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Windscreen stanchion position


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About seven years ago, when my tub was being repaired, the section of the scuttle which carries the stanchion mounting plates was cut out and replaced with sound metal on both sides. It had previously been bodged to the extent that the screen was twisted, and was very corroded. I am now faced with the task of re-locating the fixings on a completely plain panel.

I plan to set up the windscreen frame, and use the hard top to help locate the top, but really need some dimensions as to where the bottom of the stanchions should sit.  I would therefore be very grateful if someone (or several people and we can take an average) could measure the distance between, say, the centre of the rear fixing hole and the sharp point of the body where the top of the A post curves to meet the top of the door.  The car is a '58 TR3A, with deuz fasteners.

Many thanks in anticipation,

Dave

 

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Hi David.

If it helps I have a stanchion plate cut out section which I use when making stanchion plates. Please send me a PM giving your contact details if you want to.

I would also be happy to take a few general measurements if you think it would help. Having said that if your hard top is original I would tend to go with that, and make the side screens to fit. If all did not come off the same car they could be well out.

Regards Russell

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14 hours ago, Dave Herrod said:

Thanks Tom, that is a really good idea - especially as I have a pair of sidescreen frames that I was going to get covered anyway. 

How far does the front of the covered sidescreen project beyond the frame?

Everything I have read suggests the opposite, that the side screens should be fitted to the doors last and adjusted to align with the screen stanchions. I have a 3a shell in the garage at the moment, I will get out there and take some photos with dimensions later today.

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Thanks Ralph- that would be great.

As I have a shell (but with no fixing holes), the original windscreen frame, a factory hardtop (but never fitted to this car) and some bare sidescreen frames, I theoretically have the opportunity to engineer a perfect fit!

However, there is also a huge number of potential variables in putting that lot together, and  some measurements to put me in the right area to start with would be very helpful.

I'm actually looking forward to this bit, although still a few weeks off.

Dave

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as promised, though it may be confusing. I started by putting a straight line (in red) through the hole centres, then measured as accurately as I could the distance up from the inside curve of the wing swage line at the bonnet end, then the distance in from the point at the door opening. I then measured in along the red line to the hole centres. I think the pics explain it, but if there  are any other measurements you require message me.

20200317_162419.jpg

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FWIW the sidescreen frame sits about an inch or so behind the screen frame as there is a waste edge section of material that sticks out from the forward edge of the frame and should slot into the channel in the side of the frame.

Stuart.

 

Marks TR5 705.jpg

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1 hour ago, stuart said:

FWIW the sidescreen frame sits about an inch or so behind the screen frame as there is a waste edge section of material that sticks out from the forward edge of the frame and should slot into the channel in the side of the frame.

Stuart.

 

Marks TR5 705.jpg

In some, the fit is perfect and they don't pop out at speed, in others poor. Seems some are stiffer there.

I remember that if you fiddle with alignment and adjustment in the slot type you can get a better join.

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Getting the sidescreens to fit properly everywhere is quite a challenge. You have to be prepared to bend the supporting steel arms to suit, as well as adjusting the position of the door fixings. The bets result is to have slight inward bias at the top, so when the door is closed, the top of the screen goes into the slot in the stanchion first, then as the door closes fully the rest of the front edge follows, & it becomes pretty jammed in !

All this while keeping the top of the screen at just the right height to fit the hood, & the rear of the screen sitting nicely against the hood also.

Bob.

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  • 3 months later...

Just as an update, I transferred Ralph's dimensions onto my body last weekend and both sides seemed remarkably symmetrical - including check dims diagonally across the cockpit.  It is, of course, difficult to hold the windscreen surround and adjust each side, so this weekend I plan to measure it all again and pluck up the courage to drill a couple of pilot holes in the forward fixings which will allow me to play around with the angle of dangle and see how it all marries up with the hard top.  Thanks again for all the replies, especially Ralph's dimensions which really should be captured somewhere for posterity.

Cheers, Dave.

Edited by Dave Herrod
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Dave

I've had to adjust the guide plates on the TR2 to get the angle right and to accommodate both soft top and new (to me) hard top.

If you fix the position of the front hole, any adjustment of rake will have a disporportionate effect on the gap at the bottom of the screen and therefore the effectiveness (or not!) of the rubber seal in keeping the elements out. ie when you decrease the rake to make the screen more upright, it will pivot around the front fixing and open up the gap, and vice versa. Whereas if you fix the rearmost fixing, the effect on the gap will be much reduced as the frame rotates about that point

I would recommend you fix the position of the rearmost fixing first then play with the rake.

 

Phil

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Hi There,

I would suggest before drilling any holes that you should fit some sort gasket material between stanchion and scuttle panel. You will need this in addition to the under screen rubber.

i used 3m rubber tape sandwiched between the stanchion and scuttle that when squeezed up formed a cushion that will absorb any potential movement  and also prevent a certain amount of potential distortion of the scuttle. I presume that you are fitting the backing plate and tacking in place on final fittment. There only the two dome head screws to tighten attaching the stanchion so potentially you can not tighten a massive amount. The brass stanchion doe not bend that much so you would distort the scuttle or it might be too slack  fit.

i would also fit the bottom rubber seal to get a feel for how it will seal on completion, or you may have wet thighs for fun. They leak badly already even when as original.

Rod

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Thanks for the further replies.

Initially, i am using the bare windscreen frame with the rubber seal but without the glass to get the position of the deuz fasteners right such that the windscreen marries up with the hard top.   I will then use that to determine the position of the fixing bolts for the guide plates and the slots needed to accommodate the spring clips which receive the deuz fasteners.  The chap who did the tub repairs for me also fabricated some sturdy backing plates with tapped holes and milled out slots to mate with the guide plates.  Once all lined up, these will be tacked into position.

I well remember the wet legs from when I used it as a daily driver, but most of the water came around the glass seal...until I stopped it with a lot of silicone sealant! I am hoping for a more elegant and original solution this time.

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Dave,

Point worth mentioning before you drill any holes, the measurements I took for you are from my post 60000 car which does not have Dzus fixings, the stanchions are bolted straight into the panel. I did not realise that your car had the dzus type. I am pretty sure that the backing plate for that type has different hole centers on the bulkhead.

Ralph

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Thanks Ralph, I had thought it might be.  The centres of the Dzus fittings seems to be the same as the later mounting bolts, but I had thought that the stanchion was a pretty close fit to the  scuttle without the guide plate when I offered it up.  I suspect I may need to lift them slightly, and was going to cut out a pair of dummy guide plates to make sure.

Does anyone has an early shell from which they could take similar measurements just to confirm?

Not drilling just yet!

 

 

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I think you are right in that the hole measurements I gave you should correspond to the dzus holes in the main stanchion. The later cars like mine seemed to be using up the dzus stanchions, in so far as mine are machined out on the inside to slide on to a backing plate just like the dzus type, and I suspect are interchangeable, but the backing plate only has two plain holes which correspond to the stanchion holes and the whole lot gets sandwiched together with 2 slot headed setscrews.

Ralph.

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