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Riders on the storm... My 1956 TR3


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7 hours ago, Motorsport Mickey said:

Remember front pulley torque is at least 120 lb ft to tighten.

Mick Richards

How would you stop the engine turning to get that amount of Torque with the engine in the car?

Ralph

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If you can wrangle a length of cord or wire down and under the bottom (layshaft) gears and try lifting the gear cluster. Try at each end. If there is any up and down movement the shaft and bearings ha

Hi all, 15 years after buying my TR6, a spitfire, an abandoned TR6 project and many Land Rovers later, I'm finally back in a TR! A 1956 TR3 with a rather flashy colour scheme. A huge thanks

I just need to paint the chassis where its sitting on the lift pads but other than that...  Mission accomplished! 

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33 minutes ago, Ralph Whitaker said:

How would you stop the engine turning to get that amount of Torque with the engine in the car?

Ralph

Put it in 4th gear with the handbrake on?

Rgds Ian

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3 hours ago, Ian Vincent said:

Duplicate

Edited by Motorsport Mickey
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Just now, Motorsport Mickey said:

+ 1  a brick in front of the tyres helps also.

Also get wife or a mate to sit in the car with their foot on the brakes.

Or if the above unavailable remove the sump and insert a block of wood against the crank and block side in the rotation cycle.

Mick Richards

 

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23 hours ago, Ralph Whitaker said:

How would you stop the engine turning to get that amount of Torque with the engine in the car?

Ralph

I don`t like the thought of putting that strain through the gearbox, though I suppose if it can take 100 horsepower, but you get a lot of "wind up" that way.

 I think I would either remove the starter or the flywheel cover plate and jam the starter ring gear.

Ralph

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“though I suppose if it can take 100 horsepower, but you get a lot of "wind up" that way.“

Be thankful we are not trying to put 140 lb ft on it which is the official figure ! (I’ve built more than 20 engines using 120 lbs ( in deference to their 50 year old age) and the y don’t come loose.

I promise you any maindealer would not hesitate to use the methods mentioned above. “It’s not a watch” as Stuart Jenkins was fond of saying.

Mick Richards


 

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31 minutes ago, EliTR6 said:

I take it there's no risk running it as is until I get around to fixing it?

Cheers

Bit of a “shake of the dice” depending upon what the previous rebuilder did.

 I had a collection of about 6 pulleys with various amounts of wearing on the Woodruff keyway. ( worst about 6mm side slot) found when breaking engines down for rebuild. Keep an ear ‘ open’ they often make an “. orrible” clacking noise when they move.
Hopefully the previous rebuilder had found the torque chart from a TR3 3rd edition 6 th reprint ( I think) workshop manual which I became aware of last year. after Lionel from Aussie land sent me a screenshot of his manual ( manufacturer revision for export models). It shows the 140 lb ft for the pulley but I’d been rebuilding using 120 lbs for years after not finding it shown on any manual I checked. My Stag had 120 lb shown on it’s front pulley from it’s manual with same thread, so I reckoned it was a no brainier.

Mick Richards

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Am I correct in thinking 120ft lbs is just a 10 stone person standing on the end of a 1 ft spanner oriented parallel to the floor. Not too much torque in the scheme of things?

Tim

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22 minutes ago, Tim D. said:

Am I correct in thinking 120ft lbs is just a 10 stone person standing on the end of a 1 ft spanner oriented parallel to the floor. Not too much torque in the scheme of things?

Tim

The person needs to be 8.6 stone

A stone is 14 lbs, so your analogy gives 140 ft lbs

Peter W

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19 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

The person needs to be 8.6 stone

A stone is 14 lbs, so your analogy gives 140 ft lbs

Peter W

:-)... was thinking of the 140 ft lbs mentioned earlier in the thread (doh!).

Now where can I find someone who is 8.6 stone ;-)

Tim

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51 minutes ago, Lebro said:

I better go on a diet then !   :ph34r:

Bob

or get a shorter spanner

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22 hours ago, Motorsport Mickey said:

Bit of a “shake of the dice” depending upon what the previous rebuilder did.

 I had a collection of about 6 pulleys with various amounts of wearing on the Woodruff keyway. ( worst about 6mm side slot) found when breaking engines down for rebuild. Keep an ear ‘ open’ they often make an “. orrible” clacking noise when they move.
Hopefully the previous rebuilder had found the torque chart from a TR3 3rd edition 6 th reprint ( I think) workshop manual which I became aware of last year. after Lionel from Aussie land sent me a screenshot of his manual ( manufacturer revision for export models). It shows the 140 lb ft for the pulley but I’d been rebuilding using 120 lbs for years after not finding it shown on any manual I checked. My Stag had 120 lb shown on it’s front pulley from it’s manual with same thread, so I reckoned it was a no brainier.

