Brian Wiggins Posted April 22, 2020 Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 I'm wondering whether anyone can assist with the correct procedure to remove the front bumper from a late CR UK spec TR6? I've removed both bolts from the front wings but I cannot see how I can access the bolts through the front valance or from above. I can barely get my fingers through the available gaps let alone a socket and manipulate extensions and a ratchet. Am I missing a trick here? The Haynes manual for a TR5/6 only describes a 5 and the official 'brown' book just says 'remove bolts' but it doesn't tell you how! Can't believe there is no mention of this on this forum or on the wider internet! Thanks in advance! Brian Wiggins Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graham Posted April 22, 2020 Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 Brian just been out in the garage and had a look at BUO ( for the first time in 3 weeks ! ) so if you lay on the floor and look underneath the car, locate the bumper iron that connects the front bumper to the chassis, follow this with your hand forwards and you will locate the head of the fixing bolt. Its is a bit of a phaff to reach it and it will all be by feel rather than sight ! if its not been off for a while usual caveats about plenty of penetrating oil will apply and don't forget how heavy/awkward it will once you have it disconnected so mind the paintwork ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mk2 Chopper Posted April 22, 2020 Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 Bolt's accessible from below, I remember you did have to have a lot of dexterity, using sockets. Gareth Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Brian Wiggins Posted April 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 Thanks guys! I spent some time lastb night and early this morning trying to get a socket on the bolt head but it's really tight and my hands and wrists are not the largest. i wasnt sure whether it was easier to access from above as there is a bit of space on the LH side of a RHD car if you remove the radiator overflow bottle and bracket. I'm happy to persist on your advice although I'm staggered that the factory made it this difficult to fit in production and 45/50 years on there is so little information out there on what is the most awkward job I've faced in 10 years of working on the car! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DRD Posted April 22, 2020 Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 Hi Brian, The only way I could reach it was via long socket extensions with a universal joint. I did it all by touch as I couldn't see anything, but once you get the socket on the bolt head it undid quite easily. Cheers Daz Quote Link to post Share on other sites
keith1948 Posted April 22, 2020 Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 Hello Brian Hope you are both well. Only thing I can suggest is copious penetrating oil and a beer or two. (The beer is for you not the bumper!) I had a nightmare job trying to get the back bumper off my 4A so can understand the issues. Maybe email me a photo or two to see if I can suggest something. Keith Brown Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Brian Wiggins Posted April 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 Hi Keith, We're fine thanks! Great advice as always and I will send photos whilst trying the socket set with a U/J. and extensions approach suggested by DRD. Quite concerned at the prospect of not getting the socket on properly and rounding the bolt head off so the copious amounts of WD40 and beer is a very sound suggestion! See you at a Cotswold Vale event sometime soon but in the meantime stay safe! Brian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aardvark Posted April 22, 2020 Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 I took the front bumper off my CP two weeks ago to clean it up and to paint the inside. I’m not aware of any fixing point differences between the cp and cr - still 4 bolts in the same places. The only difficulty on mine was the os side bolt seized. I had to cut the head off then drill out the shank with the bumper removed. The two centre bolts seemed fairly easy to undo. I tackled it from below with my car on a hoist, so plenty of space to see what I was doing. I used a socket with extensions. Beware when removing the bumper as you don’t want to drop it. cheers dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Brian Wiggins Posted April 23, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2020 Many thanks Dave! I didn't get the chance to have another go last night but I will this evening. I'm sure the fittings are the same for both CP & CR models and I will jack the front end up and remove the front wheels to give me some more room. That said the gap between the front valance and the inner wing is so small I'm as worried about getting the bumper back on even if I can get it off! Would access be resolved if I removed the front indicator/stop lights and would that not have been the way they were installed in the factory? They could possibly have made it this difficult to fit from underneath? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aardvark Posted April 23, 2020 Report Share Posted April 23, 2020 Morning Brian. I've just been out to the garage to take this picture. The hole for the bumper bolt should be clearly seen. Sockets with wobble extensions will easily reach it from below. Good luck - Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Brian Wiggins Posted April 23, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2020 Thanks Dave! It may just be that with the car on the ground and the fact that it has lowered springs makes it more difficult so I will jack it up and remove the wheels as mentioned before! Point about the weight of the bumper also noted! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paulfc Posted April 23, 2020 Report Share Posted April 23, 2020 Brian, I’d strongly recommend PlusGas penetrating aerosol with a “straw’ extension to soak the nuts. WD40 won’t cut it and, I understand, isn’t intended for this purpose. Paul Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mk2 Chopper Posted April 23, 2020 Report Share Posted April 23, 2020 32 minutes ago, Brian Wiggins said: ....the fact that it has lowered springs.... You can't say that and not post a picture of how it looks and by how much/which springs! Gareth Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Brian Wiggins Posted April 23, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2020 Sorry Gareth! The lowered springs makes a difference to the height of the body when the car is on the ground. It therefore restricts the space I have to manipulate my arms and tools on the end of them! Unfortunately with the wheels on I can't get even a mobile phone into a position that will get a decent image. That said it does appear to be the same as Dave's photo even though I've started on the left hand side. I'll be out there this evening with a socket with a UJ.with an update to follow! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mk2 Chopper Posted April 23, 2020 Report Share Posted April 23, 2020 Don't worry Brian, it's not so much the springs I want to see but the car and how it sits, or to use the modern parlance it's 'stance'. Gareth Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Brian Wiggins Posted April 24, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2020 Managed to jack up the n/s and remove the road wheel this evening! This creates enough space to get a 9/16ths ring spanner on the bolt head and remove it. I will try the o/s tomorrow.I didn't need penetrating fluid but I have positioned two axle stands under the bumper to take the weight! It looks like I have a result so thanks for your help! Still don't believe this was the way they were fitted in the factory though! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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