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noise from the drive train


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since last year I noticed a noise from the drivetrain. But it is not that of a broken joint. It is more like a bearing running dry without grease. Unfortunately I cannot locate it properly.

But everything else works pretty well. The shifting, the OD, breaking, cornering, etc.

Any idea what it could be or what I could check?

Carsten

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3 minutes ago, Casar66 said:

since last year I noticed a noise from the drivetrain. But it is not that of a broken joint. It is more like a bearing running dry without grease. Unfortunately I cannot locate it properly.

But everything else works pretty well. The shifting, the OD, breaking, cornering, etc.

Any idea what it could be or what I could check?

Carsten

Is it a whining noise?

Bruce

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Only when driving, clutch in, clutch out, all gears, no gear, always the same. the frequency  depends on the speed, not of the engine revs. 

The sound is that if you spin a bearing with no grease In it or like an old worn out release bearing (but louder).

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Yes, I guess so. I lifted the rear wheels (one after the other) and my wife has moved the tires and one side was noisier (but runs smooth). So it seems it the bearing of the hub. What should I do, drive and see or change? 

I have read too much of broken axles.

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5 hours ago, RogerH said:

Just to cheer you up here is the sound of a GWR Manor drive train  

Roger  (here to help in these TRoubled times).

Hi Roger!

Thanks for that, it took me back to my childhood as I lived very near the GWR out of Paddington/

Bruce.

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Carsten, 

if you feel the hub might be the source, I would NOT drive the car before knowing the exact cause.  I have seen broken hubs during track days and the driver was lucky not loosing its wheel. Could have been much worse. 
Jochem

Edited by JochemsTR
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Hi Jochem,

I have changed the hub just 4 or 5 years ago. I t was one of those Bastuck hubs, the feather-key (or how else you call them, wedge, spline, I do not know) was not hardened and the hub had some play. Then we had changed the key and it worked quite allright.

But since two years there is just the noisier operation, no play, no nothing. What I have read so far is, that the broken stub shaft is a result of too much play. But there isn't one.

 

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Hi  - if you disconnect the driveshaft from the diff on the side where it's noisier but runs smooth and the noise disappears, then it points to your diff having an issue.

Just a thought.

Cheers Rich

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I could do this, but I am quote sure that the noise came from the hub not from the diff. However, right now I am not sure what to do. Do not change or start an extensive repair.

i think I will let somebody drive my car and I will place myself in the back with a stetoscope to confirm my guess 

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I'd be interested to see how you  propose to  use the stethoscope on the back drive axle components while your mate drives you around. 

Before I did that I'd listen to the back axle components with the stethoscope while someone rotated the wheel on the noisy side by hand. With the wheel jacked up and the G/B in neutral for starters.

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19 hours ago, Casar66 said:

I did this already and the result was that one hub runs louder. But I need to confirm that this is really the source of the noise what I hear while driving the car. 

 

Repair the noisy hub and don't drive until it is done. If you can hear/feel a wheel bearing when driving it needs fixing. 

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I am wondering if it is possible to grease the hub without dismantle it? That hub is only some years old (from Bastuck). After a very short while it became play. Then we disassembled it with a press ( a violent job).  The result: the key was not hardened and worked into the groove of the axle shaft (see photo). We then used the key of the old hub. But I drove the TR only for around 1000miles average a year and always with the  top down. Two years ago I have to take the TR during rainfall and it was then when I noticed that noise from the drive train but I blamed it on the unfamiliar driving with the top closed. After this years winterbreak and my first roll out with closed top it was clear, that the noise is not normal. But it is stable it do not became worse or different during the last years.

So my (maybe stupid) idea is: to open the hub (the big nut on the axle shaft) and try to put grease into it and see if the running noise becomes better or to drill a hole in the hub housing and insert a grease nipple.

And if both (stupid) ideas do not work I would go for a reconditioned hub assembly from e.g. rimmer. The question then is: will they accept the Bastuck hub for refund. To overhaul the Bastuck hub is a no go. 

If I would use my TR more often I would go for cosworth hubs or goodparts.

Hub-key.jpg

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But what if just the lubrification has gone? There is no play, there is no other typical symptom. Just the bearings runs louder than normal, but not rough or do not sound damaged. Or maybe is is possible than one bearing runs just louder than the other? I do not think, that Bastuck uses the best qualities.

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1 hour ago, Casar66 said:

I am wondering if it is possible to grease the hub without dismantle it? That hub is only some years old (from Bastuck). After a very short while it became play. Then we disassembled it with a press ( a violent job).  The result: the key was not hardened and worked into the groove of the axle shaft (see photo). We then used the key of the old hub. But I drove the TR only for around 1000miles average a year and always with the  top down. Two years ago I have to take the TR during rainfall and it was then when I noticed that noise from the drive train but I blamed it on the unfamiliar driving with the top closed. After this years winterbreak and my first roll out with closed top it was clear, that the noise is not normal. But it is stable it do not became worse or different during the last years.

So my (maybe stupid) idea is: to open the hub (the big nut on the axle shaft) and try to put grease into it and see if the running noise becomes better or to drill a hole in the hub housing and insert a grease nipple.

And if both (stupid) ideas do not work I would go for a reconditioned hub assembly from e.g. rimmer. The question then is: will they accept the Bastuck hub for refund. To overhaul the Bastuck hub is a no go. 

If I would use my TR more often I would go for cosworth hubs or goodparts.

Hub-key.jpg

I think you may have two problems:

1) The tapers are not locking, hence the movement of the woodruff key? Had the woodruff key broken out of the key way? Was the key way sides broken?

2) When you took the hub apart, did you examine the races where the ball bearings run for roughness and break up of the harden surfaces, as this causes noise?

Bruce. 

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Bruce 

to 1:)

-no, the hub was loose (more or less). My last post was wrong, the new hub was very easy to take apart, the old one, from what we took the key was very tough to disassemble. I guess, the spacer has to less tension so it became play. And the key was wrongly not hardened and so the key way was still fine.

 

to 2.)

Honestly, I do no remember. The work was done by a professional garage and I was just watching. They told me, that everything looks surprisingly very fine (because the key were so "soft"). Is it possible that they forgot to grease? Or are the bearings sealed and greased for lifetime?

 

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