ntc Posted April 25, 2020 Report Share Posted April 25, 2020 3 hours ago, stuart said: They must have done a lot of work on that then as there was no way it would have passed at the time I looked at it. Stuart. You remember it Stuart what a mess ruined the car Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted April 25, 2020 Report Share Posted April 25, 2020 (edited) Hi, I followed this thread and want to add some points. Indees the power (current) of electric power steering units is very hight due to the data sheet, but they are built for cars who can't be driven without. Our TRs are built to work without and only a little extra power is needed for our 185/195/205 tyres, that's only 20 - 40 Watt, more you can't work with your arms. I meassured on my TR (185 tyres) about 0,2 -0,5 A for standby, about 2 A for driving normal bended roads, 4 A for parking assistance. A 10 A fuse is enought. So please don't have any worry about the needed current at all. The self return of the steering wheel is a matter of the geometry of the front axle and steering rack. The electric power steering is on the steering column and does not effect the front axle's geometry or the steering rack in any way. If not supplied with voltage by the regulator because of turning the steering wheel it runs absolutely free. So the self return is not effected in any way, you can check this on any new small car with EPAS. I spend about less than 150 Euro for my DIY project, all you need on top is a lathe, welder, drilling machine, workshop, some patience, skills and technical interest. If you have to pay someone with a commercial business for his lathe, welder, drilling machine, workshop, his patience, skills and technical interest, also his marketing, profit and risk in a very small market for a unique product - the price of 2,100 GBP is OK in my opinion - if it works. Please mind the space for a EPAS on our TRs is very limited between the bulkdead an the dashboard - that also caused my some problems. They are eaven more because the very popular Mitsubishi unit (Renault Clio II) can be installed angled left-down on LHD TRs - but I guess it must be installrd right-up on RHD TRs. And there the space is limited double. Ciao, Marco Edited April 26, 2020 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted April 26, 2020 Report Share Posted April 26, 2020 The 40 amp requirement was the spec asked for by the supplier. Plus this was 12 yrs ago so I suspect the units have moved on from then. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted April 26, 2020 Report Share Posted April 26, 2020 The 40 A was asked because he did not know better. Or because he wants no complaints from customers. But a 40A fuse us dangerous in a car! The cable can already burn while the fuse still is OK! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nigel A Posted April 26, 2020 Report Share Posted April 26, 2020 Finally decided to install the CDD power steering as I’m finding it increasingly difficult to perform low speed manoeuvres. I will chat with them tomorrow and hopefully they will be in stock. Any tips for the installation would be appreciated. Nigel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted April 26, 2020 Report Share Posted April 26, 2020 3 minutes ago, Z320 said: The 40 A was asked because he did not know better. Or because he wants no complaints from customers. But a 40A fuse us dangerous in a car! The cable can already burn while the fuse still is OK! No I had a custom made loom with a correct 40amp supply built into it before we decided not to go with it. Stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted April 26, 2020 Report Share Posted April 26, 2020 (edited) Yes, your supplier did not know better Edited April 26, 2020 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Malbaby Posted December 8, 2020 Report Share Posted December 8, 2020 I am still trying to establish what car the Classic Driving Development's PAS came out of. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Pope Posted December 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2020 No idea but it looks new as opposed to some refurbished pump so assume a reasonably common car. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Malbaby Posted December 26, 2020 Report Share Posted December 26, 2020 Anyone else care to comment? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Malbaby Posted December 31, 2020 Report Share Posted December 31, 2020 (edited) How are the upper and lower sections of the completed EPAS column installed without removing the dash.?? Edited December 31, 2020 by Malbaby Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Pope Posted January 1, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2021 No idea as I'm a long way off re-building my TR6. However PM me your e-mail address and I'll send you the instructions. I would guess, though, you simply disconnect at one of the UJ points in the column. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted January 2, 2021 Report Share Posted January 2, 2021 (edited) On 1/1/2021 at 12:36 AM, Malbaby said: How are the upper and lower sections of the completed EPAS column installed without removing the dash.?? Yes, I think this could work. You only have to grind or cut off the bracket for the steering column which is welded on the bulkhead, find a different way to fix it on the bulkhead (I've seen that at the www), cut a 33 mm long piece ( at least) out of the steel part of the dashboard, with this you probably loose the 2 bolts holding the upper ali bracket for the column on the dashboard, and find a different way to fix the EPS there. But I'm not shure, you finally have to find this out on your own risk. Ciao, Marco Edited January 2, 2021 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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