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Play in my wheel hub


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When up on a ramp and with the h/brake on, my o/s rear wheel has some movement forward and back. I run wires and initially though perhaps the splines were worn. Swapping wheels, does not move the problem and so I have taken the hub off, but think I have found the problem. 2 of the studs have a small amount of play. How do I sort this? Thanks in advance.

Mike

CBD51BB6-F584-43EA-B744-D140B4F389F7.jpeg

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1 hour ago, Aldpilot said:

When up on a ramp and with the h/brake on, my o/s rear wheel has some movement forward and back. I run wires and initially though perhaps the splines were worn. Swapping wheels, does not move the problem and so I have taken the hub off, but think I have found the problem. 2 of the studs have a small amount of play. How do I sort this? Thanks in advance.

Mike

CBD51BB6-F584-43EA-B744-D140B4F389F7.jpeg

Hi Mike,

when you say forward & back can you describe this better

Loose studs should not give any play when all bolted up tightly.

With the adaptor fitted and torqued down to the correct value (quite tightlbs/ft) is there any play then. Fit a scaffold pole down the bore and waggle.

The adaptor spilines shouldn't give any play other then a very slight rotational take up when moving off if they are badly worn.

Possible areas of concern - the tapered face on the adaptor badly worn and not fitting onto the wheel correctly.

Slack spinner

Long hub studs not allowing the wheel to sit on the adaptor taper face.

 

Roger

Roger

 

 

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Thanks Roger.

I understand all you have said and believe the adapter should pull up tight with the nuts done up properly. Anyone any idea what torque they should be?

I don’t think the studs are too long as same all round and only one wheel has the problem. Could the studs have worn or allow the adapter to move because the holes have worn bigger? The adapter was new within the last year (all 4 replaced for general maintenance). 
The movement is solely front and back (just wheel roll).

I am going to put back on an old adapter (making sure the correct side) and see if that still gives the problem. I will just wait and see if anyone can give me the correct torque setting.

Thanks for your thoughts. As always very helpful.

Mike

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 Mike

If the studs have play you may want to consider replacing them, because once you get them tightened up you may find that they will rotate with the nut when you next come to undo them, then the only way to get the adapter of is by splitting the nut.

As for the for and aft movement did you turn the wheel through 90° and see if the movement is now top to bottom, if not I would suspect the for aft movement is in the swinging arm

George 

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Thanks Roger. I have put it all back together and no play now seen. Until I can go for a drive, I won’t know if it works loose at all. Having had an adapter come loose about 4 years ago, I put a dab of loctite on the nuts when I do them up. At least I now know 65 lb ft is the torque to use.

George, there was no change in the movement wherever the wheel is orientated. 
We cannot see our Dutch TRip proceeding to visit the Dutch National Triumph Day.

Thanks guys

Mike
 

 

3410D0F8-CD53-4DFF-AA08-4F8A6A7F83BF.jpeg

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15 minutes ago, Aldpilot said:

Thanks Roger. I have put it all back together and no play now seen. Until I can go for a drive, I won’t know if it works loose at all. Having had an adapter come loose about 4 years ago, I put a dab of loctite on the nuts when I do them up. At least I now know 65 lb ft is the torque to use.

George, there was no change in the movement wherever the wheel is orientated. 
We cannot see our Dutch TRip proceeding to visit the Dutch National Triumph Day.

Thanks guys

Mike
 

 

3410D0F8-CD53-4DFF-AA08-4F8A6A7F83BF.jpeg

Mike - I had some wheel nuts as per your photo above which came with some new hubs - I used them and then found later they had been fouling the back of the wheel  - I bet if you look at your wheels, you will see the tell tale marks where the corners of the nuts have dug into your wheel - this would almost certainly explain your "movement" - the wheel will be "rocking" on some of the nuts.

Change them for the ones as shown in Peter's post

Cheers Rich 

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The wheel mounting taper looks to be fretted in the mating area suggesting that the wheel hasn’t been properly tightened down. As Peter has pointed out the correct wheel nuts should be tapered on both sides. Take a look at the back of the wheel hub and check that the nuts haven’t been touching the hub. 
 

Edit: Oops Rich beat me to it

Edited by Drewmotty
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Mine do have a tapered fitment,  but only on one side Peter. I cannot show a photo without taking one off, but all wheels have the same ones.

Thanks

Mike

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Wow guys, you all started typing as I was also replying. There doesn’t seem to be any fouling, but I will source some like suggested.

Thanks all

Mike

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The standard nuts look like nothing out of the ordinary...misleading, they are high quality material and the double chamfer allows the spline adaptors to be torqued up correctly. Those nuts supplied with your wheels do not look like the same nut material at all, they look soft, the standard nuts are hard.

Mick Richards

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13 hours ago, Aldpilot said:

Wow guys, you all started typing as I was also replying. There doesn’t seem to be any fouling, but I will source some like suggested.

Thanks all

Mike

When you get your new nuts make sure that you have a six point socket to tighten with and use it with a long extension to keep it square on the nut.  There is not much location compared with a standard nut and they are easily wrecked with a sloppy bi-hex socket. 

Edited by Drewmotty
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26 minutes ago, Drewmotty said:

When you get your new nuts make sure that you have a six point socket to tighten with and use it with a long extension to keep it square on the nut.  There is not much location compared with a standard nut and they are easily wrecked with a sloppy bi-hex socket. 

Good to point this out!

I threw all bi-hex sockets in the bin about 15 years ago and only use metric and imperial hex sockets since that.

And a set of 'multi lock sockets' for bolts and plugscwith square heads!

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I use a socket which I  modified to fit better. I ground the face of the socket absolutely flat so that the maximum amount of the stud nuts is covered. I had to replace four studs on the rear of my 3A after they came loose. I tried the new tapered nuts but the old ones were better quality material and it has been alright for two years now. I had a slight click from the wheel and ended up replacing the wheel,  hub extension and studs.

Good luck Richard & B

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More great advice, thank you. I am about to ring Moss and get enough nuts to fit to all 4 wheels (their email to me says they are running on a skeleton staff, but open for mail order). If I can get to speak to someone I will check the nuts are chamfered on both sided, but just want to ask if The Moss product has been found to be of an acceptable quality?
 

This thread has been invaluable and shows how a straightforward question and photos, turns into a full analysis of what I need to do, right down to taking care to fit the nuts diligently (and all in 24 hours). Thank you Forumites.

Mike

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BTW, what I remember,

I wanted to replace the nuts some years ago,

but they straight went to the scrap because the angle of the cone was the product of chinese nightmares.

A set of new wire wheels adators I had to countesunk new because they used a standard 118° drill for that

Edited by Z320
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22 hours ago, Aldpilot said:

Wow guys, you all started typing as I was also replying. There doesn’t seem to be any fouling, but I will source some like suggested.

Thanks all

Mike

 

5 hours ago, Aldpilot said:

More great advice, thank you. I am about to ring Moss and get enough nuts to fit to all 4 wheels (their email to me says they are running on a skeleton staff, but open for mail order). If I can get to speak to someone I will check the nuts are chamfered on both sided, but just want to ask if The Moss product has been found to be of an acceptable quality?
 

This thread has been invaluable and shows how a straightforward question and photos, turns into a full analysis of what I need to do, right down to taking care to fit the nuts diligently (and all in 24 hours). Thank you Forumites.

Mike

Mike - if you have any difficulty with getting these from Moss . I have a box full which I will happily let you have 16 from at a very reasonable price.

cheers Rich

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