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Hi all,

Lost the clutch. Pedal to the floor and surprise surprise no fluid in the master cylinder. Car hasn’t been driven over the winter save for a couple of mile blast a couple of weeks ago.  There is no evidence of fluid leak on garage floor but that aside inspection of the slave cylinder shows a lot of wear marks on the piston, even if the seal doesn’t look bad. Anyway decided that a new slave is in order, but the one removed has County S02 10 or SO2 10 and 7/8” on outer casting surface. I see that all the usual suspects have the standard 1” slave available with the exception of Revington who also list a 7/8” bore alternative at twice the price.

Now I would like replacement to be similar to existing, but to muddy the water a little more the bore of the existing cylinder is actually 1” and not 7/8” as shown on the casting. 

Anyone come across anything similar, and knowing that there is a lot of scepticism around regarding spare part quality are there any good recommendations for a replacement source? Would be also good to know what the actual size of the standard 1” bore slave is - 1 1/8” maybe? 

I attach a couple of pics for reference. As usual many thanks in anticipation for all gems of wisdom from what is the best knowledge database on the planet.

thanks,

TonyC

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Edited by TonyC
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Hi Tony,
Normally bore is indicated on the casting.

if the bore is not corroded you could consider hohning it and install a new seal. Not sure if the spare seals fit on a county product, but others will know.

Waldi

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Tony - for my various restorations, I had a batch of girling alloy slave cylinders refurbished by Past Parts and I also had some cast iron ones which I thought were from the 6 cylinder cars and which I thought I might as well get done at the same time.

Both the cast iron ones look very similar to yours and one has SO2 cast into it's casing but no other IDs - I've taken the rubber cap off and measured the internal diameter which measures 0.998 inches so effectively 1". The other one is almost identical and is an AP Lockheed one which has a number 99364?  Q-310 and measures the same internally.

Please see the photos below

It would seem that a 1" bore is fine - hope this helps 

Cheers  Rich

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Thanks, Rich and Waldi for your informative replies. Based on your comments and further reading of Roger Williams books on rebuilding and improving 6’s, I have concluded that my existing slave is in fact a 7/8” diameter version refurbished to 1”.  It’s really the only explanation given the very clear marking on the casting.  I have the adjustable push rod arrangement so have ordered with some confidence a replacement 1” slave. Will let you know if there are any problems arising.

Many thanks guys.

TonyC

 

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  • 1 year later...

Hi TonyC

I am having serious hydraulic problems and have been posting about my problems.

Can you please let me know how you resolved your problem, and what bore size master and slave cylinder worked for you.

My car came with both cheap after market cylinders, and although the slave cylinder had a 7/8 (17.780mm) casting size, it was in fact 22.225mm a big difference.

Thank you,

Mick. 

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Hi Mick,

unless I do not understand (could well be), 7/8” equals 22,225 mm, not 17,78 mm.

My experience:
After reading all the posts on this forum (we all learn), I ensured all parts/area’s were inspected and items replaced/improved as needed:

1) Pedal bushings (new)

2) All pins (new), to reduce play.

3) Master - and slave cylinder: reconditioned.

4) Carrier (sleeve) and GB- nose: deburred and  polished; I re-used the steel sleeve since it looked ok. I applied MO2S grease during assy.

5) New clutch shaft (in GB bell house) and new bearings. Lubed again with MO2S.

6) Additional roll pin to “help” the tapered pin (which was also replaced).

7) New clutch bearing.

I did not replace the drive- and driven plate as they were almost new (B&B by the way).

My clutch works fine, and much lighter than before work commenced.

Cheers,
Waldi

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Thank you Waldi.

I have a topic open which you have helped me with, (Clutch problem).

I have yet to solve my problem, but getting there, which I will update on my own topic.

As ntc has advised me in the past, it is easy to think I have more than one topic asking the same questions.

What I have done as here, when I find someone with a similar problem I ask a question, and then there topic takes on a life of its own. 

Sorry for my mistake, because my car is 4 miles away from my house I got confused, the dimension of 17.780mm is the bore size of my new Girling clutch master cylinder .70 64676310, and my new clutch slave cylinder is a AP Lockheed clutch slave cylinder 99364C Q-310 which could have a bore size of 1 inch 25.349mm, yet to be confirmed.

I do not think they are compatible, to short a throw at the clutch lever, only about an 8mm movement, not enough for the clutch to operate. 

With a friend who understands Triumphs and hydraulics we are doing are homework to see where my problem is with my new components.

Mick.

Edited by mhossack
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1 hour ago, mhossack said:

Thank you Waldi.

I have a topic open which you have helped me with, (Clutch problem).

I have yet to solve my problem, but getting there, which I will update on my own topic.

As ntc has advised me in the past, it is easy to think I have more than one topic asking the same questions.

What I have done as here, when I find someone with a similar problem I ask a question, and then there topic takes on a life of its own. 

Sorry for my mistake, because my car is 4 miles away from my house I got confused, the dimension of 17.780mm is the bore size of my new Girling clutch master cylinder .70 64676310, and my new clutch slave cylinder is a AP Lockheed clutch slave cylinder 99364C Q-310 which could have a bore size of 1 inch 25.349mm, yet to be confirmed.

I do not think they are compatible, to short a throw at the clutch lever, only about an 8mm movement, not enough for the clutch to operate. 

With a friend who understands Triumphs and hydraulics we are doing are homework to see where my problem is with my new components.

Mick.

8mm movement is not enough. You need something like 16mm.

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  • 1 year later...

16 mm as stated above is mimimum, so 3/4” which is 18-19 mm is good.

The slave cylinders can be installed with the bleeder in the bottom, it will not purge all air out then.

I had my SC connected to the master, filled the system with the SC hanging loose under the car and the piston fully pressed in the body, this will minimise the volume that can contain air in the SC ; then I carefully purged the air out by carefully pressing the pedel like you would bleed the brakes. Be careful not to pop the piston out, so it is best done by 2 man (or one man and one woman, guess where she was:D). One completed, I closed the nipple, and re-installed the SC.

Oh yes, all this is forum-wisdom, it worked for me.

Best regards,
Waldi

Edited by Waldi
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