mark_smugglers Posted March 29, 2020 Report Share Posted March 29, 2020 Hi Has anyone got any photos of doors with just paint at top and no door caps? I thought I’d seen a thread with some examples but can’t find it. Starting to think about interiors... Thanks mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted March 29, 2020 Report Share Posted March 29, 2020 Hi Mark, the TR4 has the same doors with bare top - just painted. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Oddball Posted March 29, 2020 Report Share Posted March 29, 2020 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cvtrian Posted March 29, 2020 Report Share Posted March 29, 2020 (edited) here's another, earlier door pulls Edited March 29, 2020 by cvtrian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted March 29, 2020 Report Share Posted March 29, 2020 Here is the post 1974 item which is a shaped black vinyl covering, not the padded door pull as used before that date. Note the door pull is set in the door centre. 824901 and 824911 are the part numbers. Black only are supplied. https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr5-6/interior/cockpit-fittings/interior-trim-kits-tr6-from-c-cr5001-cf12501-1972-76.html As detailed above the chrome door pull from TR4 can be used. The door inner frame is pierced to accept a retainer nut for the TR4 pull - Roger will be along to detail how to do this.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stevenphillips Posted March 29, 2020 Report Share Posted March 29, 2020 Hi Mark Yes I took mine off and fitted the TR5 handles as my good lady found the originals a faff. As I was upgrading the interior to leather I used some off-cuts to finish the top door which I think finish it nice. Matter of choice really but my good lady prefers this setup. Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mark_smugglers Posted March 29, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2020 Perfect. Thanks all. Much appreciated Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy Moltu Posted April 1, 2020 Report Share Posted April 1, 2020 On 3/29/2020 at 11:26 AM, cvtrian said: here's another, earlier door pulls Do the 6 door frames have the captive nuts for the earlier handles or did you use self tappers or rivnuts? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jpmf Posted April 1, 2020 Report Share Posted April 1, 2020 8 minutes ago, Andy Moltu said: Do the 6 door frames have the captive nuts for the earlier handles or did you use self tappers or rivnuts? Apparently the doors have recesses for spire nuts to be inserted into in the appropriate place and the door cards I think have also got holes in them to correspond. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stevenphillips Posted April 1, 2020 Report Share Posted April 1, 2020 Hi Andy My doors had the holes already in the steel for the plastic inserts that I ordered online, I think from the TR5 listing. When I replaced the cards I just put these inserts in and fixed the handles through the door card onto the plastic inserts. This solution (although not liked by the purist) is brilliant especially for my wife as she kept breaked her fingernails on the original door caps, hmmmm. Regards Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cvtrian Posted April 2, 2020 Report Share Posted April 2, 2020 11 hours ago, Andy Moltu said: Do the 6 door frames have the captive nuts for the earlier handles or did you use self tappers or rivnuts? As the Steve and jpmf have said, the cut outs are already there in the door frame, just needs the spire nuts FS27584 (MOSS catalogue) and 510799 screws, and the handles of course 650306. Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy Moltu Posted April 2, 2020 Report Share Posted April 2, 2020 Thanks for that - the spire nuts are a[[arently NCA at Moss - however Rimmers have some listed under that number although for a different application so I shall await their arrival with cautious optimism! Picked up the handles on eBay a while back but not got round to fitting. However she managed to pull the old door capping off at the weekend and I've deemed it beyond gluing back on. Have got a pair of repro door cappings which look OK but going to fit the handles as seems a better option. Undecided whether to use contact glue or or gorilla glue for putting the repro ones on. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mark_smugglers Posted April 2, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2020 9 hours ago, Andy Moltu said: Thanks for that - the spire nuts are a[[arently NCA at Moss - however Rimmers have some listed under that number although for a different application so I shall await their arrival with cautious optimism! Picked up the handles on eBay a while back but not got round to fitting. However she managed to pull the old door capping off at the weekend and I've deemed it beyond gluing back on. Have got a pair of repro door cappings which look OK but going to fit the handles as seems a better option. Undecided whether to use contact glue or or gorilla glue for putting the repro ones on. On this. Although I’d bought the spire nuts from TR Shop, in the end, given I would have needed to file out the holes, I used Rivnuts- copied from Ed. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave McDonald Posted April 5, 2020 Report Share Posted April 5, 2020 On 4/2/2020 at 10:21 AM, Andy Moltu said: Thanks for that - the spire nuts are a[[arently NCA at Moss - however Rimmers have some listed under that number although for a different application so I shall await their arrival with cautious optimism! Andy, I note the Rimmers cage nuts have a slightly different part No. When you get them will you report on their suitability please? I think they should be 3/16" unf or a BA thread. Do the cages fit into the square holes in the door without any enlarging? I've also intended to fit the TR4/4A handles 650306 to my TR5 currently under restoration. I tried some plastic inserts that I think I got at a Triumph Spares day 2 or 3 years ago. They fitted the existing holes in the doors well and accepted a BA screw, can't remember size. However, though I was able to fit the handle I found that when I tightened the screws up the hinged handle didn't move easily. It swung up when lifted to pull the door, but didn't drop down under its' own weight. When I loosened the screws it did drop down. It was as if the holes in the door were slightly too close together and pulling the ends in towards each other when the screws were tightened. This reminded me of an old thread, that I can't find now, but it mentioned exactly the scenario that I found. I seem to remember that Tom Freemont in the USA mentioned that situation. He came up with a solution involving welding 2 nuts onto a thin strip of metal which was then pop rivetted behind the door. The nut spacings were such that they effectively positioned just to the edges of the existing holes in the doors, rather than centrally. Alternatively, we could just file the square holes slightly wider sideways to correct the misalignment. I did find some metric cage nuts, can't remember if M4 or M5, which took a suitable sized screw to fit the holes in the handles but the cages were significantly larger than the square holes in the door so again there would be a need to file the holes bigger. I'll be interested in anyone else's solution before I need to enlarge the holes in my doors. Dave McD Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy Moltu Posted April 5, 2020 Report Share Posted April 5, 2020 Will update you when they arrive. If they don’t fit I will try some metric options. