nylen Posted March 31, 2020 Report Share Posted March 31, 2020 Hi, A member in our club, Triumph TR Club Sweden, asked me if I could help him find someone who has a drawing to make a chassi jig for att TR6. No one has that in Sweden so he like to do one. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Pope Posted April 2, 2020 Report Share Posted April 2, 2020 In short I made my own. In fact I made a sub-chassis that fitted to a rotissari at either end and also braced the usual door A to B posts as well as across from B to B. The pictures show what I did but it is a ladder frame with custom support brackets to hold the body tub on to it. Not shown in these photos was that first I made a substantial two beam support that was to lift the body up off the TR6 chassis withoit flexing. Using an engine hoist I separated the body and rested it on axle stands. I then constructed the ladder frame underneath and then with both body level and sub-chassis level constructed the supports. Bolted body to sub-chassis then made rotissari ends. What turned out has been great and I suggest a good enough jig for bodywork repairs. I can remove any bracket to get to any part to weld, etc. I have loads of photos of this process if anyone is interested. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Pope Posted April 2, 2020 Report Share Posted April 2, 2020 Should perhaps have added that the whole frame was made so it can come apart (so I can sell it later!). I can transport the TR6 on the sub-chassis on a trailer and the rotissari ends will go in a boot of a car so the bodyshop, etc., can use my rotissari ends. Cost me £200 in metal and I welded the rest myself. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
astontr6 Posted April 2, 2020 Report Share Posted April 2, 2020 23 minutes ago, Richard Pope said: Should perhaps have added that the whole frame was made so it can come apart (so I can sell it later!). I can transport the TR6 on the sub-chassis on a trailer and the rotissari ends will go in a boot of a car so the bodyshop, etc., can use my rotissari ends. Cost me £200 in metal and I welded the rest myself. That to me, looks to be an outstanding job done! Did you do any dimensional drawings i.e. blue prints of your set up? Bruce Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Pope Posted April 2, 2020 Report Share Posted April 2, 2020 5 hours ago, astontr6 said: That to me, looks to be an outstanding job done! Did you do any dimensional drawings i.e. blue prints of your set up? Bruce Thanks. Used a tape measure on the job to cut and weld the metal. I did sketch out the rotissari ends but final design changed a little on the go. For the triangular rotissari ends, I made up a temporary pivot point out of scrap wood in an effort to adjust for center of gravity. However, as it happened the first point turned out to be the correct one within a 'nats'. Guess I was lucky on that. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PodOne Posted April 2, 2020 Report Share Posted April 2, 2020 On 3/31/2020 at 7:44 PM, nylen said: Hi, A member in our club, Triumph TR Club Sweden, asked me if I could help him find someone who has a drawing to make a chassi jig for att TR6. No one has that in Sweden so he like to do one. Do you mean a jig just to bolt the chassis to ensure its straight and effect repairs or as above then leave the tub bolted to the chassis and bolt the chassis/tub to a rotisserie using the bumper irons and fix the tub, just brace the door gaps. Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Pope Posted April 3, 2020 Report Share Posted April 3, 2020 I have to say I wondered if my jig was good enough to act as a body jig. Assuming that my body is straight in the first place and my original chassis is straight, my jig would seem to lock the body to the original chassis simply because each support locks each mounting point to the same location. This would not be true if when removing the body from the original chassis the body twisted or flexed whilst being lifted. I made sure the lifting mechanism was substantial and extended from bulkhead to rear boot tub so I doubt it did move - perhapps mm? I left wings and doors on whilst separating and the door gaps did not change. Assuming the above, I suggest I can now remove a panel such as an inner rear wing and replace without distortion as the surrounding panels are held true to their original location. That's my plan anyway so will see in due course. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ed_h Posted April 3, 2020 Report Share Posted April 3, 2020 Mine was similar, Richard, but only used eight support points front to back. Ed Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Pope Posted April 4, 2020 Report Share Posted April 4, 2020 Hi Ed, I should perhaps of added a comment that I originally based my design on yours since you kindly posted your above photo aboit a year ago for me. As you can see I went down a similar route but could not get scrap metal so designed the 60 x 30 metal box sections for main rails and rotisserie then used wood for cross bars and other bits. Angle irn for each tailored support strut. Having the whole body at chest height makes it all so much easier. Sorry and thanks again. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ed_h Posted April 4, 2020 Report Share Posted April 4, 2020 No worries, Richard. I remember the discussion now. Agreed, I also think the effort to build a proper rotisserie is well worth it. Ed Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Pope Posted April 6, 2020 Report Share Posted April 6, 2020 On 3/31/2020 at 7:44 PM, nylen said: Hi, A member in our club, Triumph TR Club Sweden, asked me if I could help him find someone who has a drawing to make a chassi jig for att TR6. No one has that in Sweden so he like to do one. Out of curiosity has this helped you? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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