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Mmmm, this is getting dark. Think I might drain and re-fill with water/antifreeze and test. Then if problem persists partially drain down, examine pump & change if necessary and test. Then if problem persists re-core rad and test. Then if problem persists ring Dignitas.

 

Thank you to everyone, all advice gratefully received.

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i was reluctant to say that but yes wrong stuff,  competition engine builders void any responsibility if this is used.

so must be a good indicator .

Roy

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so...Evans = Snake Oil  ?

Peter W

 

PS Steve - It may be that your flushing has shifted the crud from the block into the radiator core tubes.  The old fashion trick of removing and back flushing could solve that issue.

Peter W

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Agreement on here is rare, but i think we have agreement that water and antifreeze is the way to go.

when i bought my tr6 back in december 2012 the ‘antifreeze’ in it was brown..... after investigating options i found and used a Holts Two Part flushing system.

All sorts of **** came out in the flushing/reverse flushing, and after refilling with nice blue af mix all has been well ever since.

steve

  

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1 hour ago, RobH said:

Which is exactly the wrong reason for using the stuff.   It is worse at cooling than water because the specific heat of water is higher than that of glycol (or any other liquid come to that). Put simply, water can shift 30% more heat per unit volume. The temperature of your coolant may look good (which is what the gauge measures and the thermostat regulates) but the temperature of the engine block will be higher than if you used water. 

In my line of work, large industrial water cooled brakes, we consider ethylene glycol ( anti-freeze without additives to inhibit corrosion for which it is notorious ) to require 4X the flow to carry away the same amount of heat as H2O. So we specify a corrosion inhibitor in < 1% solution in water for cooling our stuff.

 

Tom

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Steve,

Good idea to switch to “normal coolant”, that’s what many of us use (me too). Pay attention to blurping the system. Also, is your thermostat fitted the correct way? The “spring” should be at the pump side, not the radiator side, so spring facing down. There also should be a small hole in the thermostat, preferably with a small loose bit in it to keep it free. 
Waldi

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20 minutes ago, Waldi said:

Steve,

Good idea to switch to “normal coolant”, that’s what many of us use (me too). Pay attention to blurping the system. Also, is your thermostat fitted the correct way? The “spring” should be at the pump side, not the radiator side, so spring facing down. There also should be a small hole in the thermostat, preferably with a small loose bit in it to keep it free. 
Waldi

Good idea to remember Waldi, the "little wiggle pin" in the hole needs positioning to the top of the hole allowing air through if in the system.

Mick Richards

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Hi Steve,

in my opinion bleeding is never the problem on our TRs.

If your previous thermostat has no "little wiggle pin" try to look through it against a strong light.

I'm shure you see the light through a small gap caused by a little "bend" or "notch" on the valve disc.

And if not: don't care, as above: bleeding is never the problem.

Ciao, Marco

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14 hours ago, Tom Fremont said:

In my line of work, large industrial water cooled brakes, we consider ethylene glycol ( anti-freeze without additives to inhibit corrosion for which it is notorious ) to require 4X the flow to carry away the same amount of heat as H2O. So we specify a corrosion inhibitor in < 1% solution in water for cooling our stuff.

 

Tom

Tom

Does that imply the lowest concentration of anti freeze for the prevailing temperature in your area but sufficent to retain it's anti corrosion properties?

What about the likes of Water Wetter which claims to improve the heat transfer properties of the coolant? (Personal experience of this gave a reduction in temperature of 5 deg and less use of the radiator fan)

Phil

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2 hours ago, PhilipB said:

Tom

Does that imply the lowest concentration of anti freeze for the prevailing temperature in your area but sufficient to retain it's anti corrosion properties?

What about the likes of Water Wetter which claims to improve the heat transfer properties of the coolant? (Personal experience of this gave a reduction in temperature of 5 deg and less use of the radiator fan)

Phil

Affirmative; more anti-freeze than required lowers the cooling efficiency without benefit. Can't comment on Water Wetter; I have had no reason to enhance the cooling performance on my Webered '250s but I don't race them. Regular coolant replacement and flushing is important of course.

 

Tom

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  • 1 month later...

As a follow up, the cause was indeed a severely blocked rad. Following a re-core all is well. I have refilled the system with water and anti-freeze as I have taken on board the concern expressed on here regarding Evans cooling fluid. I have to say that my primary reason for reverting to conventional cooling fluid was primarily one of cost, as, every time there is a cooling system issue you can kiss good bye to ££££££'s. Also it dawned on me that Evans cooling fluid was the answer to a question that didn't need to be asked!

Anyway, thanks to all contributors on this subject. 

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Glad to hear its fixed Steve!

so do you think that the blockage was caused by flushing ?

steve

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