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Riders on the storm... My 1956 TR3


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Well done that man

youll be in the tr pit crew next season. 
 

hope it goes back as easily as it came out. 
 

h

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If you can wrangle a length of cord or wire down and under the bottom (layshaft) gears and try lifting the gear cluster. Try at each end. If there is any up and down movement the shaft and bearings ha

Hi all, 15 years after buying my TR6, a spitfire, an abandoned TR6 project and many Land Rovers later, I'm finally back in a TR! A 1956 TR3 with a rather flashy colour scheme. A huge thanks

I just need to paint the chassis where its sitting on the lift pads but other than that...  Mission accomplished! 

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  • 5 weeks later...

Hi all 

I've been busy with Will, work and the new bike so the TR has been patiently sitting on axle stands waiting for a gearbox transplant. 

Good news : the supplier has found the fault (od internal plates not lining up and a cracked solenoid bracket) and the box should arrive back in France imminently.

I've been meaning to tidy up and few small areas on the car. The spare wheel panel is one of them. 

I still haven't been able to find a replacement plug for my rear diff with its Lockheed cover. 

It appears to be out of stock everywhere. Part number 62058. 

Revington say its a 7/8" straight thread, so that would make it bspp? And is G7/8 the same thing? 

I have spent hours poring over the Internet and still haven't been able to find a suitable plug. 

Any ideas? Thanks! 

 

 

 

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Hi Eli,

I had a similar problem with my sump drain plug, I had acquired a replacement sump (my existing one had been cracked and brazed and I didn't trust the repair) and it had a parallel threaded boss.  All the plugs offered by the usual culprits were taper thread (I still have a couple somewhere) and I ended up buying a brass one with a parallel thread from a plumbing supplier.

Rgds Ian

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11 hours ago, EliTR6 said:

Hi all 

I've been busy with Will, work and the new bike so the TR has been patiently sitting on axle stands waiting for a gearbox transplant. 

Good news : the supplier has found the fault (od internal plates not lining up and a cracked solenoid bracket) and the box should arrive back in France imminently.

I've been meaning to tidy up and few small areas on the car. The spare wheel panel is one of them. 

I still haven't been able to find a replacement plug for my rear diff with its Lockheed cover. 

It appears to be out of stock everywhere. Part number 62058. 

Revington say its a 7/8" straight thread, so that would make it bspp? And is G7/8 the same thing? 

I have spent hours poring over the Internet and still haven't been able to find a suitable plug. 

Any ideas? Thanks! 

 

 

 

As far as I know, G-thread is a straight thread

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BSPP is parallel male and female. BSPT or Gas or G depending on which industry you work in is parallel female into which the tapered male fits. 
Don’t get confused by the measurements as the sizing is based on the bore of a steel pipe onto which the thread can be cut, so the 3/8” BSP threads commonly used on TRs are actually 0.656” diameter. 

Like most imperial systems from the steam age it’s clear as mud :-)

Edited by Drewmotty
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On 11/17/2020 at 8:57 PM, EliTR6 said:

Thanks Dan. I've put a bid in, let's see what happens. Its the correct plug in any case! 

I'm even more confused about thread sizes now :blink:

BSP catches out a lot of folk. I recently bought a new radiator drain tap for the TR from a supplier who described it as 1/2 inch bsp . I knew it wasn`t and pointed out that it would be over 3/4 inch diameter if that were the case.

Ralph

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4 hours ago, EliTR6 said:

Bought some safety wire pliers, should come in handy for the bike. 

16059530923712.jpg

Turn that twisted wire end back on itself so you do not tear the skin off the back of your hand when you go anywhere near it.

Peter W

image.png.7797c67fd342c9d586076a3b45c8c98d.png

 

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4 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Turn that twisted wire end back on itself so you do not tear the skin off the back of your hand when you go anywhere near it.

Peter W

image.png.7797c67fd342c9d586076a3b45c8c98d.png

 

Thanks Peter. That is very neat! 

Took an hour to get to this stage, still 5mm to go but the hard part is over 

160598643797849.jpg

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Thanks Bob 

Can't figure out why the photos are always sideways 

Everything but the prop is bolted in and the box is full of clean but stinky 75w80 GL4 as I only had 1.5l litres left of dynolite 40 and the box capacity should be 2l. 

I'll give it a whirl on axle stands tomorrow after work and all being well, test drive Tuesday! 

