-4a-1961-67.html

That one pinches the tube in the bracket.

Stuart.

 

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  • 2 months later...

Just to keep this thread going, just purchased a new dash, would it be a agood time to convert my instrument lights to leds whils everything is out? If so does anyone have a link to a kit to do this?

Thanks

J

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7 hours ago, Jase said:

Just to keep this thread going, just purchased a new dash, would it be a agood time to convert my instrument lights to leds whils everything is out? If so does anyone have a link to a kit to do this?

Thanks

J

If you convert the instrument lights to LED, you will also need to convert or replace the dimmer, as it will not work with LEDs.  You will almost certainly need a dimmer as many find the instruments too bright at night otherwise. Each to their own, but I prefer the warm glow of the original incandescent bulbs over the harsh light from LEDs.

Ralph

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So now we are on a run, new dash purchased, thanks Rich, new carpets and interior trim purchased, thanks TR Shop, new MX5 seats on their way, Thanks Rich and Stuart, just going to order LED lights, should keep me busy for the next few weeks.

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30 minutes ago, Lebro said:

Where do plan to order the LED bulbs from ? I can recommend classiccarleds.co.uk  Speak to Duncan.

Bob

Thanks Bob, yes I ordered from classic car leds online, only just did it so fingers crossed they'll arrive before the end of the week.

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On 4/4/2022 at 6:42 AM, Ralph Whitaker said:

If you convert the instrument lights to LED, you will also need to convert or replace the dimmer, as it will not work with LEDs.  You will almost certainly need a dimmer as many find the instruments too bright at night otherwise. Each to their own, but I prefer the warm glow of the original incandescent bulbs over the harsh light from LEDs.

Ralph

Ralph, 

How should the dimmer be replaced? I've fitted led dash illumination but I hadn't realised that made the dimmer redundant 

David 

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Try a forum search -  there was a very recent thread on that. 

Edit - see this

 

Edited by RobH
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Well what a journey today and well worth it. Met up with Rich and picked up my MX5 seats and a fitting kit for my petrol tank. Great to touch base, thanks Rich, will post photos of the transformation over the next few days I hope.

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11 hours ago, Jase said:

Well what a journey today and well worth it. Met up with Rich and picked up my MX5 seats and a fitting kit for my petrol tank. Great to touch base, thanks Rich, will post photos of the transformation over the next few days I hope.

Looks like we are following a similar path Jase, picked up seats for my TR4A from Rich at The Ship yesterday he is very helpful and fair with his prices. Look forward to seeing more of your story

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10 hours ago, Cotswoldiver said:

Looks like we are following a similar path Jase, picked up seats for my TR4A from Rich at The Ship yesterday he is very helpful and fair with his prices. Look forward to seeing more of your story

We must have just missed each other

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Well a busy day today, dash removed, clocks cleaned, managed to remove the passenger crash pad and handle. Having problems with the driver's side, doesn't seem to want to budge.

 

Any tips about how to remove the centre 'switch' panel, need to undo the choke, easier said than done, any helpful tips greatly appreciated.

Thanks

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1 hour ago, Jase said:

Well a busy day today, dash removed, clocks cleaned, managed to remove the passenger crash pad and handle. Having problems with the driver's side, doesn't seem to want to budge.

 

Any tips about how to remove the centre 'switch' panel, need to undo the choke, easier said than done, any helpful tips greatly appreciated.

Thanks

centre switch plinth on my 4A was fastened by two screws into the front face and one bolt in from the side (behind) by the air vent flap control.

I haven't had the H-frame in my car for some time bow, but I'm sure that was fastened to a piece of angle bolted below the dashboard. As that is just behind the switch plinth, I may be wrong but,  I don't think that would stop that plinth from pulling forward (with switch wires and control cables limiting how far).

I believe the choke cable has a nut behind, by grabbing holding of that and twisting the choke's front ferrule nut back and forth, albeit just a tiny amount, the nut at the back worked a little loose and then I could undo the ferrule nut on the front. 

Pete

p.s. your seats look nice ..but should they be in the car while your pulling instruments, cables and switches out ? it would be a shame to damage them.

 

 

Edited by Bfg
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1 hour ago, Bfg said:

centre switch plinth on my 4A was fastened by two screws into the front face and one bolt in from the side (behind) by the air vent flap control.

I haven't had the H-frame in my car for some time bow, but I'm sure that was fastened to a piece of angle bolted below the dashboard. As that is just behind the switch plinth, I may be wrong but,  I don't think that would stop that plinth from pulling forward (with switch wires and control cables limiting how far).

I believe the choke cable has a nut behind, by grabbing holding of that and twisting the choke's front ferrule nut back and forth, albeit just a tiny amount, the nut at the back worked a little loose and then I could undo the ferrule nut on the front. 

Pete

p.s. your seats look nice ..but should they be in the car while your pulling instruments, cables and switches out ? it would be a shame to damage them.

 

 

Thanks, trying to get that nut loose is the challenge. I just popped the seat on top of the old one when tidying up, that’s the last job.

Edited by Jase
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