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Repro Diff Bridge


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Anyone had any experience of the repro diff bridges?

Just come to fit one and it seems to me that the mounting plates for the dampers are on the wrong side.

The brige mounts to the chassis are angled and it seems to me that the one I've got sits correctly if mounted 180 degrees out! I wonder if it's a rogue one that someone has carelessly welded the plate tot eh wrong side. Anyone else experienced the same issue.

The problem is that they appear to be on back order with an expected date of May! (Unless I want to go with a Revington one at twice the price!

This leaves me with two options -(other than waiting) of cutting/grinding the edge to get the correct angle which would effectively lower the rear diff mount by 10mm.  Or weld in a bit to get the correct angle!

 

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Andy  - I have both a NOS repro one and a genuine OE Stanpart one which are both similar but not identical because of their different basis of manufacture. I don't know the origin of the repro one but I'm fairly sure from the remnants of the sticker on it before I had it blasted and painted, it was a Moss one.

Anyway, hopefully the attached photos will help you work out if your one has been manufactured the wrong way round. The chassis rails start rising up towards the rear where the rear bridge sits on them and the bridge ends up pretty much vertical - I have tried to show this in the photos but essentially on a flat surface, with the lever arm mounting face correctly pointing forwards,  the bracket leans backwards towards the rear. Not easy to explain but I hope you get the drift.

Before anyone asks, the Stanpart one is not for sale but I could be persuaded to part company with the repro one. if you are interested

cheers Rich499910103_IMG_3084-Resized.thumb.jpg.28f032bc8c602a2f6863dfd2b8b5bbc8.jpg

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Andy I can’t find the thread, but that was a Rimmers spring bridge that was effectively back to front.
Does everybody else find searching a bit of a pain? I know about 5e Google route but even that doesn’t always help.

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Andy,there has been huge problems with Rimmers Diff Bridges it’s not only the wrong design but also the quality/thickness of metal used when loaded up with the Springs and Wishbones the Metal Cup on top that holds/locates the Spring cannot handle the Spring Pressure and the Metal Cracks/splits and I’ve Pics to prove this if needed.

CTM is the only one I can safely recommend.

Andy if you need Pics PM me your Email as it’s the only way I can send them,Cheers.

 

Edited by TR NIALL
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1 hour ago, TR NIALL said:

Andy,there has been huge problems with Rimmers Diff Bridges it’s not only the wrong design but also the quality/thickness of metal used when loaded up with the Springs and Wishbones the Metal Cup on top that holds/locates the Spring cannot handle the Spring Pressure and the Metal Cracks/splits and I’ve Pics to prove this if needed.

This is interesting for me. I bought a 4a last year and have been going through the mechanics. I noticed on the drivers side the rear spring cup had twisted and was touching the bottom lip of the inner wing. It does not appear to have cracked or broken. On the road it does not make any unuasual bangs or creaks. But I assume it will need the body off to repair it.

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41 minutes ago, Phil Read said:

This is interesting for me. I bought a 4a last year and have been going through the mechanics. I noticed on the drivers side the rear spring cup had twisted and was touching the bottom lip of the inner wing. It does not appear to have cracked or broken. On the road it does not make any unuasual bangs or creaks. But I assume it will need the body off to repair it.

I would take the Body off and address all the Problems at the one time,there are several areas on that Bridge that need additional strengthening.

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It is the rear diff bridge and having had a better look today it wasn’t as far out as my initial impression. Minor fettling with the grinder and seems to sit right.  No need to take the body off for the rear bridge. (Technically you can replace the front bridge without lifting the body off either but it does take a deal of cutting and welding. However you can fix broken diff pins by cutting an access hatch in the bodywork above.)

As for the thickness of the Rimmer’s one, it seems to be made of box section of a heavier grade than the original which was a pretty flimsy u shaped pressing. A bodge by the previous owner using threaded rod in place of a diff pin had totally todgered the bridge to the point that the options were limited. 

 

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