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surrey soft top fitting


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3 minutes ago, harlequin said:

Stuart

I am a Surrey top newbie and still looking for the best/easiest way to put the soft top on especially in a panic during a downpour. I do find the one drawback with the TR6 header rail is they are a little heavy but I do like the positive way they fix.

I am assuming that when you erect the soft top you first lay the front rail onto the top of the screen with the material hanging over the screen onto the bonnet, then insert the front of the H into the header rail, next locate the back of the H, followed by laying the material over the H frame and locating it onto the backlight, and finally doing up the 2 handels on the screen to make it nice and snug.

George 

Sort of but if the front two sticks are fairly stiff to turn you can just unfold to the standard "H" pattern, insert the rear in the frame and the front ends just resting on the screen top then drape the material over  and engage the header rail without clamping, do up the rear rail then the front latches and finally the centre poppers, That way you have the cockpit covered quicker and your not risking the rear rail scratching paint work.

Stuart.

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Thanks Stuart 

That makes a bit more sense then what I have been doing, ie fitting the rear 1st 

The Z shaped pegs  will be a big help as I was a bit worried that I would drop the header rail on paint or windscreen while juggling to keep straight pins in place

George 

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20 minutes ago, harlequin said:

Thanks Stuart 

That makes a bit more sense then what I have been doing, ie fitting the rear 1st 

The Z shaped pegs  will be a big help as I was a bit worried that I would drop the header rail on paint or windscreen while juggling to keep straight pins in place

George 

If you think about it they have to be that shape to go over then down through the header rail then forward to be able to engage properly in the holes at the outer ends of the header rail.

Stuart.

Edited by stuart
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8 hours ago, stuart said:

Nice idea but I suspect they will stickup too much into the material so you`ll have a couple of "Humps" in the front eitherside.

Stuart.

Gave it a try and seems like it will sit ok. The ball joints are below the level of the standoffs on the header rail. I’ll probably add an extra layer of material in case of rubbing but hopefully will still be fairly unnoticeable.

i guess if it looks odd when I get the hood altered to fit I can revert to the z bar approach. 

41FEA7BA-7FE1-4EE0-9653-93F135A84D03.jpeg

75187544-2B31-4710-922A-D30CBDF62DA3.jpeg

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When I experienced the Surrey vinyl deciding to come adrift from its dodgy fitment under the windscreen capping, I decided to secure the vinyl in place with a couple of bolts. I inserted eyelets in the vinyl, and used chromed bolts, domed nuts, and rubber sealing washers. The bolt heads don't stansd out that much! A couple of shots attached.

Best wishes    Willie

7c. Surrey in place.JPG

1a. Hole in frame capping for vinyl bolt OS.JPG

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Hi every one, just to show there are many ways to skin a cat, here is my effort at fitting a surrey top to a TR6.

The front is fitted to a late spitfire header rail with no other poppers. Also no popper at the side centre section.

 

1173294980_Hood1.thumb.JPG.16c3bb98f54fe61c860986863f858edc.JPG

 

At the rear I have used a Tenax fastener each side.

951669842_Hood2.thumb.JPG.9d027d1f371e54a0c27d00d52b4e99e4.JPG

 

The front H frame is cut to length and bolted to the header rail, which creates a rigid front half of the frame.

2118877069_Hood5.thumb.JPG.1d05f26093ec1a70af2cad21d41ef014.JPG

 

 

The rear rail is held in place using these quick release catches as suggested by another member some months ago.

1355164637_Hood4.thumb.JPG.603a65219241d22472e7d3692db74fea.JPG

 

 

The centre section of the hood is left secured to the H frame.

1329850862_Hood3.thumb.JPG.94f96666176997ab1fd2578dcac8c356.JPG

 

When the rear legs are folded against the centre rail and the hood folded over the whole assembly fits very neatly into the bottom of a TR6 boot

IF you replace the boot rear liner with a non Pi item. My pump is under the floor so there is no need for the board to cover the pump.

Hope this make sense.

Stay safe. 

John W

 

 

 

 

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15 hours ago, johnw said:

Hi every one, just to show there are many ways to skin a cat, here is my effort at fitting a surrey top to a TR6.

The front is fitted to a late spitfire header rail with no other poppers. Also no popper at the side centre section.

 

1173294980_Hood1.thumb.JPG.16c3bb98f54fe61c860986863f858edc.JPG

 

At the rear I have used a Tenax fastener each side.

951669842_Hood2.thumb.JPG.9d027d1f371e54a0c27d00d52b4e99e4.JPG

 

The front H frame is cut to length and bolted to the header rail, which creates a rigid front half of the frame.

2118877069_Hood5.thumb.JPG.1d05f26093ec1a70af2cad21d41ef014.JPG

 

 

The rear rail is held in place using these quick release catches as suggested by another member some months ago.

1355164637_Hood4.thumb.JPG.603a65219241d22472e7d3692db74fea.JPG

 

 

The centre section of the hood is left secured to the H frame.

