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Riders on the storm... My 1956 TR3


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19 hours ago, EliTR6 said:

It unscrewed itself a second time! 

I've found the solution to my fuel sender issues... Fitted a new trip reset! 

PXL-20210507-115821561-MP.jpg

Has your main beam warning light lost the Jewel from the end ?  I noticed it because mine had too and gone missing .  I fitted a blue led bulb and it is super now with a  bright spot of blue light.

Ralph.

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If you can wrangle a length of cord or wire down and under the bottom (layshaft) gears and try lifting the gear cluster. Try at each end. If there is any up and down movement the shaft and bearings ha

Hi all, 15 years after buying my TR6, a spitfire, an abandoned TR6 project and many Land Rovers later, I'm finally back in a TR! A 1956 TR3 with a rather flashy colour scheme. A huge thanks

I just need to paint the chassis where its sitting on the lift pads but other than that...  Mission accomplished! 

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Just now, Ralph Whitaker said:

Has your main beam warning light lost the Jewel from the end ?  I noticed it because mine had too and gone missing .  I fitted a blue led bulb and it is super now with a  bright spot of blue light.

Ralph.

Hi Ralph, indeed it has. Still haven't gotten round to fixing it as I rarely use the lights.

We've had a curfew pretty much since I've had the car so I don't drive when it's dark. I've still got UK headlamps too! 

And I have Bob's led sidelights always on as running lights. 

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+1 for Bobs led rear lamp conversion.

Also led front sidelights and sidelamps in headlamps , excellent daylight running lights.

Ralph

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It's raining outside and I had a spare hour to look into the oil drip that has been marking where I park.

PXL-20210508-070327196-MP.jpg

I've now cleaned it up, could be coming from the front crank seal. I'll check after a few days of driving. 

The sump gasket looks like it's disintegrating so I'll pull the sump one of these days and fit a fresh gasket. 

PXL-20210508-071011147.jpg

 

There are also a couple of coolant weeps. The rad rarely needs topping up and the running temp is always fine so I'm inclined to leave them for the time being.

I'm going to put the new colour tunes to good use this afternoon. The front plugs are pitch black ! 

Edited by EliTR6
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Although nothing is easy to get at on a TR, at least the front oil seal is easier than the rear one,

Ralph

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9 hours ago, EliTR6 said:

It's raining outside and I had a spare hour to look into the oil drip that has been marking where I park.

PXL-20210508-070327196-MP.jpg

I've now cleaned it up, could be coming from the front crank seal. I'll check after a few days of driving. 

The sump gasket looks like it's disintegrating so I'll pull the sump one of these days and fit a fresh gasket. 

PXL-20210508-071011147.jpg

 

There are also a couple of coolant weeps. The rad rarely needs topping up and the running temp is always fine so I'm inclined to leave them for the time being.

I'm going to put the new colour tunes to good use this afternoon. The front plugs are pitch black ! 

Have fun with the front engine seal.

You have, what looks like a MGB crank pulley.  The seal fitted in the front cover may or may not be an original TR item (Triumph 104662) when a sleeve is fitted or if there is no sleeve over the MG pulley seal area Payen NA298.

Peter W

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Thanks Peter and John 

120mi drive today and the leak is visible but not too bad (yet!) judging by the small number of drops under the car 

Hopefully a job that can wait until winter 

PXL-20210512-113004005.jpg

 

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7 hours ago, EliTR6 said:

Thanks Peter and John 

120mi drive today and the leak is visible but not too bad (yet!) judging by the small number of drops under the car 

Hopefully a job that can wait until winter 

PXL-20210512-113004005.jpg

 

If challenged claim it is like an animal and just scent marking its territory.

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Getting into my spark plug reading here 

PXL-20210513-112446505.jpg

I was worried I had set it too lean with the colortune but timing and mixture look OK to me.  

I'm a bit concerned about little shiny deposits on number one. Had a second or two of dieseling after yesterday's long run.

I don't have a magnifying glass but here's the best I could do with my phone 

PXL-20210513-112710278-2.jpg

 

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i wouldn't worry about the plugs or your settings Eli

 

H

Edited by Hamish
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I would be very happy with those plugs, colour looks spot on to me and even across all 4.

Ralph

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Thanks chaps

Getting a bit paranoid after reading stories of holed pistons on bikes due to weak mixture, lugging the engine, etc.

Learning a lot though! Just had the gearbox out to change the gbox sprocket out so I'm now proficient in primary chain and clutch adjustment :D

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11 minutes ago, EliTR6 said:

Thanks chaps

Learning a lot though! Just had the gearbox out to change the gbox sprocket out so I'm now proficient in primary chain and clutch adjustment :D

Must be a very early TR to be chain drive. 
(to a separate gearbox ?!?)

:D  :ph34r:

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44 minutes ago, EliTR6 said:

I'm thinking of upgrading it to belt drive with DAF running gear ;)

sound like a plan.

and different to the MX5 box conversion that just seems too easy !!!!:o        not !

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3 hours ago, rcreweread said:

Then at least the little one will be able to see where you are going as you can go just as fast in reverse, or so I believe - you may not be able to, though !:o

cheers Rich

that's the italian war time export version i am lead to believe

or was the just the tanks

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1 hour ago, EliTR6 said:

Is the front oil seal something that can be done over a couple of evenings or is it more involved? 

If changing the oil seal is all you want to do then ‘yes’

It is finding the chain tensioner is broken or badly worn and not having a spare or the pulley has a groove where the seal goes and needs a speedi sleeve that will delay the job.

The hassle will be getting the crank pulley bolt undone and then re torqued whilst working upside down avoiding scraping a hole in the radiator.

Cheers

Peter W

 

 

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5 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

If changing the oil seal is all you want to do then ‘yes’

It is finding the chain tensioner is broken or badly worn and not having a spare or the pulley has a groove where the seal goes and needs a speedi sleeve that will delay the job.

The hassle will be getting the crank pulley bolt undone and then re torqued whilst working upside down avoiding scraping a hole in the radiator.

Cheers

Peter W

 

 

Thanks Peter 

I was thinking front apron off and radiator out to have more room to work with. 

Engine has 30 years but only 10k miles on it so chain should be OK 

Eli 

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Remember front pulley torque is at least 120 lb ft to tighten.

Mick Richards

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