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Riders on the storm... My 1956 TR3


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6 minutes ago, Lebro said:

The TR shop sells complete rocker assemblies for a reasonable price.

I fitted one a few years ago, & am quite happy with it. No pedestals though.

Bob

Thanks Bob, their exchange set now includes shaft, rockers and pedestals according to their online specials. I suspect its the same supplier as for this one: https://www.betaset.fr/haut-moteur/186-rampe-de-culbuteurs-complete-reconditionnee.html?search_query=culbuteur&results=136

I've found a local machine shop who could work on the old rockers. I guess I would need to fit new bronze bushes to them too.

I'm in two minds as to how to go about this. Plus I don't want the car to be off the road for too long now that decent weather is finally here.

 

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If you can wrangle a length of cord or wire down and under the bottom (layshaft) gears and try lifting the gear cluster. Try at each end. If there is any up and down movement the shaft and bearings ha

Hi all, 15 years after buying my TR6, a spitfire, an abandoned TR6 project and many Land Rovers later, I'm finally back in a TR! A 1956 TR3 with a rather flashy colour scheme. A huge thanks

I just need to paint the chassis where its sitting on the lift pads but other than that...  Mission accomplished! 

Posted Images

 

I had a rummage through the documentation that came with the car and the cam specs (hope it's the cam that's fitted - piper 3ty) call for 0.015 clearance on both inlet and exhaust. 

The current plan of action is to entertain the little one until he's ready for bed, refit the current assembly and readjust the clearances using the quarter turn method, run the engine and check to see if the pushrods are rotating freely in the followers. 

Then I'll know if it's a head off job or not which I can do while I wait for new rockers, etc. 

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Now THAT'S a worn follower noise....

But I wouldn't bother, and certainly not remove the head for this, mate.

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3 hours ago, Chris59 said:

Now THAT'S a worn follower noise....

But I wouldn't bother, and certainly not remove the head for this, mate.

Thanks

Another job for the colder months along with my timing cover oil seal...

I need to build a garage with enough space to work on the car before then!

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6 hours ago, Chris59 said:

Yes, especially if you want to add my 2500 PI Mk2 to your small fleet, mate :lol:

Perfect for ferrying the little one round in winter to make sure they are properly Triumphised when they grow up :P

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Just now, Kiwifrog said:

Perfect for ferrying the little one round in winter to make sure they are properly Triumphised when they grow up :P

Alan, how much is @Chris59 paying you for the plug? 

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22 hours ago, EliTR6 said:

PXL-20210724-164858994.jpg

My box of bits and bobs has arrived 

I'll clean them up tomorrow but they look in much better nick than the current set 

They might do but I would still strip them right down to check the shaft.

Stuart.

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2 minutes ago, stuart said:

They might do but I would still strip them right down to check the shaft.

Stuart.

Hi Stuart, yes I've cleaned them and started dismantling them. 

I've been busy with tappets of another nature today. The TR is a doddle by comparison 

PXL-20210725-155501306.jpg

 

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8 minutes ago, EliTR6 said:

Hi Stuart, yes I've cleaned them and started dismantling them. 

I've been busy with tappets of another nature today. The TR is a doddle by comparison 

PXL-20210725-155501306.jpg

 

Ah yes Landrover, good luck with that!

Stuart

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On 7/19/2021 at 1:10 PM, EliTR6 said:

 

I had a quick call with Jean-Christophe over lunch. He reckons the pedestals are toast and that new rockers are hit and miss in quality so best to resurface the old ones. 

I've found a couple of cheap used rocker assemblies so I'll hopefully be able to make ones good set out of 3 poor ones. 

A new shaft won't do any harm... 

PXL-20210719-112309812.jpg

How long do these shafts last for generally? 

I'm starting to doubt that it had a full engine rebuild 10k miles ago (but 30 years ago). 

I don`t know, that looks barely run in to me, look at the one I took off,

Ralph

20210726_090505.jpg

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On 7/26/2021 at 10:11 AM, Ralph Whitaker said:

I don`t know, that looks barely run in to me, look at the one I took off,

Ralph

20210726_090505.jpg

Ouch!