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TRTOM2498PI Posted April 5, 2020 Report Share Posted April 5, 2020 3 hours ago, Dave McDonald said: Andy, I note the Rimmers cage nuts have a slightly different part No. When you get them will you report on their suitability please? I think they should be 3/16" unf or a BA thread. Do the cages fit into the square holes in the door without any enlarging? I've also intended to fit the TR4/4A handles 650306 to my TR5 currently under restoration. I tried some plastic inserts that I think I got at a Triumph Spares day 2 or 3 years ago. They fitted the existing holes in the doors well and accepted a BA screw, can't remember size. However, though I was able to fit the handle I found that when I tightened the screws up the hinged handle didn't move easily. It swung up when lifted to pull the door, but didn't drop down under its' own weight. When I loosened the screws it did drop down. It was as if the holes in the door were slightly too close together and pulling the ends in towards each other when the screws were tightened. This reminded me of an old thread, that I can't find now, but it mentioned exactly the scenario that I found. I seem to remember that Tom Freemont in the USA mentioned that situation. He came up with a solution involving welding 2 nuts onto a thin strip of metal which was then pop rivetted behind the door. The nut spacings were such that they effectively positioned just to the edges of the existing holes in the doors, rather than centrally. Alternatively, we could just file the square holes slightly wider sideways to correct the misalignment. I did find some metric cage nuts, can't remember if M4 or M5, which took a suitable sized screw to fit the holes in the handles but the cages were significantly larger than the square holes in the door so again there would be a need to file the holes bigger. I'll be interested in anyone else's solution before I need to enlarge the holes in my doors. Dave McD Hi Dave, What is wrong with the original set-up for a TR5/early CP TR6 ? Cheers. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave McDonald Posted April 5, 2020 Report Share Posted April 5, 2020 Tom, The vinyl/foam filled door cappings with the little finger pull section are the only means of pulling the door closed on the TR5 - and they pull off!! Then have to rely on pulling door shut using top of window glass then. I will fit the non standard TR4/4A chrome door handles and no cappings. On 3/29/2020 at 1:06 PM, stevenphillips said: Hi Mark Yes I took mine off and fitted the TR5 handles as my good lady found the originals a faff. As I was upgrading the interior to leather I used some off-cuts to finish the top door which I think finish it nice. Matter of choice really but my good lady prefers this setup. Steve Steven, Is that just a strip of leather bonded onto your door top without the foam filling? It like that idea together with the chrome handle. Dave McD Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stevenphillips Posted April 5, 2020 Report Share Posted April 5, 2020 Hi Dave Yes when I received the leather interior from John Skinner that I replace about 10 years ago he was kind enough to put some off cuts in with the interior. I had already decided to remove the door caps as they were frankly inadequate to shout the door well and we often had to lower the window to shut the door correctly. I cannot recommend John Skinner enough though I have not needed to use his services for years now. I used a impact adhesive and spent a considerable amount of time to form the leather on the door top. I'm really pleased with the result and my wife totally prefers the door handles. As I like to go out with her in company I can forsake the non originality. I did not use any foam as the leather is good quality and has a little softness to it. If you chose to do the caps in a vinyl you may want to use a bit of foam to improve the feel. I must say that I have not had any problems with my handles not dropping and there were square cut outs in my doors which accepted the plastic inserts to retain the screws. Hope that is helpful but if you need any more pics etc let me know. Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jpmf Posted April 5, 2020 Report Share Posted April 5, 2020 5 hours ago, Dave McDonald said: Andy, I note the Rimmers cage nuts have a slightly different part No. When you get them will you report on their suitability please? I think they should be 3/16" unf or a BA thread. Do the cages fit into the square holes in the door without any enlarging? Dave McD Revington have a plastic alternative to the cage nut suitable for the door handle, and screws to suit. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TRTOM2498PI Posted April 18, 2020 Report Share Posted April 18, 2020 Hi Dave, I have the original set-up on my CP 6. If you clean the top of the door area down meticulously, and use Tiger seal, and then use 4 or 5 cable ties to hold into position, and leave over night to set, you will never have any issues with them falling off again ! To remove them now would mean cutting them off the top of the door, metal work included. The cars that have them falling off, or feeling flimsy, have either used poor adhesive, or lack of preparation to allow them to adhere properly. Mine were installed in April 2013, and still remain firm with no flexibility what so ever, and my car has seen a fair amount of action. Cheers. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Yarm 783 Posted May 9, 2020 Report Share Posted May 9, 2020 Here you go... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
astontr6 Posted May 9, 2020 Report Share Posted May 9, 2020 On 3/29/2020 at 10:41 AM, Cameron said: My TR is a 73 model so when I had the bottom of the doors repaired because of rust blisters I changed the door cards which use Spitfire parts to the 74 onwards type. The metal furniture was obtained from the Spitfire grave yard. If I remember some parts are NCA. Bruce. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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