Mick Richards

Thanks Mick

Engine was rebuilt by Cambridge Motorsport 20 years and 10k miles ago. It's running perfectly apart from the leak. The bike is being a pain in the backside right now so I would prefer to enjoy the TR rather than have both in bits.

Cheers

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When my seal let go it was a lot more than a few drips. Fortunately, as I was coming back from a run and on entering the workshop. I had a great deal of difficulty getting the pulley off. This wasn't helped by the fact that I believe it had been forced on ! I had the front of the car off and just as well to have access.

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Guess it is one of those choice things.. doesn't look like it is leaking that much. you could leave it runing for 5 mins and measure how much. If you are not embarking on a transcontinental run then I personally would not worry, just monitor.

I ran an Elan that had an oil leak from the same place. Decided to replace it when it drew a crowd at the Lotus parts fair in Stoneleigh. Someone commented that "The slick under the car was so large Greenpeace had been alerted in case seabirds needed rescuing!"

As it is, even without leaks I am not allowed to park my old cars on my mother-in-law's brick paved drive :mellow:

Tim

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I was teased once that Moss USA considered introducing a new accessory for MX5 owners

A plastic oil slick to throw under the car to give the illusion of a British Classic.

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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2 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

I was teased once that Moss USA considered introducing a new accessory for MX5 owners

A plastic oil slick to throw under the car to give the illusion of a British Classic.

 

 

Maybe they could sell a personality or some charisma to MX-5 owners.

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6 minutes ago, David Owen said:

 

 

Maybe they could sell a personality or some charisma to MX-5 owners.

I’ll tell my daughter that.   She had an MX5 and is now keen to drive my TR.  I am still steeling my nerves for her first ‘go’ driving the TR, I have warned her how different it is to a modern car.

Peter W

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14 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

I’ll tell my daughter that.   She had an MX5 and is now keen to drive my TR.  I am still steeling my nerves for her first ‘go’ driving the TR, I have warned her how different it is to a modern car.

Peter W

Go karting is a good lead in.

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5 hours ago, Tim D. said:

Guess it is one of those choice things.. doesn't look like it is leaking that much. you could leave it runing for 5 mins and measure how much. If you are not embarking on a transcontinental run then I personally would not worry, just monitor.

I ran an Elan that had an oil leak from the same place. Decided to replace it when it drew a crowd at the Lotus parts fair in Stoneleigh. Someone commented that "The slick under the car was so large Greenpeace had been alerted in case seabirds needed rescuing!"

As it is, even without leaks I am not allowed to park my old cars on my mother-in-law's brick paved drive :mellow:

Tim

Thanks. Just a few drops for now, nothing more.

I do push the car quite hard and do lots of short trips but surprised to see only 22mpg on last tank as that included a 120mi run on open roads. 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Down to 16.5 mpg :(

Mostly short trips (4-10mi), no hills and hooning it a bit but not exactly pedal to the metal either 

Carbs set up with colortune, plugs are a good colour, no fuel leaks that I can see... 

Any ideas? 

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29 minutes ago, EliTR6 said:

Down to 16.5 mpg :(

Mostly short trips (4-10mi), no hills and hooning it a bit but not exactly pedal to the metal either 

Carbs set up with colortune, plugs are a good colour, no fuel leaks that I can see... 

Any ideas? 

Stronger throttle return spring! ;):lol::lol::lol:

Stuart.

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2 hours ago, stuart said:

Stronger throttle return spring! ;):lol::lol::lol:

Stuart.

:D

Does the mpg sound awfully low or is it line with spirited driving on short trips? 

Car has always felt fast, I'm mostly between 2.5 and 3k rpm, od 3rd on short straights to stay in the power band. 

Supposedly 2.2l with mild fast road cam, petronix ignition, hs6s with k&ns and (from memory) TW needles, electric fan (no mechanical one), alternator, big bore exhaust with sports manifold...  

Plugs (bp6) were fine last time I checked, maybe mixture even looking a bit lean or plugs a tad too hot. 

Spare wheel in the garage, no tools nor liquids to speak of, lighter seats than the originals, no sidescreens but windscreen still fitted

Temperature and oil pressure are great 

Edited by EliTR6
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Probably about right on short trips if your using it fairly hard in between. You obviously have a heavy right foot!

Stuart.

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