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great stuff well done.

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Definitely get onto it. I wasn't sure I would ever use the hardtop, but now it's on I love it. I am currently making a polycarbonate rear window that can be easily removed and put in the boot. Most of the time I will drive with hardtop on but rear window out. I also didn't upholster the hardtop lining I just sprayed the inside metal black.

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Nice to see some other TR6 owners with good taste. :D:P:D

I have always preferred sports cars with hardtops, I know I am the odd one out, my first car was a Damson soft-top TR6, my second car was a White hardtop TR6.

I could not really afford to keep them very long back then.

About 2 years ago I decided to treat myself to a British Racing Green soft-top TR6.

I considered myself very lucky to get an NOS hardtop from T.D. Fitchett and almost all the other parts required. 

I think by the time the hardtop was fitted to my car it cost roughly £2200/£2400 a lot of money but I think worth the money.

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Edited by mhossack
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Very Smart!

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5 hours ago, mhossack said:

Nice to see some other TR6 owners with good taste. :D:P:D

I have always preferred sports cars with hardtops, I know I am the odd one out, my first car was a Damson soft-top TR6, my second car was a White hardtop TR6.

 

 

I have the same opinion.

Simon

 

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Hi Angus I can’t quite see from your photo which parts you re-manufactured, but I think you are talking about both the male and female fittings I can just about see, and that would make complete sense.

Although I was able to source almost every part needed, the only parts I did not get were the internal trim pieces part No’s: 726351/726361/822241 although they were available in the USA, but expensive.

I may have made a mistake and only ordered 1 male part No: 625315 from The Roadster Factory USA $38.97 luckily Rimmers had them in stock for £24.00 now £27.30.

The Roadster Factory USA only had the female part No: 625311 for $17.49 now $34.95. Part No: 625312 no longer available.

I could have purchased them second hand in the UK, but not naming the TR specialist they wanted an outrageous price for them.   

Being a little eccentric I wanted a matching pair. I am very lucky I have a friend Steve who has an engineering company making industrial radiators so Steve found the pair easy to make although the original were cast, plus Steve has a powder coating company almost next door.

Although I did the drawing, I would not have been able to do so without one of the originals to measure.  

I could not get part No’s: 625309/623310 and 2 x 625308, but they are both not much more than packers. I could easily cut metal packers if necessary I can’t remember if I had to but I think I did, my TR is garaged away from my house so can’t look. 

As you can tell this Covid 19 is giving me too much time on my hands.

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I could take the credit but I won't I am going to add the drawing in 2 different formats. 

I tried to add my drawing but it was such poor quality it could not be viewed so I asked my brothers friend Paul what I could do, Paul said leave it to him and he has come up with this professional drawing.

Paul is a very good all rounder, Paul helped me with the hard technical details which allowed us to rewire my car to an extremely high standard.     Bracket1.thumb.jpg.04a930d2391620a987350479798ea455.jpgBracket1.thumb.png.9d28b76eadc9f65ae3657f8f9f7cf1be.png 

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A bit different with a black roof. Itching to get her out of winter storage.

 

image.jpeg

Edited by Graham J
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Hi Angus a much better photo of your bracket thanks, did you make all three pieces.

The flat plate I have seen for sale on US websites but can throw the pitch out of line, which is so surprising considering how us Brits built cars back then.

One expertise our car workers and shirkers had back then, and which has never been equalled or beaten by any foreign car workers is striking.

If it was an Olympic and World sport we would still be undefeated Olympic and World champions.

Now back to your flat plate I think it looks very good, all I did was put the other 2 soft-top frame screws back into there fixing holes.

Just curious are your Allan key head screws non standard, mine are slot head, but Allan key heads are much better to use no slipping or ruining the slots.

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Yes I made all the parts. I bought two pieces of metal tube, one that would slide inside the other and some flat plate steel. I made cardboard templates for all the flat metal parts. The rest was just flattening and bending one end of the smaller bottom tube and running a thread into the top. Then welded a section of the larger tube to the flat metal bracket that bolts on to the roof. And as for the allen key bolts, they were on the car when I purchased it. They look like they have been on the car for a long time, but I am unsure of originality.

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