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1965 TR4A progress and restoration


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Hi Jase - when you get round to sorting the plenum repairs, this is what my Engineer did in 2018. The tube goes right through the inner sill so no water sits there to start the problem again. Hope you find this useful

Christine

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TBH it looks like a pretty good basis to start with, the dent your on about in the arch is supposed to be there and you are missing the wing beadings on top of front and rear wings. The dash you have

Jase, I know these are strange times but I also live in Bridgend and have a 1962 TR4 and would normally offer you the opportunity to come and use as a reference or just a chat. Have you cont

Having spent quite a lot of time going through the car I decided to do an essential run today and drive it for the first time and pick up some petrol, just a few shots back on the drive and my essenti

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Thank you, I'm interested to see what lies beneath the front wings as it seems the car has had some bodywork done over the years. I note the tubes sticking out at the front of the sills on mine, near to the front tyres.

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10 hours ago, Jase said:

. I note the tubes sticking out at the front of the sills on mine, near to the front tyres.

In that case your plenum drains have already been extended. What people forget though with 4/4a/5 is that at the rear of each inner wing drain channels there is another drain hole that allows water to drain down inside the inner wing and over the top of the sill. I always fit an extra drain tube there that follows the extended plenum drain tubes down and out through the bottom of the wheel arch splash panels. I also do a similar thing for that area on TR6 though they require a small box at the top to act as a collector.

I see Harry has beaten me to it with a similar answer :rolleyes:

Stuart.

 

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1 hour ago, harrytr5 said:

This is my take on it. one from the corner at the rear of the bonnet joining the plenum and through the sill to exit through the vertical floor pan panel.

Regards Harry20140915_141940.thumb.jpg.9d2c5a560e8df7391e8a7dbfda46bfe8.jpg

I'm not sure I like the idea of drilling the top of the sill.

Pete

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3 hours ago, stillp said:

I'm not sure I like the idea of drilling the top of the sill.

Pete

Neither do I which is why I fit them the way I do out at the bottom of the splash plate.

Stuart.

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9 hours ago, Jase said:

Well Mabel is currently sat in a warm garage. Although I shall be moving her shortly to make way for a new purchase.

 

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What have you bought now?

Stuart.

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41 minutes ago, Jase said:

Has anyone produced a step by step guide for repairing the bottom of the boot lid? Thanks

Hi Jase,

step by step would be awkward as there are quite a few variables.

Firstly you need a repair panel the fits the shape of the boot lid. It needs to be the correct depth ad widt (after taking nto consideration the curve from left to rigt.

You need to remove the minimum from the actual boot. The more you remove the more work there is to get the correct shape back.

The vertical drop at the back is not straight down - it is curved.

Quite often the bottom flange of the  internal rib has rotted away - Making these is fun.

PM sent

 

Roger

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12 hours ago, Jase said:

Just made some room with the Spitfire for the TR this winter.

Although I think I need to paint the floor after the front end spray.

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I have a single car prefab garage and I need a bigger garage  !!

but it seems you always fill the available space !! :rolleyes::D

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4 hours ago, Hamish said:

I have a single car prefab garage and I need a bigger garage  !!

but it seems you always fill the available space !! :rolleyes::D

If I could fit another car in alongside the TR when it is in there I would :) too much space is fatal :) 

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Safe and sound and tucked in for the Winter. Plan is to remove the dashboard and top and windscreen surround, repair and repaint and fit a new screen, replace interior with new and service carbs. That should take me until April :) 

 

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6 minutes ago, Jase said:

Would help if I did somw research - new dash :)

Do be aware that you need to check the fit of everything in replacement dashes as the thickness of lacquer often makes it difficult to fit clocks. Original dash didnt have much depth of finish.

Stuart.

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Thanks Stuart, I was wondering what it was and the conversation I had with the supplier was very similar to your comments. I’ve re-veneered a few dashboards so will do mine as well.

not sure if anyone knows the best varnish/lqcquer to ise to achieve the matt/Satin finish?

Thanks

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1 hour ago, Jase said:

Thanks Stuart, I was wondering what it was and the conversation I had with the supplier was very similar to your comments. I’ve re-veneered a few dashboards so will do mine as well.

not sure if anyone knows the best varnish/lqcquer to ise to achieve the matt/Satin finish?

Thanks

2K lacquer would do, FWIW Ive got a spare litre of satin lacquer if you want it.

Stuart.

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Could someone advise the best way of removing the winscreen frame please? Should I first remove the screen? Where is the best place to purchase a new screen and rubbers. I’ve located the two bolts either side of the screen (pic below) and the three bolts on top of the dash. Are there anymore? Thanks

 

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