I don't think I'm going to be able to put up with the noisy follower for very long. It's all I can hear now

I think it's going to be head off time soon

 

 

 

 

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  • 5 weeks later...

Still driving the 3 most days, hope I'm not doing any long term damage to the engine. Is it worth pulling the rocker assembly off, removing the pushrods and giving the followers a bit of a jiggle to see if whatever is sticking frees up ? 

Fuel consumption is still 17mpg but no leaks I can see this time 

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PXL-20210829-191358576-NIGHT.jpg

I've cleared up space in the garage so I can get busy sorting out my valve and timing cover leak issues. 

I'm going to order all the seals and gaskets and wait for some bad weather to materialise before getting stuck in. 

Any point ordering the arp kit and reinforced head gasket? 

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14 hours ago, EliTR6 said:

I've cleared up space in the garage so I can get busy sorting out my valve and timing cover leak issues. 

I'm going to order all the seals and gaskets and wait for some bad weather to materialise before getting stuck in. 

Any point ordering the arp kit and reinforced head gasket? 

What a brilliant (and spooky) photo! Incidentally, the colour combination looks very nice, on this darker scale.

Hey, Eli what is an arp kit, please?

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ARP, they make studs, bolts, ....  

I wouldn't rebuilt a TR wetliner engine without using ARP head studs, and, ideally, conrods and crankshaft bolts.

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10 minutes ago, Chris59 said:

ARP, they make studs, bolts, ....  

I wouldn't rebuilt a TR wetliner engine without using ARP head studs, and, ideally, conrods and crankshaft bolts.

Hi Chris,

That's interesting, do you fit the ARPs dry or lubed what torques do you use on the 

Head stud nuts

Conrods

Crankshaft bolts

As a builder of 23 x TR 4 cylinder engines (on my last now) I'm always learning, what benefits do you find in using the ARP eqipment.

Mick Richards

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Hi Mickey, I use the lube as include with the studs, and apply the same torque as original studs.

I've had so many so called "new" head studs, or old original ones who broke in the engine block thant I do not want to play this game anymore.

 

Edit : joyeux anniversaire/happy birthday !

Edited by Chris59
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Hi Chris,

That's bad news. The cylinder head nut standard torque is 105lb ft DRY which is the Triumph appied torque, this when applied to a lubed thread will apply approx 20% INCREASE in clamping force...that's another 21lb ft making a torqued fastener of about 126 lb ft. I know the ARP fastening will take that torque...but I'm not sure about the block material ! 

I've run with 110 lb ft torque to the cylinder head nuts applied dry and that's been ok, when I've rebuilt using the ARP cylinder head fastenings with lube I have only torqued to 90lb ft torque which with it's 20% increase in clamp makes a 108 lb ft clamped torque.

When I next get my hands on a scrap block I'm determined to extend the torque range until I manage to strip the block material and catologue the figure. Of course the crankshaft bearings surfaces would also need checking to see if the extra clamping force still allowed the crankshaft to be aligned once the extra block stresses were accounted for.

Also if you've tightened standard con rods with ARP fastenings it's possible the 20% increase in clamp may deform the big end clamped shape taking it out of round. I would apply that torque first to a secured con rod outside the engine (vice in protected grips) and then check the big ends for "out of roundness." For conrods I've used Unbrako cap heads with a splash of Blue Loctite (even this increases the torque marginally), torqued to the standard torques.

I've never fitted ARP to my engines only ever using original used Triumph studs and nuts. I do check the thread condition minutely and on the rare occasion I find a necked or galled thread I substitute the stud with another (who did you think bought these used engine ancillaries). I've never stripped a stud or nut in use and I've never had a returned engine from clients with a fastening failure. I guess I'm just lucky.

Micky

Thankyou for your Birthday wishes, I trust you have had a good summer.

Edited by Motorsport Mickey
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No worries Mickey, I use the lube only under the nuts, where their face mate the head, not on threads, and never had any problems since my first wet liner rebuilt, some 20 years ago.

 

Yes, holidays in my holiday house in the French Alps were, as always, fantastic, thanks ;) 

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