roy53 Posted March 27, 2020 Report Share Posted March 27, 2020 Has anyone tried the 2 paints mentioned in the TR3 section. Halfords truckbed liner paint Raptor Both said to give a good finish and easier to use with no need to heat. Roy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tony_C Posted March 27, 2020 Report Share Posted March 27, 2020 Hi Roy, No, but for what it is worth, way back in the day when used to do everything on a what’s available budget basis (some things actually don’t change that much) I did my 3A stipple effect with ‘Hamerite’... still looks fine.... albeit not entered in concours. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graham Posted March 27, 2020 Report Share Posted March 27, 2020 Roy my two penneth for what its worth. Personally I would use the VHT crackle Finnish for anything that you want a 'better' finish on. I'm sure 'Tush' used raptor on the floor pan of his TR250 check out his page on You tube finish was good but if memory serves not as even as you would get with a crackle Finnish so depends on what you want to paint I would say . Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Deggers Posted March 27, 2020 Report Share Posted March 27, 2020 VHT Wrinkle Plus can apparently be cured with or without heat. Cheers, Deggers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mike ellis Posted March 27, 2020 Report Share Posted March 27, 2020 +1 for VHT, worked well on my centre dash panel. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted March 27, 2020 Report Share Posted March 27, 2020 (edited) I used VHT and a hot air gun on my 3A and got perfect results. Tom. Edited April 15, 2020 by Fireman049 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
roy53 Posted March 27, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2020 i've tried VHT several times with no success . but didn't use heat so i guess that was my issue. Not up to Fuzz standard it would seem thanks so far to all , and it would be good to hear from others who may have tried the other products. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted March 27, 2020 Report Share Posted March 27, 2020 Roy I used the truck bed liner paint but on the roll bar plates that sit in the rear wheel arches. the pics aren’t brilliant as only remembered to take one when all fitted with bolts and liberal amounts of sealant to stop water and sh1t getting in between but it looks like a fine even textured finish. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim T Posted March 27, 2020 Report Share Posted March 27, 2020 The underside of my 5 was done in raptor which is basically a tintable stone chip as far as I am aware. Good stuff though. I have recently used the VHT Wrinkle plus and got a result although the wrinkles were quite course. Watched Fuzz's video thinking that this will show me where I went wrong. I followed the instructions on the can. Thoroughly cleaned the plenum, sprayed 3 relatively heavy coats at 5 minute intervals, horizontally, vertically and diagonally. Finally applied heat via a heat gun into the plenum. Fuzz applied one coat and said ' job done'!! Alan Turner did my wiper motor and got a fantastic result. Much trial and error required I think. Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dic Doretti Posted March 27, 2020 Report Share Posted March 27, 2020 Try an MG specialist, MGB dashboards have a crackle finish and no heat required. Cheers Richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim T Posted March 27, 2020 Report Share Posted March 27, 2020 When I applied the heat it did reduce the coarseness of the wrinkle/crackle. Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted March 28, 2020 Report Share Posted March 28, 2020 I've done hundreds of items with VHT black-wrinkle. Actually this name does not uniquely define the product. To be clear the one I uses comes from USAutomotive. Possibly Frost also, but they would charge more. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3X-VHT-BLACK-WRINKLE-FINISH-SPRAY-PAINT-SP201/281518704303?hash=item418bd286af:g:YnMAAOSwQItUEvS6 Anyway the crucial thing is nothing to do with heat. Heat makes it set properly and slightly reduces "wrinkliness". But not by much. What is important is the number of coats, the thickness of the coats and the evenness of the coats. I do four coats, not thin and not thick, just enough. Thicker coats will make more wrinkleness. Two other factors are the time between coats and the temperature of the air. My rule is to spray the next coat when my finger tip just stops sticking to the last one. I'm spraying four vertical surfaces at once in the outdoors. Don't even think about it in cold or windy weather. But a hot summer day isn't ideal either. About one time in ten I get it too thick and get a run. Then you have to cook it and rub down flat and two-coats will do it. There is a fair amount of skill required. Be easy on a horizontal surface. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nigel Triumph Posted March 28, 2020 Report Share Posted March 28, 2020 38 minutes ago, AlanT said: I've done hundreds of items with VHT black-wrinkle. Actually this name does not uniquely define the product. To be clear the one I uses comes from USAutomotive. Possibly Frost also, but they would charge more. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3X-VHT-BLACK-WRINKLE-FINISH-SPRAY-PAINT-SP201/281518704303?hash=item418bd286af:g:YnMAAOSwQItUEvS6 Anyway the crucial thing is nothing to do with heat. Heat makes it set properly and slightly reduces "wrinkliness". But not by much. What is important is the number of coats, the thickness of the coats and the evenness of the coats. I do four coats, not thin and not thick, just enough. Thicker coats will make more wrinkleness. Two other factors are the time between coats and the temperature of the air. My rule is to spray the next coat when my finger tip just stops sticking to the last one. I'm spraying four vertical surfaces at once in the outdoors. Don't even think about it in cold or windy weather. But a hot summer day isn't ideal either. About one time in ten I get it too thick and get a run. Then you have to cook it and rub down flat and two-coats will do it. There is a fair amount of skill required. Be easy on a horizontal surface. I've used the same paint as Alan on the H-frame of my Spitfire. It works well but does really need stoving, I put in the oven at about 80C for an hour. I tried this paint because it's what the MGB boys recommend for their crackle black dashboards. Nigel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted March 28, 2020 Report Share Posted March 28, 2020 100 degC for 45 min is enough. The difference is that if I don't cook it and just leave to dry for a few weeks, the surface will be marked if I wrap the part in a plastic bag. If I cook it you could hit it with a hammer and not much will happen. A warning is that after cooking and before cooling the surface is quite soft. I ruined a batch because they slid into the oven as I was taking them out. Ideally you would let the oven cool before taking them out. You could do a big item with a heat gun and a cardboard box. Do it outside, some risk of fire if you do this. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted March 28, 2020 Report Share Posted March 28, 2020 (edited) Another good supplier of aerosol paint is Partsorama. Currently out of stock on black-wrinkle. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VHT-SP204-RED-WRINKLE-FINISH-SPRAY-PAINT/381650928961?epid=1758415621&hash=item58dc2b0541:g:ZCcAAOSwna1Z0wF2 Edited March 28, 2020 by AlanT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted March 28, 2020 Report Share Posted March 28, 2020 I cured at 100 C with an hot air gun and an IR pointer to control heat. Indeed, even thickness and not to thin, anywhere, are key aspects. Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DanTR6 Posted March 28, 2020 Report Share Posted March 28, 2020 How impact and chip resistant is the VHT stuff once cured? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nigel Triumph Posted March 28, 2020 Report Share Posted March 28, 2020 Seems very tough but I only applied it a month ago. Others may have more experience. I can't imagine the MG fraternity would use it on dashboards if it doesn't last. Nigel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted March 29, 2020 Report Share Posted March 29, 2020 Of all the different paint finishes I work with the black-wrinkle is the most chip resistant. I'm often removing paint from wiper-motor bodies that are 40-60 years old. There is always rust under the hammer-finish paint that replaced the black-wrinkle sometime in the 70's. When I bolt the pole-pieces into place the black-wrinkle stays in place around the bolt-heads. At one time I only used black-wrinkle because of this. Eventually I found a technique to permit bolting up on hammer-finish. But even now sometimes this will explode away when I do this. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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