Trial fitting the body tub

[qkingston]

So having blasted the tub, completed the left to right hand drive modifications and primed in Bonda; I'm ready to put the body back on the chassis prior to replacing the LHS floor panel. What's the best way of keeping the various pads/packing pieces in place on the chassis whilst lifting the tub in place, bearing in mind this won't be the only time I do this, there seems to plenty of scope for them to get moved around/knocked off during the evolution. The rolling chassis is complete and built back up....and yes before someone says it, I will be putting the doors back on to check gaps

Many thanks

David

[Motorsport Mickey]

I've been thinking of this also, couple of strips of masking tape around chassis and over the packing to prevent then being knocked off ? 

Mick Richards

[Geko]

I glued them with carpet spray glue and painted them in red

[stuart]

Do what the factory did which was glue them on, Before you do though do the proper alignment check by having the chassis on stands level front to back and side to side and then drop the body on with the nominal set of packers and then get the body level as well. Only then when you now exactly how many you need in all then finally glue them down. A good glue is the Dunlop AF176 available from Woolies trim, your going to need it anyway to fit your trim with.

Stuart.

[qkingston]

thanks Stuart, it's the phrase:

'Only then when you now exactly how many you need in all then finally glue them down'

which I find challenging; how do you stop them moving whilst doing the test fits before you get to this point?

[Motorsport Mickey]

30 minutes ago, qkingston said:

thanks Stuart, it's the phrase:

'Only then when you now exactly how many you need in all then finally glue them down'

which I find challenging; how do you stop them moving whilst doing the test fits before you get to this point?

I refer to my point about masking tape, you can easily add spacers on top or with a bit more trouble slice the tape to remove a packer, then removing the masking tape you can lift the body up a couple of inches and apply glue to the sandwich of established packing pieces and top of the chassis for it's final established position.

Mick Richards

[qkingston]

ok thanks Mick, I'll give that a try

[John L]

David

Could you make up some guide bolts, take the heads off, and put a screw driver slot in the top, it would also help you getting the body down in the right place perhaps, would also hold your washers in place, not sure how you are doing the lifting, with a crane or by muscle?

John

[stuart]

4 hours ago, John L said:

David

Could you make up some guide bolts, take the heads off, and put a screw driver slot in the top, it would also help you getting the body down in the right place perhaps, would also hold your washers in place, not sure how you are doing the lifting, with a crane or by muscle?

John

They are easily lifted with a trolley jack. TBH the packers dont move around that much and a screwdriver down through the holes easily re-aligns them while your adding or subtracting. Dont forget the front main floor pads only go one way.

Stuart.

Edited April 9, 2020 by stuart

[qkingston]

Thanks Stuart, a supplementary if I may? Where the H frame bolts into the chassis, is there anything between the floor and the chassis (rubber pad?), I can't see anything in the various manuals/catalogues? Also the body fittings kits provide 4 rubber pads (2 x square and triangle) for each side, do these replace the rubber/canvas sandwich on the originals, it seems a little thinner?

Rgds David

[stuart]

15 hours ago, qkingston said:

Thanks Stuart, a supplementary if I may? Where the H frame bolts into the chassis, is there anything between the floor and the chassis (rubber pad?), I can't see anything in the various manuals/catalogues? Also the body fittings kits provide 4 rubber pads (2 x square and triangle) for each side, do these replace the rubber/canvas sandwich on the originals, it seems a little thinner?

Rgds David

I use the very thin circular rubber pads for the bolts for the "H" frame with one side trimmed to suit the chassis opening, or if you dont have enough then use a bit of the rubber strip you have for the main rails. The square and triangular rubber  pads do indeed replace the main pads that were originally rubber and canvas, The TR Shop kits usually provide enough to suit, dont forget also you may need the steel shims as well. My nominal start is one rubber one steel one rubber on all four mounts and then work from there up or down.

Stuart.

[John h]

 Hi everyone Stuart when you say levelling the chassis on axle stands is that for the IRS fours as well  I thought we were supposed to load the chassis with engine and gearbox and and support it all on the hubs so that it helps with the flexing of the chassis  i’m at the stage where I’m replacing seals  inner and outer and bulkhead repairs at the moment I’ve got the car sat on the wheels on four Floor ramps and about to put engine and gearbox back in temporarily so that the repairs on the bodywork can be done should I leave on the ramps or put it onto Axle stands kind regards John

[stuart]

If your chassis is going to move with that weight in it then theres something wrong with it. I always use the levelling on stands method then your not dealing with any imperfections in suspension height, floor slope or whatever. Put the stands under the chassis at the same point that the axles are.

Stuart.

[John h]

  Okay Stuart thanks for your prompt reply will definitely be easier with the wheels out the way to get onto the sills end caps

[stuart]

This is the way.

Stuart.

[John h]

T Talking about levelling chassis i used  four of these scaffold legs put a tube across the chassis to sit on a tube over the top of the chassis to hold it still and was able to level in using the adjustment of the threads Also use the laser level to set up the datem if  these  are of any use to someone else let me know now I’ll stick  them to one side for you I also fix them to the garage floor kind regards John 

Edited August 31, 2020 by John h
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[qkingston]

So thanks for the advice, that worked well, now to tack weld the floor in place, all lines up very well....and level

[John h]

That looks really good if I can get mine to a standard close to that I’ll be happy.

your missing a couple of pennies in the wing mirror holes like mine 

 

 

Edited August 31, 2020 by John h
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[stuart]

1 hour ago, John h said:

That looks really good if I can get mine to a standard close to that I’ll be happy.

your missing a couple of pennies in the wing mirror holes like mine 

The right hand one on the deck would be for an aerial if its a US import as thats standard position over there.

Stuart.