aterro Posted March 21, 2020 Report Share Posted March 21, 2020 Hi all, I am planning to rebuild my late fathers 1964 TR4 engine and I have encountered a few issues/questions which I don't know which to go with. After stripping the engine down, which was a fairly easy task, I attempted to remove the liners. All but the fourth liner moved quite easily. The corrosion around the fourth liner was horrific and i really struggled to remove it, but sheer determination got it out. Once removed, I cleaned the "crud" off and saw the seat of the liner corroded away sections of the block. I am firstly concerned about the level of block corrosion and if this bottom end is usable. Within the FlickR link is a few pictures to show the damage around the fourth and third liner seat. I am also concerned about the surface of the block being corroded in places and the photos are contained within the below link. https://flic.kr/s/aHsmM6C8WB If it is usable, my plan was to get the block acid dipped and remove the camshaft bearings, with some sort of pulley tool. I have received a price for the cleaning and machining which is; Acid dip block £90, Grind crank £111.50, Grind crank to suit better oil seal £80, Head Crack Test £24, Pressure test £37.50, Lighten flywheel £85, Balance crank £75.00,Balance flywheel £49.00, Balance clutch £45. Oil gallery clean/de-bung £18, Crank de-bung £80.00. This comes out for approx £750 plus VAT. I have never rebuilt a bottom end and I would of asked my Father whether this prices are ok or whether this is expensive. I would therefore appreciate someone being honest with me. In terms of the rebuild, I have all the basic normal tools (sockets/spanners, good tongue wrench, crane, stand etc) what i don't have is the following; 1) Piston ring compressor 2) Cam bearing removal tool(i believe i can use some threaded bar and associated attached) 3) a tool to hold the liners down 4) Micrometer 5) DTI Gauge. Can anyone recommend me any tools requested above? I am not sure what accuracy i need the micrometer/dti gauge to be either. If there is anything else i need, id appreciate if you could let me know? Once the engine is rebuilt, I am looking for a new Chassis, for someone to rebuild the gearbox(non overdrive) and rebuild the rear axle with an LSD. in terms of over general questions; 1) 89mm pistons/Liners. Any recommendations on supplier? 2) some sort of upgraded camshaft (what is the best duration for a road car 300/or slightly less wild at 290? 5) new front timing chain cover as mine has wear on it from broken tensioner. Does anyone sell these new? Thank you in advance for any help with this. Aaron Leicestershire Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted March 21, 2020 Report Share Posted March 21, 2020 11 minutes ago, aterro said: Hi all, I am planning to rebuild my late fathers 1964 TR4 engine and I have encountered a few issues/questions which I don't know which to go with. After stripping the engine down, which was a fairly easy task, I attempted to remove the liners. All but the fourth liner moved quite easily. The corrosion around the fourth liner was horrific and i really struggled to remove it, but sheer determination got it out. Once removed, I cleaned the "crud" off and saw the seat of the liner corroded away sections of the block. I am firstly concerned about the level of block corrosion and if this bottom end is usable. Within the FlickR link is a few pictures to show the damage around the fourth and third liner seat. I am also concerned about the surface of the block being corroded in places and the photos are contained within the below link. The block and liner seats look about par for the course. Once everything is clean you should be lucky enough so that any corrosion pits in the liner seats could be filled wityh JBWeld etc. Make sure it is rubbed down smooth and flat. The liners will hold it all inplace. Use WeSeal on ALL mating surfaces of the Fo8 seals. https://flic.kr/s/aHsmM6C8WB If it is usable, my plan was to get the block acid dipped and remove the camshaft bearings, with some sort of pulley tool. 10mm studding and round of Ali just smaller than the OD. I have received a price for the cleaning and machining which is; Acid dip block £90, Grind crank £111.50, Grind crank to suit better oil seal £80, Don't do this Get a Christian Marx Lip - excellent product £120 and the crank remains standard Head Crack Test £24, P ressure test £37.50, Lighten flywheel £85, Why??? are you going racing Balance crank £75.00, Balance flywheel £49.00, Balance clutch £45. these are ALL done in one go Oil gallery clean/de-bung £18, Make sure oil gallery end plugs are fitted tightly and sealed Crank de-bung £80.00. Don't touch the bungs/ grub screws - the crank can be adequately cleaned as is This comes out for approx £750 plus VAT. I have never rebuilt a bottom end and I would of asked my Father whether this prices are ok or whether this is expensive. I would therefore appreciate someone being honest with me. You may get it done cheaper and certainly more expensive but that sounds middle of the road. In terms of the rebuild, I have all the basic normal tools (sockets/spanners, good tongue wrench, crane, stand etc) what i don't have is the following; 1) Piston ring compressor Halfords etc 2) Cam bearing removal tool(i believe i can use some threaded bar and associated attached) If you have a lathe or access to one make a round just smaller than the bearing OD + 10mm studding from Wickes 3) a tool to hold the liners down Very large penny washers located on the head studs - once the liners are in/sealed and set for correct height do NOT rotate the crank without the liners being held down - this is serious. 4) Micrometer - handy to Mic' the Fo8's 5) DTI Gauge. Handy to check the height of the liners 0.003" - 0.005" ABOVE the block - feeler gauges and 1/2" diameter of silver steel works well to check the liner height Can anyone recommend me any tools requested above? I am not sure what accuracy i need the micrometer/dti gauge to be either. If there is anything else i need, id appreciate if you could let me know? Tools etc from Machine Mart - reasonable quality Once the engine is rebuilt, I am looking for a new Chassis, for someone to rebuild the gearbox(non overdrive) and rebuild the rear axle with an LSD. Revington do new chassis. CTM have moved to France and do the best chassis, Moss can get them etc, ORS in Sheffield do excellent GB work LSD - so you are going racing !! in terms of over general questions; 1) 89mm pistons/Liners. Any recommendations on supplier? 89mm are big are you sure. TRShop do good well priced kits - or you can spend a firtune elsewhere 2) some sort of upgraded camshaft (what is the best duration for a road car 300/or slightly less wild at 290? Seriously consider the Newman PH1 with their chilled iron tappets 5) new front timing chain cover as mine has wear on it from broken tensioner. Does anyone sell these new? Repair the old one if it has broken through other wise leave alone Thank you in advance for any help with this. Aaron Leicestershire Roger 11 minutes ago, aterro said: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted March 21, 2020 Report Share Posted March 21, 2020 Aaron i echo Rogers thoughts. but also his question about competition use. if you are going racing /sprinting be very careful as to your upgrades and if they would exclude you or put you up classes. this is engine power , cc and LSD. if you want lsd fitted just ask Peter Cox. https://petecoxsportscars.co.uk Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted March 22, 2020 Report Share Posted March 22, 2020 Pete Cox and his son, Tom, can rebuild gearbox, overdrive and axle - address as above. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.