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Screen frame to scuttle


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Hi all 

I’m about to fit the screen frame, once I get the seal fitted (several hands required), and wondered what the smart advise on using a sealant under the seal was?

 I was considering using non setting black roof mastic - any other suggestions?

cheers Neil

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Hi not sure if this will work Arbomast Autograde Sealant (non setting), this was recommend by Crown Classics Twickenham TR specialist for my hardtop glass.

I used it on my rear lights leaking into the boot, and I also used it to seal my new gear box tunnel. 

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Hi Neil,

I questioned myself too, couple of weeks ago.

I think: yes no need it to avoid water-ingress, especially when driving. My frame, when I removed it, had this typical grey but still soft mastic, could well be original.

I have trial fitted now the screen currently, but at final assembly I plan to use mastic on both sides of the rubber seal (top and bottom), like windscreen sealant. 

Waldi

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I’ve just re fitted my frame to the scuttle, did it myself. Easier to get the scuttle seal in place than I thought. I started with some para cord tucked in the seal, once part seated on the scuttle I pulled this from end to end to position the seal lip outwards then continued to tighten the screen down using a thin rounded plastic tool seating the seal in position. I have some flexible sealer but yet to decide to use it. I have used butyl sealant on the top capping though.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi All

Just refitted my windscreen after full rebuild.

Old screen rubber had no sign of mastic and looked original. (1973 CR)

New Rubber went on with no problem just using a wooden tool to lift the rubber whilst tightening down. Have not used any mastic / sealer on refit as despite many drives over many years in heavy weather I have never had any leaks from the windscreen.

Here's hoping this works for me.

John

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Hi All.

Just a cautionary note re bolting down the screen frame.

When doing this don't go overboard as the PO of my car did and end up with the screen at the wrong angle! 

The angle needs to match the leading edge of the side windows but also such that the top edge of the same needs to match the angle of the soft top opening.

On my car I ran out of adjustment in the bolts that secure the w/screen post brackets (behind the front edges of the doors) leaving a gap which allowed the PO to pull the screen down too low.  There is also a limit to how much you can juggle the side windows to match the screen angle and also the horizontal soft top opening (as I found out the hard way).

In my case, after adjsting the side windows and screen clamp bolt nest to it I ended up with slightly different angles each side of the screen frame but this allowed me to match everything up nicely as the photo shows. 

The only remaining issue was that I had a gap above the screen post brackets both sides preventing me from putting any real torque on the nuts without altering the screen angle.

No photos sorry, just a really rough sketch showing where I installed horseshoe shaped spacers of the correct thickness by tapping them into place (awkward, but do-able).

I was then able to crank the locking nuts up tight without altering the screen angle leaving me with a good fit all around.

Gavin

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