Tony_C Posted April 19, 2020 Report Share Posted April 19, 2020 Back to this blasted overdrive... Quick preamble some of you may recall I previously played around with the wiring and ended up with the below result.. Now, with the tunnel off as per above, I’m thinking of starting Gbox end, clean-up (all looks OK and not mechanically stuck).....Can i do any more damage by first putting 12v directly across the solenoid; +ve earth still so pos to solenoid Wire? As ever, any and all suggestions how to best proceed gratefully received.. The damage I did at the other end has shot away at my confidence on this.. Thanks, Tony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rodbr Posted April 19, 2020 Report Share Posted April 19, 2020 Hi Tony, TBH you either need a new overdrive loom or make your own, I would not use any of what you have there!!!!!! It has been roasted and all insulation so suspect Also go to first principals and check the Relay. You need to be able to see the the terminal designations i.e. WI W2 C1 C2etc there are four. so clean the bottom of the relay off. here's a simple diagram and just take baby steps. I fear that you cooked your o/d solonoid and ended up with pullin load for longer than the fuse could handle . you may have had the wrong size fuse power from fuse box. something should have blown before the resultant fire I think you can just make out the alternative relay numbers if not using a Lucas 6 RA hope this is of some use give me a pm if you need more help. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ChrisR-4A Posted April 19, 2020 Report Share Posted April 19, 2020 Hi Tony two things confuse me, firstly in your photo the top half of the solenoid appears to be missing. Secondly if the car is positive earth then the wire to the solenoid coil will need to be the negative wire as the casing will be positive earthed through the mounting. Chris Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tony_C Posted April 19, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2020 Hi Rod, Thanks that’s brilliant.. Firstly, hope your wife and son are both on the mend and life is one the up’.. Much as it can be in these times. No, definitely will not be using any of the cooked wiring.. Agree I have (and deserve to) also stuffed the o/d solenoid but would putting 12v directly into it prove this for sure, without risking damage further up towards relay etc? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rodbr Posted April 19, 2020 Report Share Posted April 19, 2020 (edited) Hi chris , the least of his worries. Tony, I would change polarity to negative earth. I suggest that you solonoid is dead an not worth the risk playing with. You would need to re-assemble it because at present top half is missing. There is a switch in the top unit which switches the pullin power to holding power and this is likely to be seized or melted. The piston you see in your pic, pushes up wards and pushes a pin which makes and breaks a contsct inside the rubber top cover. This perishes and gets wet and the pin sticks causing pullin in power, 18 -20 amps I think, to reduce to a nominal power to hold the solonoid piston and engage the o/d. If in doubt take the whole solonoid off the box to the bench to work on it. Rod Edited April 19, 2020 by Rodbr Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tony_C Posted April 19, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2020 2 minutes ago, ChrisR-4A said: Hi Tony two things confuse me, firstly in your photo the top half of the solenoid appears to be missing. Secondly if the car is positive earth then the wire to the solenoid coil will need to be the negative wire as the casing will be positive earthed through the mounting. Chris Hi Chris, Thanks, you are correct, I undid the two screws to have a look inside but all clean and boxed-off now........ OF COURSE re the wiring....50-50 and i could have got it wrong! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rodbr Posted April 19, 2020 Report Share Posted April 19, 2020 If you look inside the bit you have in you sticky mit inside you should see a pin head maybe 2-3 mm sticking out into the outer tube. Under the rubber cap the pin comes through and pushes on a reed switch. This is in a plastic mount which does not stand up well being heated up. The pin must be able to float freely and make and break the reed blade switch thingy. Drop me a pm and I'll draw a sketch. Rod Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tony_C Posted April 19, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2020 Will do Rod... In the meantime, Just put 12v directly onto the solenoid and it does pull straight up... I’ll take apart again and investigate the reed switch next.. Thanks both of you, Tony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tony_C Posted April 19, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2020 PM just sent Rod Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tony_C Posted April 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2020 UPDATE: Big thanks to Rod and Chris..... Overdrive back to working like a dream!.. Managed to re-use all the original bullet connections and the solder I have is also I reckon from around 65 years old. ...(Been busy with work work up until yesterday) Now on a roll, have pushed my luck and posted on ‘wanted/swap’ if anyone has an old spare O/D switch they don’t need? Cheers Tony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rodbr Posted April 27, 2020 Report Share Posted April 27, 2020 (edited) Hi Tny, Before you pat your back too vociferously I would check the loads with a multi meter to see that there is indeed a drop in load when overdrive is engaged and it is on the holding coil power draw. It is possible for it to work (for a short period perhaps 20-30 miles ) but for it to be the pull in load thats holding it there and it will overheat eventually. Now all you need to do is check settings for the overdrive actuator arm. Discription of how to do this just a search away. You must feel proud it means that much more when you sort an issue yourself! Rod Edited April 27, 2020 by Rodbr Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tony_C Posted April 27, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2020 Good morning Rod, and thanks again for so firmly pointing me on the right track.. No, not at all proud of this particular saga.. (Although, in the end - time will indeed tell - pleased to have boxed it off as good or better than original).. Cannot be proud when this is very possibly the most stupid thing I have done in all my years of ownership... Something I do not tolerate in my work sphere, I jumped to (wrong?!) conclusion that relay looked superficially very poor therefore, (because I did not want to pull carpets and tunnel out, crawl around underneath etc) without the proper and full analysis I proceeded to compound all the troubles and woes... On a final positive note, once the tunnel was off, I saw few ‘inaccessible’ areas that needed greasing (nipple had gone on UJ - easily replaced) my neighbour who I had not spoken to since lockdown asked to borrow some of my old woodworking tools.. Basis he gave me as new Draper grease gun And very professional looking timing gizmo! - Happy Days, sun was shining and we had social distancing beer, feeling all is good with our fellow humans... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted April 27, 2020 Report Share Posted April 27, 2020 Issue I had that fried the solenoid wire was that my overdrive had a rubber buffer below the solenoid plunger, where we expect to find an adjustable threaded stop. The rubber stop had got oily (how can that happen?) and the plunger had stuck to it. Energise the solenoid and the plunger just stayed where it was. Thankfully the short wire into the solenoid overheated and failed, thus saving the overdrive loom. I have now replaced the lower plunger rubber stop with a screw and lock nut, so hopefully that is an issue not to reoccur. Items 56 & 57 here in attachment. Cheers Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.