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Has anyone tried the 2 paints mentioned in the TR3 section.

Halfords truckbed liner paint

Raptor

Both said to give a good finish and easier to use with no need to heat.

Roy

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Hi Roy,

No, but for what it is worth, way back in the day when used to do everything on a what’s available budget basis (some things actually don’t change that much) I did my 3A stipple effect with ‘Hamerite’... still looks fine.... albeit not entered in concours. 

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Roy my two penneth for what its worth.

Personally I would use the VHT crackle Finnish for anything that you want a 'better' finish on. I'm sure 'Tush' used raptor on the floor pan of his TR250  check out his page on You tube finish was good but if memory serves not as even as you would get with a crackle Finnish so depends on what you want to paint I would say .

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i've tried VHT several times with no success . but didn't use heat so i guess that was my issue.

Not up to Fuzz standard it would seem :(

thanks so far to all , and it would be good to hear from others who may have tried the other products.

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Roy I used the truck bed liner paint but on the roll bar plates that sit in the rear wheel arches. 
 

the pics aren’t brilliant as only remembered to take one when all fitted with bolts and liberal amounts of sealant to stop water and sh1t getting in between 

but it looks like a fine even textured finish. 

4AFCAF2E-4561-4AE3-BDEC-9ED3DDE8D3C2.jpeg

6A995024-7FF8-4825-AA34-3925BDB28115.jpeg

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The underside of my 5 was done in raptor which is basically a tintable stone chip as far as I am aware. Good stuff though.

I have recently used the VHT Wrinkle plus and got a result although the wrinkles were quite course.

Watched Fuzz's video thinking that this will show me where I went wrong. I followed the instructions on the can. Thoroughly cleaned the plenum, sprayed 3 relatively heavy coats at 5 minute intervals, horizontally, vertically and diagonally. Finally applied heat via a heat gun into the plenum.

Fuzz applied one coat and said ' job done'!!

Alan Turner did my wiper motor and got a fantastic result.

Much trial and error required I think.

Tim

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When I applied the heat it did reduce the coarseness of the wrinkle/crackle.

Tim

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I've done hundreds of items with VHT black-wrinkle.  Actually this name does not uniquely define the product.  To be clear the one I uses comes from USAutomotive.  Possibly Frost also, but they would charge more.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3X-VHT-BLACK-WRINKLE-FINISH-SPRAY-PAINT-SP201/281518704303?hash=item418bd286af:g:YnMAAOSwQItUEvS6

Anyway the crucial thing is nothing to do with heat.  Heat makes it set properly and slightly reduces "wrinkliness".  But not by much.

What is important is the number of coats, the thickness of the coats and the evenness of the coats. I do four coats, not thin and not thick, just enough. Thicker coats will make more wrinkleness.

Two other factors are the time between coats and the temperature of the air.  My rule is to spray the next coat when my finger tip just stops sticking to the last one.

I'm spraying four vertical surfaces at once in the outdoors.  Don't even think about it in cold or windy weather.  But a hot summer day isn't ideal either.

About one time in ten I get it too thick and get a run.  Then you have to cook it and rub down flat and two-coats will do it.

There is a fair amount of skill required.  Be easy on a horizontal surface.

 

 

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38 minutes ago, AlanT said:

I've done hundreds of items with VHT black-wrinkle.  Actually this name does not uniquely define the product.  To be clear the one I uses comes from USAutomotive.  Possibly Frost also, but they would charge more.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3X-VHT-BLACK-WRINKLE-FINISH-SPRAY-PAINT-SP201/281518704303?hash=item418bd286af:g:YnMAAOSwQItUEvS6

Anyway the crucial thing is nothing to do with heat.  Heat makes it set properly and slightly reduces "wrinkliness".  But not by much.

What is important is the number of coats, the thickness of the coats and the evenness of the coats. I do four coats, not thin and not thick, just enough. Thicker coats will make more wrinkleness.

Two other factors are the time between coats and the temperature of the air.  My rule is to spray the next coat when my finger tip just stops sticking to the last one.

I'm spraying four vertical surfaces at once in the outdoors.  Don't even think about it in cold or windy weather.  But a hot summer day isn't ideal either.

About one time in ten I get it too thick and get a run.  Then you have to cook it and rub down flat and two-coats will do it.

There is a fair amount of skill required.  Be easy on a horizontal surface.

 

 

I've used the same paint as Alan on the H-frame of my Spitfire. It works well but does really need stoving, I put in the oven at about 80C for an hour. I tried this paint because it's what the MGB boys recommend for their crackle black dashboards.

Nigel

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100 degC for 45 min is enough.

The difference is that if I don't cook it and just leave to dry for a few weeks, the surface will be marked if I wrap the part in a plastic bag. If I cook it you could hit it with a hammer and not much will happen.

A warning is that after cooking and before cooling the surface is quite soft.  I ruined a batch because they slid into the oven as I was taking them out. Ideally you would let the oven cool before taking them out.

You could do a big item with a heat gun and a cardboard box. Do it outside, some risk of fire if you do this.

 

 

 

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I cured at 100 C with an hot air gun and an IR pointer to control heat. Indeed, even thickness and not to thin, anywhere, are key aspects.
Waldi

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Seems very tough but I only applied it a month ago. Others may have more experience.

I can't imagine the MG fraternity would use it on dashboards if it doesn't last.

Nigel

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Of all the different paint finishes I work with the black-wrinkle is the most chip resistant.

I'm often removing paint from wiper-motor bodies that are 40-60 years old.  There is always rust under the hammer-finish paint that replaced the black-wrinkle sometime in the 70's.

When I bolt the pole-pieces into place the black-wrinkle stays in place around the bolt-heads.  At one time I only used black-wrinkle because of this.  Eventually I found a technique to permit bolting up on hammer-finish.  But even now sometimes this will explode away when I do this.

 

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