1329850862_Hood3.thumb.JPG.94f96666176997ab1fd2578dcac8c356.JPG

 

When the rear legs are folded against the centre rail and the hood folded over the whole assembly fits very neatly into the bottom of a TR6 boot

IF you replace the boot rear liner with a non Pi item. My pump is under the floor so there is no need for the board to cover the pump.

Hope this make sense.

Stay safe. 

John W

 

 

 

 

Years ago I had a similar arrangement that came with a European market TR5, it did take up a lot of room in the boot on a 5 though.

Stuart.

 

Surrey top 004.jpg

Surrey top 003.jpg

Surrey top 002.jpg

Surrey top 001.jpg

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Some great solutions to making the Surrey top a little easier to use.

thanks very much for all the pictures, all very helpful.

I have been considering adding a couple of cut outs to the tr6 header rail.

So that the h frame could quickly be inserted into the front and rear screen frames, then the soft top laid over the top and secured at the rear then the turn handles on the header rail.

Anyone have any experience as to whether this would/ wouldn’t work?

 

thanks Neil

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I have read this topic with a great deal of interest as I am currently fitting a surrey to my 4a.

I will be fitting a modern header rail to the front TR6? but liked the quick release catches to the rear as JohnW used,

any idea where I can get a set from?

Still not  sure about the fitting of the H frame to the front as difficult to make it look neat.

Suggestions very welcome

Best regards Lee

Stay healthy (looks like us over 50's will have to stay locked in even longer)

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44 minutes ago, Lee Dutton said:

I have read this topic with a great deal of interest as I am currently fitting a surrey to my 4a.

I will be fitting a modern header rail to the front TR6? but liked the quick release catches to the rear as JohnW used,

any idea where I can get a set from?

Still not  sure about the fitting of the H frame to the front as difficult to make it look neat.

Suggestions very welcome

Best regards Lee

Stay healthy (looks like us over 50's will have to stay locked in even longer)

Ebay, I bought a couple some time ago but unfortunately I cannot remove the two screws that locate the present set up. They are seized solid.

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Hi 

This is how I connected the front to a TR6 header rail. The pins are cut from  1/4" bolts and the grommets are normally used for the TR4/5 (and Minis amongst others) windscreen wiper motor mounting. Part number 17H5431.

Ian

Surrey frame front.JPG

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  • 4 weeks later...

Seems like there are many workable approaches for the hood frame.  What do people normally do for the hood itself?

I have 2 but both look like there won't be enough material to stretch over and under the new header rail so it can get riveted in under the seal channels.

Is it nomally a case of a bespoke hood or are there pre-manufactured ones which are unfinished at the front? Or am I just not pulling hard enough?!

Any recommendations or advice welcome.

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17 hours ago, napatec said:

Seems like there are many workable approaches for the hood frame.  What do people normally do for the hood itself?

I have 2 but both look like there won't be enough material to stretch over and under the new header rail so it can get riveted in under the seal channels.

Is it nomally a case of a bespoke hood or are there pre-manufactured ones which are unfinished at the front? Or am I just not pulling hard enough?!

Any recommendations or advice welcome.

I buy mine with just a waste edge at the front from here https://coventry-hood-tonneau.business.site/

Stuart.

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  • 1 year later...

So I'm just at the point of doing this header rail modification on the 4a, taking the many great contributions into account. My question is does my H frame look about right? and the rear rail which fits inside the Surrey rear edge and secures to the backlight looks to be sitting rather proud of the backlight top (Honeybourne), is that right or should it sit more flush?

Many thanks

David1375339282_myhframe1.thumb.JPG.27746be2605bd1b41c44a64e9123790e.JPG2003674464_myhframe2.thumb.JPG.10b98ec09fb71dd31b8d4380abb1e5c6.JPG

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David,

I think thats a tad too 'Peaked' Check it over the door glas with the top on, for me it wants to be 'Flatter'

John.

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Whats the relationship between the ends of the middle rail and the window glasses? It does look a little high and that rear rail does need to fit closer to the top of the rear frame so it needs flattening out a bit. Your front ends of the frame needs to fit better with the header rail too, I cut the ends off and weld in a "Z" piece of 1/4" bar to engage with the holes in the ends of the header rail so the whole thing sits flatter.

Stuart.

 

RIMG0048.JPG

RIMG0047.JPG

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Thank you, i thought so. Stuart do you have a phot of the end of the front rail with the 'Z' bar welded on to it please? I'll give the frame a mild flattening to see if I can improve it. Pic below shows the middle bar at the window top, other side is the same

David

my h frame2.JPG

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I copied the idea from the Revington way of fitting it. Ignore the clips for the elastics on the inside as thats wrong in this picture.. I cut 1 1/4" off the ends of the forward bars and then welded in the Z to the end and flattened the tubes. When fitting you lift the header rail up at the front and engage it into the end pins.

 

17052009305.jpg

72C7B8D1-B388-4405-9B4F-34704BC9F84A.jpeg

Edited by stuart
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Thanks Stuart, Is the second phot showing what you cut off the original front leg of the frame?

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