Geko Posted April 3, 2021 Report Share Posted April 3, 2021 3 hours ago, Jase said: Well, spot on with the engine mounts, onejust popped so ordered a new set, changing all of the hoses at the moment and a new peyrol pipe kit on the way to battle the old ethanol. I suspect you jacked-up the engine without loosening the engine mounts bolts and probably why it popped... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bfg Posted April 3, 2021 Report Share Posted April 3, 2021 I think your and my list are running concurrently. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jase Posted April 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2021 2 hours ago, Geko said: I suspect you jacked-up the engine without loosening the engine mounts bolts and probably why it popped... I didn't and I should have but to be honest they look like they need changing like every other rubber pipe on the car. I was going to do it this year anyway Is the engine mount under the carbs as easy to get to as the other side? I haven't investigated that side yet, tooo many jobs to do today Thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bfg Posted April 5, 2021 Report Share Posted April 5, 2021 On 4/3/2021 at 7:05 PM, Jase said: Is the engine mount under the carbs as easy to get to as the other side? I haven't investigated that side yet, tooo many jobs to do today I've not done it (..yet) but as I cannot even get a camera in there to see what sort of condition it's in.. I'm guess it would be easier to get to from under the car. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted April 6, 2021 Report Share Posted April 6, 2021 17 hours ago, Bfg said: I've not done it (..yet) but as I cannot even get a camera in there to see what sort of condition it's in.. I'm guess it would be easier to get to from under the car. No it wouldnt, its done from the top. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bfg Posted April 6, 2021 Report Share Posted April 6, 2021 Cheers Stuart. I reckon it's a job I won't be looking forward to doing then. I'm going to get rectangular mounts again. I'm advised Land Rover ones are very similar but have slightly larger studs, and so the chassis holes need to be redrilled for the next size. Easy enough when the engine's out but not something I want to struggle with in-situ. I guess all of the principle suppliers offer appropriate ones, but is there anything I ought to know before ordering or in fitting. Thanks, Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted April 6, 2021 Report Share Posted April 6, 2021 there are uprated ones on the market the likes of revington do them just so you are aware. may be too inflexible for road use ?? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jase Posted April 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2021 I've put an order into TRGB for replacements, also thoughtI'd change my joining pipe from the waterpump hose to the bottom of the rad to stainless at the same time. Arriving tomorrow so aiming to fit it all tomorrow if the weather is good to me. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted April 6, 2021 Report Share Posted April 6, 2021 35 minutes ago, Bfg said: Cheers Stuart. I reckon it's a job I won't be looking forward to doing then. I'm going to get rectangular mounts again. I'm advised Land Rover ones are very similar but have slightly larger studs, and so the chassis holes need to be redrilled for the next size. Easy enough when the engine's out but not something I want to struggle with in-situ. I guess all of the principle suppliers offer appropriate ones, but is there anything I ought to know before ordering or in fitting. Thanks, Pete Theyre a straight swap no drilling required IIRC. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted April 6, 2021 Report Share Posted April 6, 2021 4 hours ago, Bfg said: I'm advised Land Rover ones are very similar but have slightly larger studs, and so the chassis holes need to be redrilled for the next size. 8mm instead of the original 5/16, so not a problem, but you'll need to change the nuts of course. Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jase Posted April 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2021 (edited) all my goodies arrived today, going to wait for a warm day before I fit the petrol pipes and also less fuel in the tank, hoping that when I jack her up on the side it won’t all run out. Question, if you do this where do you secure your spare fan belt? Engine mounts and rad hoses fitted today, water test tomorrow. Edited April 7, 2021 by Jase Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Geko Posted April 7, 2021 Report Share Posted April 7, 2021 (edited) 12 hours ago, Jase said: Question, if you do this where do you secure your spare fan belt? A bit iconoclastic but my emergency stretchable fan belt was... in the boot. Edited April 8, 2021 by Geko Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted April 8, 2021 Report Share Posted April 8, 2021 In my opinion a good quality toothed type "20" does not fail, I use a "Flennor 20X900", anyway I have a spare part (to help others) in my boot. A typ "17" also works if it is not smaller than 17 mm (sadly I own a Gates "17" only 16 mm wide because of the tolerances). Infact the "20" is much too solid for the TRs, recommended for pulleys not smaller than 160 mm. This explains why you don't get a "20" shorter than 900 mm (2 pulleys 160 mm + minimum distance between + lenght to get the belt fitted) Anyway I use the "20"( toothed) on the tiny TR4 pulleys without problems. Ciao, Marco Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jase Posted April 8, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2021 Is this the correct route for a petrol pipe? Seems to be fouling the ignition leads. Thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted April 8, 2021 Report Share Posted April 8, 2021 Should be a tad higher I would say. 90° plug caps would sort that out. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted April 8, 2021 Report Share Posted April 8, 2021 60 degree plug caps would help. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jase Posted April 8, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2021 Thanks Bob, good idea, will pick up some new plug leads shortly. Thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jase Posted April 8, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2021 Any tips for bending the fuel pipe neatly? Thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mrehke Posted April 8, 2021 Report Share Posted April 8, 2021 17 minutes ago, Jase said: Any tips for bending the fuel pipe neatly? Thanks Jase - Try something like this - https://www.frost.co.uk/brake-pipe-and-tube-bender/ - other pipe benders are available too... Mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BRENDA1 Posted April 8, 2021 Report Share Posted April 8, 2021 Mine is just a bit higher than yours. Mike Redrose Group Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Geko Posted April 8, 2021 Report Share Posted April 8, 2021 Or re-routing the fuel line (flexible) behind the engine swap the lids of the fuel bowls if you have have SUs and plug the fuel inlet on the rear carb. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jase Posted April 8, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2021 Thanks everyone, this is a fantastic forum. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jase Posted April 8, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2021 So, Mabel the TR4A is earning her keep. Off to the local recycling centre now Look away if you are feint hearted Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jase Posted April 9, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2021 18 hours ago, mrehke said: Jase - Try something like this - https://www.frost.co.uk/brake-pipe-and-tube-bender/ - other pipe benders are available too... Mark Thanks Mark, that reminded about a brake pipe flaring kit and shaping tool I lent to someone over 5 years ago and I'm still waiting for it to be returned, will chase again. I should follow the advice from my father 'Never a lender or borrower be' so many tools missing over the years Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobTR3 Posted April 9, 2021 Report Share Posted April 9, 2021 On 4/6/2021 at 1:50 PM, Bfg said: Cheers Stuart. I reckon it's a job I won't be looking forward to doing then. I'm going to get rectangular mounts again. I'm advised Land Rover ones are very similar but have slightly larger studs, and so the chassis holes need to be redrilled for the next size. Easy enough when the engine's out but not something I want to struggle with in-situ. I guess all of the principle suppliers offer appropriate ones, but is there anything I ought to know before ordering or in fitting. Thanks, Pete Pete Don't buy the updated engine mounts, they are too harsh for road use. I tried them and immediately swapped them out for standard mounts. There is too much resonance which will be very noticeable compared with well worn and softened rubber on the old mounts. Access is mainly from above, but you can get at the lower steady bracket from below (TR3) for additional access. I also removed the dynamo and disconnected the hose/steel pipe on the nearside from the water pump housing and pushed it towards the water pump clear of nearside mount. Both give you a better chance to get spanner access. Rob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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