 

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1 hour ago, EliTR6 said:

Thanks Bob 

Can't figure out why the photos are always sideways 

Everything but the prop is bolted in and the box is full of clean but stinky 75w80 GL4 as I only had 1.5l litres left of dynolite 40 and the box capacity should be 2l. 

I'll give it a whirl on axle stands tomorrow after work and all being well, test drive Tuesday! 

 

B*ll*cks. Looks like the 75w80 has friction modifier additives. 

Should I drain it and refill with some 80w90 I've got on hand?  It's confusingly labelled GL4 and GL5. 

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Eli,  All the boooks say you don't want any friction modifiers in your overdrive oil.  I would be inclined to remove it and replace with straight 40 grade gear oil.

Having said that, when I originally rebuilt my car and following a search of the forum for recommendations, I filled the box and overdrive with Halfords Classic 20/50.  A few years later when I changed the oil I used Penrite GB40 based on recommendations received in the interim.  I never had any problems when running with the 20/50 oil, the overdrive was a smooth as silk and again I have never had problems with the GB40.

I think its a bit like never using synthetic olis in an LSD, they are too slippery

Rgds Ian

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Like Ian I ran for a couple of years on 20W50 engine oil, but bowed under forum pressure to switch to Penrite 40 Gearbox oil. Can't say I've noticed any difference. I do think GL4 or GL5 is not a good idea if you have overdrive.

Bob.

P.S.

To rotate photos I just save image to my desktop (windows 7) open it with windows photo viewer, rotate it, & exit, then post it back on the forum.

 

Edited by Lebro
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Like Bob I used 20/50 for 20+ years but went over to Castrol ST90 for A type od 4 synchro gearbox some 10 years back. https://www.wilcodirect.co.uk/product/classic-car-care/castrol-st90-1l-bc-1803-7199-1/BC-1803-7199-1
 

Peter W

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Ian, Bob and Peter thank you all for your wise words. 

I'm fed up with paying extortionate shipping for the rarer oils and French versions of halfords don't cater for classics at all. 

I've drained the box and filled with 20w50. Will drain and refill a 2nd time after a few miles to flush all the nasty oil out. 

Overdrive drain plug had been tightened by a gorilla, I almost broke my finger when the tool slipped off. 

A great waste of an hour! 

Edited by EliTR6
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On 11/22/2020 at 8:15 PM, EliTR6 said:

Ian, Bob and Peter thank you all for your wise words. 

I'm fed up with paying extortionate shipping for the rarer oils and French versions of halfords don't cater for classics at all. 

I've drained the box and filled with 20w50. Will drain and refill a 2nd time after a few miles to flush all the nasty oil out. 

Overdrive drain plug had been tightened by a gorilla, I almost broke my finger when the tool slipped off. 

A great waste of an hour! 

Eli

Have you tried these guys, I have used them quite a bit in the past. They used to attend quite a few Bourse so you could pick up the oil in person if you pre-order

https://www.millersoils.fr/

 

cheers

Alan

Edited by Kiwifrog
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I stopped using Millers 20/50 Oils when they upped the price to greater heights than I was willing to pay - I used to buy it when on visits to UK, but that has stopped now of course. 
At 35€ for 5 litres they have become reasonable again, but wait until you get delivery costs included...

I have tried to use French oils said to be adapted to older engine use but my efforts have been negated by their refusal to communicate the zddp contents.

james

 

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Thanks Alan and James. Millers could be a good option once I get a bit more organised. 

Right now it's a case of using up whatever I have in the shed. 

Got the land rover, the bike and the tr3. 80w90 GL4 should be fine for all 3, and 20w50 for the engines.

Had a 40mi round trip on the bike today. Cold but great fun. I don't ride it nearly as fast as I drive the tr3 which surprised me. No oil pressure gauge, no oil warning light, no temp gauge. As basic as it gets!

20201124_172518-jpg.741110

Work on the tr3 has been pushed back to this weekend and I'm feeling confident it will be ready to wake up my wife come Monday morning. 

Edited by EliTR6
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20L of Millers 20w50 arrived yesterday, it should be enough to last me the next 12 months.

After a successful test with the prop disconnected a few days ago, today was time to try on the road. 

It was an absolute pig today start, and backfired a few times. The tank is clean but petrol level is quite low so could be dirt or just the humidity and cold. I'll fill up with fresh petrol this week, the last fill-up was maybe 3 months ago. 

Choke cable doesn't lock any more so need to filch a clothes peg for the next run. 

The od works well with an immediate kick so I'll be extra careful switching in and out. 

Getting there...

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